Sheki, Azerbaijan

Independent Azerbaijan...

2012-01-20T00:52:00.003+04:00

Another year has passed. Year when nature, economies and politics lived through a lot of turbulence. Years can be different but wishes remain the same: health, peace , love and wealth.

Azerbaijan had a relatively stable year. Today in the new year on 20 January we remember victims of independence. In life very few things are straightforward. One of them is that most of people would wish to be free as much as possible in their decisions. The same is true about Azerbaijanis. You would agree that in life there are very few people that would think about others as much as they would think about themselves. Maybe parents, not of all them either. Nobody is perfect you might say. Exactly. Who would expect empires to be perfect and think about the countries they conquered as much as about their own interests. Probably this never happened.

Historically Azerbaijan was always the target for empires and independence is almost a luxury for our young republic...

In 1990 our family lived in Poland. I remember our conversation with dad when he said that there is a risk that Soviet army would enter Azerbaijan. "Anything can happen" he said "they might close the borders and we might not be able to go back home for awhile. I suggest we go back home now without delay." (I don't think my parents could imagine their life without Sheki). We returned to Baku early January and Soviet troops entered the city on 19 January.

That was it. There was no going back to Soviet regime.

My older son is almost six now and he loves travelling with his parents and grannies and loves travelling back home. He lives in the country where he can travel and live wherever he wants. Probably by the time he grows up it would be hard for him to believe that there could be more restrictions than technicalities to travel and live wherever one chooses...There is only one future for Azerbaijan that he and everyone else will witness and that is independent Azerbaijan.

Today Azerbaijanis mourn for victims and not only of January 1990 but for all who became victims for independence, freedom and well being of their motherland...Let they rest in peace...

My earlier posts on the date can be read here and here.

Winter in Sheki...

2011-11-30T01:18:00.012+04:00

I rarely travel to Sheki in winter...probably because southern by nature I prefer travelling mostly when its warmer...nevertheless there is nothing more refreshing than awakening breath of mountains when it's cold. I try calling my relatives during the breaks of my routine and it is interesting to hear the same stories but in different manner depending who I am talking to. If I am talking to one of ever cheerful relatives I hear "you should see the beauty of our garden, snowflakes are huge and the air is so crispy; well yes the roads are frozen so are the pipes but never mind things will be all right..." and then I hear from another person who is almost always a step away from feeling depressed "oh, everything is frozen, so depressing, cold, winter is unbelievable this year, electricity was out for a while, I wish we were somewhere else..." I hang up and I am thinking how almost the same things make different people feel differently...certainly at the end of the day as they say it is not only the weather that affects our mood but probably our inner "weather" affects how we see things out of the window as well...

Sharing with you my photos that I took in Sheki during the season that might appear cold and gray but which at the same time has the weather that can awake one's mind and soul...

Talking about the weather...

2011-11-25T02:11:00.013+04:00

Haven't been blogging for ages...feels awful...but fortunately was busy with good things and hope to be able to write more again...

Its late November and Baku witnessed snow already twice...this is very unusual for Baku since usually we would have a day or two of snow sometime in February and that would be it...not quite sure what snowing in November would bring for the rest of winter and so on but it inspired me to write about it today...The thing is that just when I was going to mention again that we like boasting here that modest in size country accommodates nine climate zones out of eleven I realised that I mentioned about it in my different earlier posts here here here and here :))) I guess thats already quite few :) the reason why I thought about this again is that not only in the country but even in our capital yesterday we had almost no snow in one part, mild snow in another and real snowfall in its higher parts...this must be quite normal but again made me think that its kind of interesting... I am sharing with you the photo that I took in the morning when walking to the office in Baku as well as the photo that was taken also today but in Qabala, city in the north part of the country. There is something amazing about walking in the snow...Wishing you an amazing weekend...)

In Baku this morning...

In Qabala today...courtesy of Farid Novruzi...

Exploring more of Azerbaijan...Nakhchivan...

2011-10-08T02:08:00.019+05:00

Did it ever happen to you that when you saw pictures of some place in some magazine it was hard for you to believe that the places pictured do really exist...

When a while ago I saw pictures of "Salt Mountain" retreat I must confess it was hard for me to believe that the place would be exactly like on the pictures...just like the name of ancient fortress in Sheki says "Come and See" I could only believe it once I would personally see it (human nature...)

Recently I visited Nakhchivan...another very rich area of Azerbaijan. One of Nakhchivan's treasures is its "Salt Mountain". This is a unique place created by miracles of nature and care of people for those that suffer from breathing problems to find relief...

Sharing with you some photos...I hope they would be convincing enough although seeing and experiencing "Salt Mountain" in real is much better...

the place looks very modest from outside...this makes what you see inside even more impressive...

one of the pathways of retreat that you find yourself on soon after you start going into the mountain...

there are "rooms" to stay overnight or during the time of treatment...

it is also possible just to walk, sit on the benches or even have a snack...

healing miracle of salt...salty walls of salty mountain...I tasted...the walls taste salty indeed...

healing miracle of salt...salty walls of salty mountain...
healing miracles of these mountains were discovered in ancient times...

these mountains are not green and fluffy...they have beauty and miracle of their own...

Exploring more of Azerbaijan...somewhere between Sheki and Qakh...

2011-09-24T17:39:00.004+05:00

This summer I realized that the word “explore” comes into my mind quite often. I was mostly linking that word to traveling but it applies to everything. I was thinking that although I live on Absheron I have explored quite little of it…that although every summer I travel to Sheki I have explored little if any of its villages. Then I started thinking about this in Azeri because “explore” was coming to my mind only in English if you know what I mean. I started to think of the best word in Azeri that would convey what I mean by it in this context…I thought of “kəşf etmək, araşdırmaq, tədqiq etmək”....tried to explain to myself why I am thinking about this in English...
At some point in life exploring might seem/become quite a luxury…exploring would have to be joint if you have children since you know that they love spending their time with you regardless what you do (especially if you are exploring…). This year we tried to do a little bit of exploring. We didn’t locate everything we wanted; it wasn’t as comfortable as it could be since our little one is too young (less than two years old) but it gave a lot of food for eyes and thought about how much is out there to explore…and not only geographically...
sharing with you some photos with more to come...

on the way to Sheki...many villages lying in the feet of the mountaints...

view up from the hill between Sheki and Qakh...
fluffy mountains of Qakh...

my posts of four (!) years ago when we visited Qakh that is neighbouring Sheki for the first time can be read here and here.

20 September - Oil Workers Day in Azerbaijan...

2011-09-20T12:28:00.020+05:00

Just like certain characteristics can determine life pattern of a person, natural resources determine history and very often future of the country. Oil and gas resources of Azerbaijan shaped up its name - Land of Fire...traditions - to name one of the most important that is welcoming of spring in March, Novruz, history - country was constantly invaded and divided and is still in ceasefire situation and welfare - during last ten years economy continued to grow and with new gas reserves more investments are expected...

Behind all aspects of oil exploration and in general everything in life there is a human factor. People - that find, explore and exploit oil and gas fields to name only few expertises.

Today my post is devoted to Oil Workers Day in Azerbaijan. This day is even closer to me because my father, Nadir Qiyasov, is a devoted oilman and I can say a unique geophysicist indeed.

Azerbaijan can boast not only with its oil and gas reserves but what is more important with its professional, highly-skilled, determined, very often self-sacrificing engineers, geologists, geophysicist, drillers and workers without whose joint effort it wouldn't be possible to put together any project of oil and gas exploration. I wish to all our oil workers good health, good, no, excellent working conditions and all the very best!

My last year’s post on Oil Workers Day can be read here.

I found this picture in family archive (and my dad doesn't even know that I am posting it). I love old photos in general...and on this one you can see how oil-men are having one of their heated discussions on oil field. This photo was taken in Soviet times when professionals from all 15 Republics would be doing their best for one big country...many years have passed...my dad is much older now (he is the third one in the middle on the picture) and is much happier to serve his independent country...

End of Ramadan...

2011-09-10T16:11:00.005+05:00

Before I move on to other posts I want to mention that this year's Ramadan ended end August...days in August are long and usually quite hot in Azerbaijan. This year although hot at the beginning weather became milder during the month. Fasting period continued around 16 hours...With this post I want to mention that I hope there were many kind prayers during the month of Ramadan and those who fasted (including my parents) and not only :) will stay in good health to welcome Ramadan in years to come. Posting couple of pictures sent to me by my cousin, Fatima in Sheki from Ramadan feast. People visit each other at the end of Ramadan thus tables in every household in Sheki (and not only) are ready to welcome anyone who knocks on the door.

Be well...

My earlier posts on Ramadan can be read here and here.

Axır Cumay...Axır Cümə...or Last Friday of Ramadan...

2011-08-26T01:57:00.021+05:00

Last Fridays of Ramadan are called Axır Cumay in Sheki. Cümə means Friday in Azeri but since Sheki has quite a strong dialect many words are told differently, the same is with the name of this day. Axır Cumay means last Friday and on last Fridays of Ramadan people in Sheki remember those who unfortunately are not with them any longer and go to cemeteries. In cemeteries people say their prayers or ask Mollahs to say the prayers for them, quite often do some cleaning of grass etc and simply remember.

Today there was a heavy rain in Sheki, nevertheless people paid respect and respected the tradition...

How can one be wiser and kinder if does not try to remember wisdom of the past and people that made past years special. This is something to be passed to children so that they build upon what has already been achieved and don't have to start over...actually quite a number of things are inherited genetically too...there are so many answers in the past...

Today we had a heavy rain in Baku as well...at the same time sun was shining...and it made me think that rain and sun means...yes rainbow...and guess what I raised my eyes to see rainbow above me...it was amazing...I even wanted to say to people around stop, raise your eyes or you will miss the rainbow...but then thought that they wouldn't understand and didn't...but did take photos...not of great quality but still...A friend of mine took a better photo with better view so I am sharing it as well.

Let there always be people around us who are like rainbow in our lives. Either they are with us or not we will always remember their warmth...

Be well...

rainbow...

rainbow not to miss...

courtesy of Vugar Muradov...

Summer motives…

2011-08-06T14:57:00.001+05:00

Paradox of summer is that in parallel of being leisure time it’s also time when graduates are applying to universities. This means a lot of stress for families (and families in Azerbaijan usually love living through the stress together:) and lots of last minute studying and panic by graduates who envy those who are enjoying sun and sea. Usually all relatives are eagerly expecting the results and worry together with families. Independence brought to Azerbaijan equal rights for youngsters to apply to universities they wish. Soviet system rooted corruption to education system when people were divided into those who could “afford” prestigious universities and those that either had their hearts broken cause were not accepted unfairly or would persistently apply year after year until they would break the barricades of system. It’s good to see that education continues to be high on the agenda for many. With borders open many travel to study abroad as well. Things are not perfect but there are almost equal (since there is nothing absolutely equal I am afraid) opportunities out there and this I think is very important. I wish good luck to all and hope they remember that feeling of happiness they have when they reach what they wish. These moments are important to warm ones heart and be a happy person in general!! Happier people happier planet...hopefully )

Today I am posting several photos that would convey a little bit of summer: a photo of the entrance exam atmosphere, photos from International Art Festival “Qız Qalası” that took place this summer again. Here is my last year post on festival with video featuring the event and Baku of course. And photos I took on Caspian with youth getting the most of summer...

expecting examinees...traditionally and historically almost every examinee in Azerbaijan goes to entry exam with one or several family members...photo courtesy of Nazim Dadashov...

International Art Festival “Qız Qalası”...photo courtesy of Tagi Jafarov...

kites of the festival...photo courtesy of Tagi Jafarov...

photo courtesy of Tagi Jafarov...

youth getting the most of summer...

Generous summer...

2011-07-09T10:55:00.016+05:00

Summer for me feels like or wants to feel like one long weekend when only sun, sea, smiles and good mood should happen to people. Everything else feels very unnatural and inharmonious…
Let’s talk about food today...

Fruits and vegetables seem to rush to reach our tables in summer (or maybe that’s merchants facilitating the process…). We have almost left behind here season of mulberries and cherries and now apricots are having their say before melons and watermelons would be at their peak. I must admit I admire richness and generosity of nature and those who grow fruits and vegetables for people to enjoy. Unfortunately the theme of organic and not really organic has reached Azerbaijan as well and it’s getting more difficult to trust honesty of those who consider this as “nothing personal, but business”. I am afraid they forget that “what goes around comes around”…the proverb with the same hints and meaning is excellent in Azeri; it says “nə tökərsən aşına, o da çıxar qaşığına” that translates roughly as “you would get in your spoon whatever you have put in your soup”. Thus fruits and vegetables from gardens of our regions and Baku are real treasure that we all cherish nowadays.

Today I am also sharing with you pictures of another miracle: cactus that is flowering now in our garden. Land of Absheron is dry in summer, sun is hot and air is humid thus all superb for cactuses to grow. Caught this bee admiring cactus' flowers…while I was admiring them both...

Abricots having their say in our garden...

cactus...thorny but flowering...busy bee...
My earlier posts on mulberries and watermelons can be read here...

Azerbaijan and Italy...

2011-06-19T01:31:00.006+05:00

There must be people that enjoy cool or even cold weather and there are the ones that love heat or maybe better warmth of generous Sun...

We in Azerbaijan enjoy sun during most months of the year…cold weather is something that I can’t really enjoy, warmth - this is what I am looking forward to during mild winter in Azerbaijan…

Earlier this month we had a trip to Italy. Azerbaijan is for the third time participating in Venice Biennale and we of course traveled to support the artists and organizers and enjoy Biennale overall.

Each trip brings different thoughts and this time I was thinking that Italy and Azerbaijan have many things in common. Both are passionate about music, art, beauty, good food, easily loose temper, enjoy noisy family affairs, can leave messages on reception like “will be back soon….”, have the notion like as it says in “Eat, Pray, Love” “the pleasure or enjoyment of not doing anything”…that means relaxing a bit longer and more often than people of north if I may say…without feeling self-conscious…All these characters and southern temperament can have many positive and not only results…That is the effect of Sun ))…genetically Sun warmed up blood of southern people and people are born with warm hearts and high temper…talking louder and approaching closer...eating more and driving crazier…that is nature and it usually takes over…modern people are adapting their temper and nature and people in the regions like in mountainous Sheki are shy and much quieter anyway…

Italy has had rich history and invites everyone to Venice to enjoy biennale of modern art. It is hard to say if people enjoy modern art or grandness of the past more. History will say its word about modern art but beauty, uniqueness and value of historic places and art are indisputable…

This year Italy celebrated 150th anniversary of the country’s unification. Azerbaijan feels for it since by XVIII century Azerbaijan itself consisted of a few independent Khanliqs (principalities). In 1828 per so called Turkmenchay Peace Treaty Azerbaijan was divided between Russian Empire and Persia. It was possible to establish Democratic Republic in 1918 only and just for two years. Azerbaijan regained its independence back in 1991.

Thus history, culture and temper of Italy and Azerbaijan somehow echoed for me during this trip and I decided to write this post and share it with you.

On this note I want to wish everyone happy and sunny summer and post two photos one taken inside Sheki Khan Sarayi in Sheki and one in Duomo in Milan. Similar things bring admiration, enjoyment and happiness to people no matter location, race or religion…as long as there is peace and financial ability to think about something more than food and shelter…

Inside Duomo, Milan...

Inside Sheki Khan Palace, Sheki...

28 May - Republic Day in Azerbaijan

2011-05-28T17:08:00.008+05:00

Just like any child who wants to get independent and do everything as he considers appropriate starting well once he/she is one year old or maybe earlier, historically every nation struggled for its independence. Just like in communities one can sometimes witness that one bullies the other and doesn't really strive for the best of all but mainly dear self, in empires as well smaller nations suffer and as a result of constant and continuous undermining live through risks of losing its self-esteem, pride and belief in its future. Thus when in 1920, 2 year old Republic of Azerbaijan was invaded by Soviet Army (I am mentioning only modern history) and for more than 70 years had a brainwashing that it is not good enough or intelligent or capable enough (with thousands repressed and frightened) to represent itself, its history, culture and development, it would naturally take a while for young Republic to regain its confidence, appreciation and love towards its essence...

28 May is the Republic Day in Azerbaijan. This year we see many more young people carrying proudly the flag and celebrating the holiday. Our young Republic just like a growing child is getting more confident with more knowledge, new skills and every new achievement. Azerbaijan longed to represent itself, to talk about itself independently not just listening as an observer how someone else would do it on its behalf...

In 2012 Azerbaijan as the winner of Eurovision 2011 will host the contest in Baku. In Azerbaijan when someone visits the other's home the first thing he/she hears would be "Xoş gəlmisiniz" what is translated as "Welcome" - meaning - welcome to my home...This is said no matter how often one visits the other. Thus we say to Europe "Welcome to Azerbaijan" - land of fire, music, hospitality and joy, oriental wisdom, tolerance and kindness…(sorry but can't get modest today...only praise comes into my mind :))

With best wishes from Azerbaijan...be well...

My earlier posts on 28 May can be read as follows (yr. 2008, yr. 2009, yr. 2010).

9th of May - Victory Day in Azerbaijan...our Nurmammad baba...

2011-05-14T17:59:00.021+05:00

Recently I was at friend’s birthday party where grandfather of the family was also present.

"Nurmammad Ahmadov was born in 1925 in Sheki. In 1942 his birth certificate was torn apart and birth date re-registered as 1924 so that he would be grown enough to go to war"...At that war as all other young people he lost his youth…he also had a severe injury on his hands. What he did not lose is his faith and love towards humanity and life.

He said that for victory day young journalists in Sheki came for an interview and he still wasn’t able to talk without tears…he was telling that journalist girl hugged him and kissed him asking not to cry…"they reached Stavropolskiy kray and next task was to free the village. They moved in the forest through swamp for two days. Frost reached -32° Celcius at night. His hands and feet got frozen. He lost his fingers on right hand and left hand fingers were also damaged harshly."

Nurmammad baba (baba means grandfather in Azeri) is 86 now and is one of the most literate company one could find…he would recite you poems and bring quotes from books of various authors in most different subjects...his eyes don’t let him read that much now but passion while reciting reveals his thirst for literature…His passion is not only literature but also checkers and chess. "After rehabilitation in the hospital and back in Sheki he rewrote twice the books of Azeri classic M. S. Ordubadi "Sword and Pen" and Russian writer V. M. Kojevnikov "Sword and Shield" in order to learn writing with his left hand. After he graduated from Economics University with honors and became a successful professional in his field. He also participated in Republic checker championship in 1962 and got the title of "Candidate Master". In 1965 in tournament organized by capital city of Moscow at that time with participants from Baltic States and three Republics of Caucasus he got the title of "chess master of 1st grade". Nurmammad baba is happy husband, father of three, grandfather of seven and great grandfather of one."

In Azeri we have a wonderful word describing people - “nürani”. This is word that we use about mostly aged people that shine from within…His name is Nurmammad…when he was born his parents must have felt that this “nur” i.e. light that every child is born with would stay with their son for his life time…

War must be the extreme memory that he and many veterans have. To all other events in life they must be approaching with wisdom and tolerance remembering extremes that people and life in general could go to. Nurmammad baba was telling how happy he is for every opportunity of young people, how proud he is for every achievement of everyone and how lucky we are with amazing developments around us. And in all this there was no pathos or patronizing…only wisdom, calmness and love of a humble and again very wise gentleman…

People like Nurmammad baba are gems of not only Sheki or Azerbaijan but I would say of our whole planet…one post is just one post…it’s pity for me to see that knowledge and memory of years are not recorded properly or maybe they are...it’s not like I am following all. In any case I decided to write at least this short note to express even partially my adoration and respect towards Nurmammad baba and to every veteran who played/plays role in bringing peace and wisdom to our lives and planet. God bless…

a bit official photo that doesn't really convey Nurmammad baba's character...once war was over life had a lot to offer to everyone including Nurmammad baba...
P.S. my earlier posts on Victory Day can be read here and here.

May is in the air...

2011-05-07T23:46:00.004+05:00

May has come and nature is continuing to flourish…April has been quite rainy in Baku and Sheki but in May even rain smells spring. Last week I had a very short runaway to Sheki to participate at a family wedding. On my way there I took some photos that I want to share with you today.

Spring is usually short in Azerbaijan and gives in too quickly to warm and after hot summer. Many or I would say most of us are too engaged with everyday routine…At some point when we raise our eyes we notice that many trees have already welcomed spring and are awake and green…and we think to ourselves “when did that happen?...”…this is true for so many things in life…

Stop a minute…Enjoy spring…Enjoy May…

All three photos (except for last fourth one) were taken from car window...I say I was lucky to catch these ))

Stop a minute…Enjoy spring…Enjoy May…

Milli süfrə kvarteti...or...Quartet of Azeri traditional cuisine...

2011-04-24T23:44:00.006+05:00

If/when you travel to Azerbaijan you would notice that when you stop in cafes and restaurants to have a meal, together with starters you would be also offered to have greens that would come next to cheese, cucumber and tomato plate. Greens would include basil, tarragon, mint, coriander and many more depending on season and preference. And then for those who have never been to Azerbaijan before would be amazing to see that people would just pick up greens from the table and eat it…that’s the tradition…now when the world is talking about what is good and healthy no one would question how healthy is to have greens accompanying your lunches and dinners…and our great-grandfathers knew it looooooooooooong ago...
Greens as almost anything else are availabe the whole year but in spring we all here know that they are super natural since its the season...you would even hear people saying that greens are gone wild (göyərti yaman qızışıb)...
Now...when I was putting my younger son to bed I was thinking how to name my this post and this very title came to my mind...I was wrong to think that there are only four plates in the picture...later I saw that there are four plates and bread...this composition is as traditional as it can ever be...Thus although there are five objects but actually "table quartet" would be: cheese, greens, cucumber+tomato and bread...this tastes excellent, believe me )
We in Azerbaijan as I believe anywhere else love food, tasty food...knowledge of what goes well with what is inherited almost with blood). On this theme I wrote before about what goes great with watermelon here.

photo taken back in 2008 in Sheki bazaar waiting for its turn to be posted...generosity of nature is amazing...

as traditional Azeri start for the casual meal as it can ever be...photo taken earlier this week when we stopped for lunch on our way to Sheki...

Spring cleaning...

2011-04-23T00:50:00.009+05:00

I must confess that I re-read my post written in May 2007 now and smiled to first sentence of it) why not, good idea....

Today I am writing the post devoted to “spring cleaning”. I could basically repeat what I wrote in 2007...as things haven’t changed since then…

I spent Novruz holidays in Sheki this year. Again got impressed how most of women are keen to keep their households immaculately clean and even if everything looks perfect still spring deep cleaning is a must.

Although modern technologies are welcome there are things which kind of just can't get any better )…such as…broom....nothing is simple with brooms either...since there is "tuğ" (which is soft broom works great indoors and with dust) there is "süpürgə" which is harsh broom works great with carpets or better outdoors and there is another type of "süpürgə" with which you can even broom your garden. And I must mention that everything is made from a natural material and this knowledge comes from ancestors…

When I got acquainted with Feng shui and read about keeping ones living environment clean I caught myself thinking that Sheki people (and not only) inherit Feng shui habits with their upbringing…since spring cleaning is just another norm be it in Sheki be it in Feng shui…

Couple of photos...

"brushed" saffron at background...

"broomed" garden in Sheki awaiting spring...
"broomed" garden in Sheki awaiting spring...II

brooms rushing to the market...courtesy of Far Fario...

everyone can find THE broom for her household...I took this photo in 2007! in Sheki bazaar to share it with you only now...)

31st of March - Remembrance Day in Azerbaijan...

2011-03-31T23:59:00.011+05:00

Call me subjective but Azerbaijan is about European Orient, South, music, poetry, dance, art, leisure, beauty, literature, nature...anything beautiful…its not about violence and aggression…Albeit historically it suffered from aggression…unfortunately due to many reasons many times in different dates of its history...31st of March is the date that Azerbaijan remembers as the date of genocide and terrorism against its people...

This day is also birthday of Rafig Babayev. Famous pianist and jazz composer…Maybe its not the right word but ironically his birthday coincides with remembrance day…and Rafig Babayev tragically died at terrorist tube explosion in Baku in 1994 (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rafig_Babayev)…Person of art who was all about what Azerbaijan is about suffered from aggression…this is another example in Azeri history and similar examples can be found in many pages of our history…

Azerbaijan is learning to remember its past, build its present and have a strategy for future...

Be well...

Novruz_Fire Tuesday...

2011-03-01T17:24:00.020+04:00

First of March this year for us here in Azerbaijan was not only to enjoy as first date of approaching spring but also as second Tuesday of Novruz, so called Fire Tuesday. Fire does not leave anyone indifferent on this land of fire - Azerbaijan...

Let me take here a sudden turn and advise that although this post is devoted to second Tuesday of Novruz I am posting a picture...no...not of a fire...

Below picture was taken by photographer Asim Talib in 1982! in Kalbadjar region of Azerbaijan which is currently under occupation... I love this photo very much and was looking for opportunity to share it with you...Who would know, understand and appreciate all traditions if not older men and women that bring them to us - younger generations...The way they dress, behave, expressions they use, stories they tell are precious...Today when remembering this ancient tradition of celebrating Tuesdays of Novruz I think it would be the right time to thank once more and wish good health to all old people...Who if not them understand and cherish the beauty of another spring to come...

My year 2009 post on fire Tuesday can be read here.

Khojali (Xocalı) massacre...25-26 February 1992...

2011-02-26T02:00:00.002+04:00

I have written posts on Khojali Genocide in 2010 and 2009 (second post in 2009). This year I am not writing anything but sharing with you the video that reminds us about the tragedy and people that lost their dear ones. Let victims rest in peace...Let wisdom and humanity rule the world...and if not let there always be a way to stand for ones rights and safety...a peaceful way I hope...and if not...........................................................................................

Novruz_Water Tuesday

2011-02-22T01:28:00.002+04:00

Today Azerbaijan and not only but all who are celebrating Novruz greeted "water" Tuesday. Waters of nature woke up and are ready to welcome spring!

Unfortunately I am not able to write a nice post on this today thus would have to give links to my posts in 2010 and 2009.

Treasures of Azerbaijan - Uzeyir Hajibeyov, Arshin Mal Alan, Marionette Theatre...

2011-02-12T02:24:00.011+04:00

Today again I am writing one of those posts when I want to mention names and facts too grand for any post.

Let me start from remembering one of the most distinct talents of Azerbaijan, composer, conductor, publicist, playwright, teacher, translator and social figure, Uzeyir Hajibeyov (1885 – 1948). To name only few achievements Uzeyir Hajibeyov is known as first Muslim author of an opera, composer of the music for the national anthem of Azerbaijan and composer of 7 operas and 3 musical comedies.

Today I want to mention one of musical comedies of Uzeyir Hajibeyov, Arshin Mal Alan ("The Cloth Peddler"). In 2013 Azerbaijan will celebrate 100th anniversary of this beloved comedy. Just like with many other things in life for those who are not aware of history, culture and traditions of Azerbaijan it could be difficult to understand and appreciate the comedy. Music of course is something that doesn’t need to be explained or understood but insight into Azeri culture and history would definitely help in enjoying this operetta to the fullest. Here is the link with its short description.

I am lucky to meet many interesting people on my path. One of them is the founder of Azerbaijan marionette theater, Tarlan Qorchu whose theatre staged Arshin Mal Alan. Beautiful perfectly done marionettes and 13 actors behind the scene and gorgeous music performed by talented artists result in unforgettable performance. This effect is strengthened by miniature stage and the way the viewers are placed. Kids sit on eastern carpets in front of the stage and adults at the back. Atmosphere is magnificent. Theatre often travels and represents Azerbaijan culture abroad and occasionally brings joy to local fans.

Performance and should I say experience, Arshin Mal Alan inspired me to write this post. Lower are some photos that will tell you a bit more. Definitely another must see!

photo taken on mobile...kids sitting on the carpet waiting for performance...to sweeten the expectation personnel surprised each with a lollipop...kids were extremely happy :)

photos lower are courtesy of İÇƏRİ ŞƏHƏR - LIVING HISTORY.

decoration inspired by Sheki Khan Palace? :)

national trio...

there is even a fountain...

actors behind the scene...

Mattresses and quilts...or...yorğan, döşək...

2011-02-05T10:56:00.028+04:00

Today I am writing about something what continues to be a tradition for many regions including Sheki in Azerbaijan but less and less popular in capital...I will be talking about mattresses and quilts...maybe this sounds strange in English but for any Azeri equal phrase in Azeri sounds very familiar...i.e. yorğan, döşək...

Historically and traditioanally it used to be and continues to be the case for many that an important part of bride's dowry would be mattresses and quilts that she would take with her to new family...there would be two mattresses for master bed, mattresses as a present for her in-laws, couple of mattresses for potential guests and obviously the same number of quilts and even more number of pillows...I should mention right away that all would be usually prepared from sheep wool (needless to say that it involves a lot of labour to clean and bring wool to condition that would be approved by experienced grannies of the family), goose feathers and involve purchase of appropriate covers (appropriateness depends on many things including taste, image and quality of materials and level of income of course) and then actually making these mattresses, quilts and pillows.

When families have skilled grannies, mothers and aunties everything is prepared in house what gives extra pride and value to this important part of dowry...otherwise making of is outsourced...Since another must of dowry is a big chest then traditionally you would have a chest and then pile of these mattresses, quilts and pillows on it, in Azeri or since I am not really sure about literary Azeri in Sheki dialect this is called yük...Making this pile is also an art I would say because pile that is kind of not simmetric, without matching colours and bent to the left or right is not the pile that sophisticated Sheki women would like to see...this pile is put together with love and care and pillows and mattresses and quilts are used whenever necessary...usually when there are extra guests...Its a particular honour for the guest to be offered a mattress or quilt that newly came with bride's dowry...

In Baku fewer bride's would care to have extra mattress or quilt...everything is mainly bought ready...chests do not match to modern style furnitures...young generation would rarely know how to make these mattresses or quilts anyway so going forward I see this tradition as something else that we would see less and less...

Fortunately we continue to cherish in our family house in Sheki chest left from my granny where we have a neat pile of mattresses and quilts waiting for us...each time when all mattresses and quilts are used up we open the chest with sentimental hope that we would find there something forgotten long ago that would bring memories and sense of our childhood...

bringing wool to required condition requires hard work and patience...usually women get together and wash, dry, make it light and fluffy together...hard work is coupled with talks and tea (of course) and at the end there is super result and great mood of satisfaction...:) making quilt requires skills, ready quilts can become a real piece of art...

this summer in our house in Sheki...we were short of pillows and mom with her sisters made new ones, I asked to pause the process to take a photo for my blog :)...traditionally speaking mother of two should actually take part in this making of pillows process but I can go as far as making tea for those who are heavily involved, interrupt them with taking pictures and entertain them with some chit-chat...love the process! :)

asked my cousin Fatima to send me photos...many older houses in Sheki would have these wardrobes built in to the walls...can be used for many things including extra quilts...
chest, mattresses and quilts...
closer look...

another closer look...

In 2007 I had a post where I put a picture of my older son sitting in my grandma's chest...You can see it here :)...

Everything else that I wanted to say about Khinalig...

2011-01-29T14:53:00.038+04:00

I am still not done with writing about Khinalig...Actually it would be much better if archeologists and scientists studied and wrote about Khinalig...

For some reason when e.g. I visit some European capital and take photos it feels absolutely natural...but when I am somewhere where I think that living conditions are not that developed as where we come from then I don't really feel comfortable making photos...I worry that what if I would annoy, disappoint or offend local people...whether I worried or not of course plenty of photos were taken and then I started talking to local people around...and one woman asked "so did you like Khinalig?"...and I replied: "yes, I liked it very much"...and this is what she told me: "of course you did, Khinalig is a paradise on earth..." and I was worried to take pictures :)...That woman talked to me in Azeri, in Azeri with accent. Among themselves they speak in their own language and one of confident assumptions is that people of Khinalig speak in ancient Aramaic language. I must also say that in regions one meets more people who are looking openly and talking to you from their heart...these sincere conversations among complete strangers mean a world to me...maybe its easier to keep inner beauty when you are so "exposed" to nature...

In Khinalig roof of a neighbour is terrace of the neighbour living higher...not sure if I am able to describe this probably thus would rely on pictures...also roofs used to be/are from natural materials when heating the houses of course is a challenge...specially somewhere so high up...with more income more and more roofs are redone...living standards are improving and characteristic feature is becoming a history...mixed feelings, mixed feelings...

We spent very little time in Khinalig...I came back amused and with lots of questions...sharing with you some photos...click on the pictures to make them bigger...

young woman having a rest on her terrace...roof at the same time...
she greeted me with a smile when I asked to take the photo...

an elderly man looking proudly over Khinalig...traditional roof...see the window and chimney...

heating...

neighbours enjoying sunshine...

evening chit-chat...

loved the house...

old roofs...new roofs...Khinalig is too grand for my camera...or any camera should I say...

Khinalig must be covered with snow at the moment...I am sharing with you photo taken by Ilkin Yagubov who visited Khinalig in January...

my previous post on Khinalig can be read here...

January 20 - black date in modern history of Azerbaijan...

2011-01-20T00:35:00.014+04:00

There is a saying in Azeri "gözümə heç nə görünmür". If you translate this phrase word by word it would say/mean something like "my eyes can see nothing"...what implies that there is something that bothers you so much that your eyes notice nothing else...

Just like when someone gets unhealthy everything else around looses colour and importance...when there is no peace in the country nothing else really matters or brings you joy...

Today is a mourning day in Azerbaijan. 20th of January in 1990 innocent people became victims of politics and Soviet Army. This was how state of emergency was "declared". I just had a thought that probably people couldn't imagine that army where every male citizen had to serve would start shooting at citizens....never underestimate people...never underestimate how far politics can go...

21 years are gone. It is important to remember...so that future generations do not fall into the same traps...May all victims rest in peace...

photo courtesy of Senan Aleskerov...crying mollah...
photo courtesy of Asim Talib..."wounded" ambulance car

my post on 20 January written in 2009...

Travelling to Khinalig...

2011-01-08T17:24:00.019+04:00

Did it ever happen to you that you keep thinking about travelling somewhere and it just doesn't happen? It seems to you that you hear all the time about more people visiting the place but you don't go beyond planning...between my wanting to go to Khinalig and actual impromptu trip I graduated, got married and actually took with me there my almost five year son! Anyway enough about me...

Very first post on this blog talked about the road to Sheki...now road to Khinalig...

More than just pretty nature escorts you all the way...at some places it also boasts how grand and almighty it is...then when you think that you are almost there you find yourself in lowland but lowland on the mountains and you feel like there can't be a further place where people live as there are no villages on your way only nature very high up...then you pass a village and in astonishment you realize that its still not Khinalig you go further and here...I won't be exaggerating if I said that somewhere among the clouds you find village you have been trying to reach...Khinalig (2350 meter high from sea level)...I still haven't educated myself enough....as on how did these people that do not speak Azeri but language of their own (and not any language of ethnic minority but their own language) ended up so far from everyone else just on their own and so high up!!! With no proper road up until couple of years ago...and that's one of the first places to welcome snow...amazing...Road to Khinalig is very picturesque thus devoting this post exclusively to it...

No matter how many pictures I took it seemed to me that beauty still won't be conveyed...even though colours were the ones of winter...autumns and springs must be amazing...yes, must see...

31 December - New Year Holiday and Day of Solidarity of Azerbaijanis around the world...

2011-01-04T01:02:00.024+04:00

Another year is gone and here we have already greeted new year 2011...Wishes do not change from year to year...they stay the same...no matter what year we greet...no matter who, what and where we are...we ask for the same...good health, peace, love, prosperity, happiness, joy...Happy New Year!!!

On 31 December Azerbaijanis also celebrate Day of Solidarity of Azerbaijanis around the world...solidarity is something very simple and very complex...simply talking it is respecting each other by default and greeting with "salam"...and I am not going into complex things today...will keep it simple :) Happy Day of Solidarity!!!

I am posting today two photos that touch my heart very much...my comments to the photos will explain why I am posting them but not other more obvious pictures for New Year and Day of Solidarity!!! Best wishes from Baku!!! Best wishes from Azerbaijan!!!

Azerbaijan is widely known as land of fire...gas, oil, east, south - this list can grow and each word would add some light into "why"s of this country...Picture of "təndir", tandoor. Another symbol, another traditional wealth. When "modern" life came, many households in Azerbaijan rushed to destroy their tandoors...tandoors occupied space and baking bread was quite complicated in this hot and "dangerously looking" by modern standards kind of ovens...and guess what...in a while it was obvious that numerous kinds of breads in endless supermarkets had neither taste or smell of granny's bread...people found themselves asking in restaurants with hope and nostalgia if they had traditional tandoor bread...thus tandoors are back...and actually one can find one in the very centre of Baku in its Old City...for New Year and Day of Solidarity I wish to all of us to have wisdom to be able to keep the balance between new and old, modern and traditional, to appreciate, cherish and respect the past and take it forward to the future...

Below picture inspires me to wish to all for us for New Year and Day of Solidarity to enjoy what we do and respect what others do - no matter what occupation; smile more often and try to keep that smile for longer...and yes...smelling bread would add you extra pleasure...believe me! :)

Last but not least...bread is symbol of prosperity and well-being in Azerbaijan: not to be left on the table if not eaten, if dropped respectfully taken from the floor, never put together with other waste but always separately...(belief says that no respect to bread, no prosperity in households...)...Have a prosperous New Year! :)

photos courtesy of stringer Tagi Jafarov...grateful for his friendship and work...

this is what I wrote about this day in 2008...

Children and peace...

2010-12-18T01:10:00.018+04:00

Last couple of days I have been thinking that there is not much left until year end…everyday routine catches us…and here…days fly away...another year will be gone soon…

Today I want to mention peace…and children...in my post…

Children are future of this planet…it is proven by now that happier childhood means happier adulthood…and happier people mean happier planet…I hope next year brings lots of joy, happiness, laughter and smiles to all children around the world…I hope we adults remember to do our best so that it is the case...its festive season now and hopefully every child will get something as a present…maybe we all can play a role and present something not only to our own children but also to another child in need…I took below pictures in another miraculous place of Azerbaijan in Xinaliq this November…it must be very cold there now…but I hope very much and I am actually sure that these kids we met are happy enjoying warmth of their mothers and households…God bless each and every…

Below picture is not a very good one…but my favourite badge…fellow artist found it while walking in Venice and when saw my excitement gave it to me…I keep it as a great memory…When thinking “make love not war” I don’t only mean wars per se …very often people willingly or unwillingly upset each other with words…I wonder if the ones who upset feel better after…aren’t kinds words of praise and support much better?…last couple of weeks world is obsessed with discussions about who said what about whom…just like kitchen gossip in a bigger scale…come on…

Every child has a right to grow in peace…it is sad that lives of one might become victims of someone else’s politics…we hope and pray for peace in Azerbaijan and everywhere else in the world…although in ceasefire Azerbaijan again had victims this year…May they rest in peace...

I hope for a peaceful year 2011...

Lets get arty...II...Personal exhibition of Teymur Rustamov...

2010-12-05T23:39:00.002+04:00

In Venice there was this slogan that said "I won't make boring art"...boring art? Does that happen? Can be boring for one, special for other...tastes differ as they say...In any case with contemporary art becoming more and more popular for many those who try to see or comprehend meaning hidden behind all! pieces of art things became more complicated...artists refuse to explain or explanations are even more confusing...I deal with this from the standpoint "I like it, I love it"...or "I don't really like it...I hate it"...often reading explanations do help and then I like going back and looking at piece again...Teymur says that his art speaks for itself...he doesn't like talking anyway...therefore prefers to exhibit his pieces and hopes that they would do the talking for him...or...his spouse :) In his exhibition "...yesterday, today, tomorrow..." that we opened on December 3 in State Art Museum in Baku and that will last until 31 December he presented to audience 20 sculptures, one interactive sculpture, two graphics and video art...I will post here couple of pictures (hope to update the website soon where we will have all pieces)...if you are in Baku take a break and visit the exhibition since venue, space, light, atmosphere all play a role...take children too so that they see that different grown-ups are engaged with different things and that they can also explore and find passion of their own...

Exhibition is open until 31 December...Baku, Azerbaijan...State Art Museum...11 Niyazi street...

"I will not make anymore boring art"...Venice...click on the picture to see it bigger...I posted this one so you also enjoy scene of Venice atmosphere...

"Modern" Buta by Teymur Rustamov...2010...Metal, copper, granite, glass 140x67x27 (cm) photo by Fakhriyya Mammadova Replica by Teymur Rustamov...2010...Bronze, granite 46x18x16 (cm)
Artist and piece looking at each other...they speak the same language you see

photo by Fakhriyya Mammadova

Openings are always crowded...ideally its good to socialize at the opening and then find time to come back and have time of your own with exhibits...

Lets get arty...

2010-12-04T18:01:00.003+04:00

Time to write about food for soul... The question is where I begin from? Maybe I will have to write several posts on this subject let me start and see how it goes...

In 2007 when by a pure wish of heart and destiny my spouse Teymur Rustamov and I happened to be in Venice the trip coincided with Venice Biennale period...and it was the first time when Azerbaijan was taking part in Biennale as an independent country. While I was trying to get the flavour of Venice, Teymur who is a sculptor was trying to get the most of Biennale...we both knew that we wanted to go back to Venice, I wanted to have more walks in charming back streets of the place, Teymur wanted to see more Biennales (I loved the title of that Biennale which was “Think with the Senses-Feel with the Mind”)...These wishes went up to Universe :) and we came back and continued our lives...Teymur was busy with his art and then...he was chosen to be one of the artists to represent Azerbaijan in Venice Biennale in 2009. We were back in Venice...

Talking only about art part of the event it is about all latest trends in contemporary art and place to be for those who follow art closely. Since I am not an art critic I will stop here describing the Biennale. All I want to say that it is a great feeling to realise that your country is prosperous enough to participate in these feasts for soul and that its artists have peaceful minds and talent to be able to create and represent their art.

Teymur was participating with his multi-media installation “I TRUST” that, if I quote a curator of Azeri exposition in 2009 Leyla Akhundzada who is not with us unfortunately any longer and an art critic Teymur Daimi, “represents a projection of memory, consciousness and sub-consciousness of the author...” I don’t think I can actually describe the work...thus I will conclude here and post some pictures instead...You can see the installation in Azerbaijan State Art Museum next time you are in Baku. :)

We have just opened Teymur’s personal exhibition in Baku...following several posts would be devoted to art, exhibition and Teymur...

Season of olives...II...

2010-11-27T17:12:00.004+04:00

Unfortunately due to time constraints (hate this argument by the way) I am not able to write about all seasonal fruits and vegetables in Azerbaijan but at least I have to mention the ones which my family is passionate about...meaning if saffron is my father’s passion then olives are passion of my father-in-law.

This year when I was helping to gather the harvest (not that I am a perfect tree climber but challenged myself as the best ones are of course at the very top) and was thinking what I am going to write about olives a thought came to my mind...Olive tree is not the best looking tree to my opinion...I was thinking that as if the tree is trying to get attention by not its looks but by its beautiful olives...(against the proverb that people meet others by their appearance not by their content if you know what I mean) also part of the tree that receives more sunshine offers bigger juicer olives...just like people longing for warm words trees also look for better and warmer sunshine...interesting...harvest always amazes me as a miracle of nature and makes me philosophical you see :) thus sharing with you...This year harvest was very good too and actually my father-in-law already prepared them for us and not only to enjoy and benefit. Grateful to him...and nature of course...

My earlier post on olives can be found here.

best ones at the top all very colourful and pretty best ones
shiny...aren't they beautiful... dropped the bucket when taking another photo, decided to photo this too before gathering olives back to the bucket :)

Art of cooking (if I may say :)...

2010-11-20T17:05:00.000+04:00

Some readers might get shocked that many older people in Sheki continue to think that lamb is the healthiest meat and that the most delicious meals are prepared using melted butter. Let my granny rest in peace but she and her sisters would never have a second opinion about the above…

In the age when eating less is becoming more and more popular what you eat and how you eat meaning what goes well with what is very important in Azerbaijan…

Spoiled with numerous kinds of fresh and delicious fruits, vegetables and other, backed up by rich traditions and culture, prepared with kind hands and warm hearts of our grannies and mothers Azerbaijan can boast to have one of the best cuisines in the world…and yes, I am making this statement confidently.

Just as one example…Sheki has plov or (ash as we call it in Sheki) for each season (rice prepared in a way that I can’t really describe…rice that you can “hear” from far away thanks to saffron and magic used during preparation).

Today my post is devoted to a good friend Farida Sadikhova Buyuran who not only cherishes and appreciates Azeri cuisine but what is even more important conveys it to a wider audience via her colorful and wonderful website, AZ Cookbook – Food from Azerbaijan & Beyond, and soon to be published in USA cookbook. I respect passion she puts into her work and perfectionism and seriousness with which she approaches this task. I am sure her sunny and happy personality will shine through her book as it does now when we visit her website. I wish her good luck with publishing her book and many exciting projects in the future. Sending her our support from Baku I hope that she will get the same support in USA and everywhere else her book reaches. I have put the link to her website on this post but you can also find the link on the right side of this blog. Good luck to you, Farida!! The book will be a success I am sure.

Met via blogging we met in person in summer when Farida was visiting Azerbaijan.

First I wanted to edit the photo so that you could see only Farida and I but then I left the picture as it is :)

Sooo many things to talk about :)

What do I treat Farida to? No let me be honest here...what do I ask my mom to prepare for us? (I did the cake though :) Let's go traditional...let's have dolma (stuffed grape leaves). Dolma goes well with yogurt, melon or cucumber (go for Sheki white cucumber:) and summer salad.

Qurban Bayrami (Eid al-Adha) in Azerbaijan...

2010-11-16T15:00:00.007+04:00

Azerbaijan is celebrating Qurban Bayrami (Eid al-Adha) this week. Most of people will be back to business only on Thursday this week.

Weather is very generous to us this week as well. Sun is shining brightly in many regions of the country. Leaves of the trees and waters of the Caspian shine so brightly.

Many families are spending their days together and enjoying the weather and each other's company.

Today many people also remember to be generous and share. Everyone who can afford slaughters sheep and shares meat with relatives, friends and most importantly with those in need.

We all pray and hope for peace and prosperity and thank for health, beauty, love, each other and for everything actually.

Sending you best wishes and lots of sun shine from Azerbaijan via below pictures, courtesy of good friend and talented photographer Tagi Jafarov.

Flag Day in Azerbaijan...

2010-11-09T23:54:00.008+04:00

Always got amazed how flag is cherished in Turkey and the U.S. Maybe in other countries too of course...

Azeri flag was raised for the first time in 1918 when Democratic Republic of Azerbaijan was announced. Republic lasted for two years only. Since 1920 and until 80s the idea that Azerbaijan can't survive independently was slowly and surely sown into the minds and mentality of the nation...notions like pride and love for land, country, anthem, flag, language, each other were not only unpopular but almost forbidden...will never forget how I travelled to Turkey and saw flags on so many balconies and proud slogans everywhere in the city...I thought to myself «Wow, they are not shy to be patriotic and praise their country so proudly and openly»...travelled to the U.S. and saw how every child no matter where he/she comes from sings the anthem of their new country...pride for the country is taught from childhood...Fortunately nowadays more and more Azeris realize how lucky they are or we are to be from the country which is so rich in many ways be it natural resources, be it culture...and that we are the human resource of this country and the question is not «what Azerbaijan did for me?» but more «what I did for Azerbaijan?»...

Long live Azerbaijan! Long live its three color flag!

Season of crocus (saffron)...II

2010-11-06T01:14:00.025+04:00

Now...its not only season of pomegranate but also saffron in Azerbaijan these days...This is one of the most popular subjects in our household too since my father has a big passion for saffron and as you know passions of parents create at minimum interest in their children too. Thanks to him who is never tired of spreading the knowledge accompanied with bulbs of saffron of course almost all our relatives and not only grow saffron in their gardens. He grows saffron in Baku and Sheki for pleasure and health and each season we all get fascinated with this the most gentle in looks and the most powerful in essence gift of nature.

Enough of words...let me share with you some photos. First I want to show you the photo that I took in my uncle’s garden in Sheki...this photo was taken sometime in September when there were no saffron flowers yet but even getting ready for its flowers it already looked beautiful...(see green at the background...)

I am thanking my cousin, Fatima Giyasli, who sent me below photos from Sheki...taken in the same garden...when saffron got ready and when they started picking it day by day...flower by flower...

everything is perfect about saffron...

picking flower by flower...

stamen by stamen...

Enjoy the season :)

Everything about pomegranate...

2010-10-17T00:37:00.002+05:00

If figs and grapes are associated in Azerbaijan with its Absheron peninsular with tomatoes particularly with its village of Zira, saffron with village of Mashtaga, apples with another region of Azerbaijan Guba, nuts with Gabala, lemon with Lenkoran, white cucumber and white cornelian cherry with Sheki, potatoes with Gedebey, then when we see pomegranates we want them to come from Goychay. Since Goychay pomegranates with rich in colour and taste seeds are simply the best :).

Pomegranate season is taking off in Azerbaijan at the moment and all the markets are full of sweet and sour sorts of this fruit. Just like recognizing the most delicious melon or watermelon considers to be a task and challenge everyone here tries to master knowing which pomegranate to choose from all the ones which are offered (and said to be coming from Goychay :) in the bazaar is equally important. Good pomegranate would show in its skin...it would be ready to be cut...Grandparents and parents carry kilos of pomegranate to their loved ones. In addition to being served as fruit pomegranate is used in preparation and design of many dishes such as cabbage dolma, fish, gutab and many others. Pomegranate juice is good for renewing of blood (as we say here), immune system etc etc. People with diarrhea would boil pomegranate skin and drink the water...and get well of course.

In addition to all above pomegranate bears a philosophical meaning as well (this is East and everything has a philosophical background and meaning to it :). If I am not mistaken pomegranate is a fruit of wisdom. Fresco miniatures on walls of Sheki Khan Palace have pomegranate in many scenes. I couldn't find in my archive better photo than below one where you can see pomegranate tree painted on the wall of one of the rooms. You would need to visit the Palace to hear from museum hostess what meaning was given to pomegranate by our ancestors...

Please take a second and see my earlier posts here and here on pomegranate with pictures of trees in blossom...

Enjoy the season :)

Sheki Khan Palace with tales to tell...

Generous nature...

40,000 and even more visitors...

2010-10-14T14:03:00.019+05:00

Looking back now to 2007 and trying to recall what I did during last three years in addition to making a career and having if any :) personal input to daily life of Universe :) (and if I don't mention family life) then writing this blog is one of the best things that I have been doing...

Sometimes though I am thinking to myself if this is really important, necessary, useful...writing about Sheki, writing about Azerbaijan, educating, informing, promoting, marketing, presenting Azerbaijan. So what that some people would at last hear or would know better about our "land of fire". Does this change anything? Does this make anything better? Anything better for and in Azerbaijan?

Classic and traditional Azeri person/family wouldn't praise himself/itself...he/it would wait for others to do so...I guess this applies to the whole country as well..there is a saying in Russian "скромность украшает человека" what translates as "modesty speaks highly of a person..."But isn't modern world all about presentation skills and information? Don't we study how to "sell" ourselves? How do I explain to a teenager from Sheki that she should speak louder and clearer and not blush as there are not many mature people that would recognize and care to notice capabilities hidden within...that if she can't articulate herself someone might/would do that for her and that presentation can be quite far from reality...somehow I can say the same about Azerbaijan...

Thus although maybe not much can change for/in Azerbaijan by information that I try putting on internet I hope to achieve even though partially at least one goal...that is that information would be accurate...who would do it better than local :) (word used to identify Azeris living in Azerbaijan comparing to foreigners that are temporarily in the country (the same word must be used in other places too :))

Today with this post I am thanking my all 40,000 (and even more by now) visitors who cared to visit, read and even comment on the posts. Are 40,000 many? Well if I compare to 6 billion :) but then I am writing in English...and also if I look around and see ten people and each and every is a unique individual...so I think 40,000 and more is good! :)

Thank you and see you! :)

this picture of another special place of Azerbaijan called Khinalig could be more convincing than words :) Courtesy of Asim Talib.

Summer will have to say good bye...

2010-10-07T00:26:00.001+05:00

Septembers and very often Octobers are still quite warm in Azerbaijan...especially in Baku... Surrounded by mountains thats not always the case for Sheki but still many days are sunny and warm...But starting mid September there are more and more days with rain and wind and inevitably summer is replaced by autumn...by mild autumn though...by "velvet" season as we call it that is very pleasant after humid and hot summer..."velvet" season is when you still wear light cloths but you better have scarf with you in case weather decides to change its mind...we don't know how long this would last and every sunny day is accepted with joy and gratitude...

Today I want to share with you the photo I took on our boulevard...this sailing boat looked as cozy to me as cashmere weather of velvet season...it kind of conveys my today's mood of already anticipating relaxing weekend with hopefully good weather...

Be well...

20 September - oil workers day in Azerbaijan…

2010-09-20T22:19:00.010+05:00

As a foreword let me start with telling that there have been cases when people that have never been and vaguely heard about Azerbaijan would ask questions like…“is that true that once one lands in Azerbaijan he/she smells oil right away?”…or “does oil really run down the streets in Baku?”…what to answer to questions like this? Just “no” or maybe it would be more fun to answer “yes” :)

A year or so ago I came across a modern art exposition of one of foreign artists who gathered the spills of oil in suburbs of Baku in her show room and made a story and exposition around this theme…I must confess that the smell in the room was the smell I knew and it was a very “native” smell :)

But let me mention in this post today that I am not sure about the smell one feels landing in Baku since I am used to it and won't be able to comment and also no, the oil does not run down the streets in Baku and never did.

Caspian suffers from pollution (just in case if you never heard before Caspian happens to be the biggest lake in the world) and some suburbs of Baku are still polluted too…But as I mentioned before things come in a “package”; thus oil comes with smell and radiation but transforms into strategic product and wealth....

Going back to oil workers day...People that are involved in production exploration exploitation etc and turning oil into strategic product are the assets of the industry and not only. I want to mention my father, Nadir Qiyasov, who is not only knowledgeable and experienced geophysicist but I would say talented professional who seems to know every inch of Absheron peninsula. He got his initial education in Oil Academy in Azerbaijan and he and his fellow students are/unfortunately by now many of them were precious assets of the industry and the country overall.

My post today is devoted to my dear father and to all oil workers of Azerbaijan who turn oil (definition of oil in Wikipedia - naturally occurring, toxic, flammable liquid consisting of a complex mixture of hydrocarbons of various molecular weights, and other organic compounds, that are found in geologic formations beneath the Earth's surface) to black gold and well-being of their country and people…

this is how oil exploration looked in early XX century...

late XX and early XXI century...

Things that make me smile...

2010-09-18T11:49:00.006+05:00

Once in an airport in Italy we approached one desk which had a sign “will be back soon”…Of course we were not quite sure what “soon” meant exactly for the person who left the sign…we made a joke that if this sign were in Germany most probably the person would mention in how many minutes he/she plans to be back but since we were in Italy “soon” was good enough :) besides Azeris have quite a philosophical approach to notion of time anyway :)

Yesterday when I was driving home on one turn there was something like a sign seeing which it was more or less clear that there were construction works going on and I should choose another road…but no…I still decided to try…why? a) maybe they just forgot the sign there, b) maybe there is still some naaarrow road that I could use, c) maybe workers would agree to move their truck for a second :) so that I pass (last time this worked). So I drove and saw that it was not the case the road was completely closed. Behind and in front of my car there were many other cars with drivers who for above or some other reasons also ignored the signs and had to turn back now…You see…Does something like this happen in other places? Or people are so organized that they wouldn’t look for “just in case” opportunities and obey to the signs? Not the case here :) They should have made it impossible to drive in…making clear that they mean it! :)

Often I hear people around me complaining that this is Azerbaijan and everything is possible here (mainly accentuating the negative of course). But I think we shouldn’t ignore the facts that this is a) south b) crossroad of east and west c) country with complex history that left its impact on generations…and everything comes in a “package” you see :) I think you would agree that mentality, behavioral patterns and way of thinking is different if you compare south to north, east to west, big country to smaller country etc etc etc…we are all very similar and different in many ways and all unique and fun :)

Below photo I took in one of the parks outside Baku…I guess these are shoes of the gardener or some other worker (very neatly paired)…most probably he has different shoes that he is wearing on tiles (not to dirty them) and while taking care of trees etc…but he did not bother to take them with him but left there to come back later (quite typical too I would say) :) the scene made me smile and I thought I’d share it with you…Photo is called “I’ll be back”...hope it makes you smile too :)

Be well…

Sky and not only...

2010-09-14T23:33:00.009+05:00

When driving to or from Sheki one can witness how climate zones substitute each other…it happens mildly naturally and very beautifully…if Baku area is a desert by nature (maybe nature played a little irony when creating areas like Baku and its suburbs…desert on its outside if I may say but so rich with natural resources in its depths...) starting from Shamakhi nature becomes greener then turns into rich forests of Ismailli and then there are Oguz, Gabala and Sheki competing to offer fresh air, tranquility and natural food products for people escaping the capital. Somewhere between Shamakhi and Ismailli we always make a last stop to enjoy air before driving in to industrious Baku. Unfortunately I didn’t take photos of beautiful forests that are getting ready for autumn but when we were closer to Baku and there were less and less trees I noticed that sky was very fascinating...it got me inspired to write this post, make some photos to share with you (excuse me for the quality I took the photos on my phone from the car window with my younger son sleeping on my lap:) and think to myself goodbye peaceful and lovely Sheki and hello hectic and ambitious Baku...

too big to capture on camera...

no matter how many photos I took it didn't seem enough to convey the beauty...

Ramadan...

2010-09-09T18:38:00.027+05:00

Wishing you happy Ramadan from Sheki...photo a courtesy of Hema K...

Where is the best place to be for Ramadan holiday? Guess my reply would be..."yes, Sheki :))"...But honestly if you happen to be in Sheki for Ramadan holiday you would definitely get the spirit of the holiday. This year we are lucky to have a long weekend for Ramadan what means that many people could travel...including I (thus writing this post in Sheki :)...

I was not fasting but my parents were...Days in August are very long and it was amazing to see them and many other people not drinking and eating from early morning until around nine in the evening...and getting together for breaking the fast is always a great experience...(even though I wasn't fasting it is a great time to share)...

Tradition says that on Ramadan holiday everyone should help the poor ones, visit close relatives of those who lost their dear ones during that year...visit cemeteries and remember the ones that are not with us...and visit and wish happy Ramadan to all elderly and not only relatives and friends that have been fasting...Since we are in Sheki on our way to my uncle's house we saw many people that were on their way to visit someone else...here and there you would hear people wishing happy Ramadan to each other and my uncle tried to stay at home most of the day today since so many people are coming to visit...he in his turn together with my father went to congratulate their aunt who is one of the oldest in the family...last and not the least traditional bakery is made and shared with everyone who visits...great time to be together :)

Happy Ramadan and all the very best from Azerbaijan...:)

P.S. My earlier posts on Ramadan can be found here and here.

Expecting guests...

Traditional Ramadan sweet bakery (ovma)...

Traditional Ramadan kind of porridge (yayma) to everyone who comes...

My cup of tea...

2010-08-28T00:15:00.009+05:00

Is there anything new that I can see in Sheki if I go there every year? No, I don’t mean new developments I mean visiting the same places…call me sentimental but as an energizer there are places that I would definitely visit each time even if I don’t have a new guest with me …such as Karavansaray…why? Because I feel good there :) because its walls talk history and because it has always got delicious and very traditional cup of tea waiting just for me :)

My earlier posts on Karavansaray (Caravansaray) can be found here, here and here.

Below was a great catch for me - I took this photo just at the entrance to Karavansaray...someone else's çay dəstgahı i.e. tea set waiting...click to make the image bigger...

People...Countries...Destinies...Azerbaijan - Turkey...

2010-08-25T18:21:00.009+05:00

Dear Ayten,

Last night when I was searching Sheki in google I found your blog. Sheki is my grandparents land. They came to Istanbul ca.1897. My father, he was born in Istanbul, always wanted to go there and to find relatives. And his dreams came true. He came with the first plane from Istanbul to Baku. With some key words which he heard from his father he found his family. After this visit he made our family tree. I lost my father 3 years ago. I remember when he was at the hospital one day he said : I wish to breath the clean air of my mointains. He loved his fatherland with passion. I wanted to share this with you.

Lots of love

I received above letter last month...and got a permission to share it with you...

...As a background I must mention that back in Soviet times (more than 70 years of XX century) communicating with Turkey was forbidden. It had a name Pan-Turkism and people that dared even to think about Turkey/Turks were/could be imprisoned...For Azeris who were very close with Turks geographically, culturally, ethnically and first of all historically this prohibition meant to say the least an unnatural and hard thing to live with...

People in Sheki (and overall in Azerbaijan) have warm feelings about Turkey and Turkish people...Almost every household watches Turkish television and people speak quite ok Turkish (especially kids:). Azeri and Turkish are from the same Turkic group of languages. I heard many Turks say that Azeri reminds them Anatolian Turkish...But there were times when people were listening to Turkish radio secretly with threat to be heard...They were missing their friends and very often family members who could never come back or visit Azerbaijan as they were in Turkey when the borders got closed. (this is how group of people or a person can decide about the destiny and life of whole nations)...

One of those people who always loved and longed for Turkey was my grandfather. My father says that he would always talk about and remember Turkey and dream about the days when it would be possible to travel freely.

I don't know if he believed that it would be at all possible...Would he believe then if he were told that one of his grandsons would be a professor in one of the universities in Turkey and that one of his great-grandsons would be studying in Ankara and that his sons, grand children and
great-grandsons (and daughters:) would be visiting Turkey often and would have Turkish friends visiting them in Baku and Sheki...and that in summer 2010 Turkish President would pay a visit to Sheki...

Life is strange and amazing at the same time...there are people that make it strange and those who make it amazing, those who put the artificial borders and those that are forever free in their spirit and dreams...

My post today is devoted to my grandfather, Shakir Qiyasov, to grandfather of my reader in Turkey and to all those who had to suffer from intrigues and plans of «people in charge»...May they rest in peace and may their descendents always live in better times...

My grandfather Shakir Qiyasov...Man of wisdom and kindness who had no sentiments about Soviet Union…

P.S.

This is my 200th post. Only and already 200. It feels as if I wrote so many posts...and their number is only 200. Well...they say the quality is more important than quantity...:)...modest me :)...Thank you for visiting my blog, reading it and leaving your thoughts and comments. Life and You are my inspiration! Be well and best wishes from Azerbaijan! :)

Summer heat...

2010-08-19T12:26:00.016+05:00

Summer is not only about holidays but also one of the most active and anxious periods of the year for many families in Azerbaijan. This is when entrance exams to universities take place. If you visit the families that have boys or girls taking this exam very often you might get the feeling that as if it is the whole family that would be taking the exam. Everybody is very nervous and worried. To me this anxiousness of course passes to poor those who need to take the actual exam although everyone is also advising them to be calm and concentrated…All conversations are about the tasks, subjects, tutors and universities. Anticipation and excitement are reaching its peak on the day of the exam and when the results are announced.

What was good about Soviet times was that studying at school was a must. School program was quite thorough and no matter how far in the village anyone lived everyone was attending the classes. As a result everyone was literate. What was bad about Soviet times was that it left behind a tradition of corruption in the process of enrollment to universities. In early 90s Azerbaijan switched to test system what gave equal opportunities to everyone. I know people that had to choose universities according to their financial position and those who were trying persistently their luck knocking on the doors of the universities that had “barricade” with slogan “show me the money…” Children of these people are now able to choose the universities where they think their heart and abilities belong to. All they have to do is to study hard to pass harsh competition since studying and getting higher education continues to be popular around the country. As far as I heard this year two out of seven entrants who got the highest score of 700 are originally from Sheki!! Well done to everyone!!!

Congratulations to everyone who got what they wanted and good luck to everyone!!!

My other post about my distinct teachers can be found here.

I don’t have a relevant photo to this post...

I took below photo in Kish village of Sheki. We asked the girls a question and got a witty answer which I am afraid is untranslatable to English since it involves a phrase in dialect (which is very distinct in Sheki). The answer made us laugh (very natural for Sheki which is famous for its jokes and obviously this character runs in the veins of everyone there:). I asked the girls if I may take their photo. One decided to leave the other decided to pose. The other two didn’t care. Talking about freedom to make own choices and decisions…

P.S. For those who speak Azeri I am mentioning our dialogue with girls. “A qızlar, Kişə nətəri gedək?...”......“Habıra Kişdir, daaa!!”...bu sözlər əla intonasiya və əlləri ilə ayaqlarının altında olan torpağı göstərməklə müşayət olundu :)

When art talks about the country...

2010-07-22T23:09:00.034+05:00

Yesterday we went to personal photo exhibition of a good friend, Fakhriyya Mammadova.

Today with her permission my post will be written around one of the photos she has made.

It often happens that one wanders around the exhibits and some of them excite you, the others make you smile, think, relax etc...

There is this photo that you will see lower that talked to me...first I liked the colors, then I realized that its theme is so close to me...in awhile I knew that I want to share it with you...

You might have heard that there are places on this planet where gas emissions come out of earth and those parts of land are constantly in fire...these kind of areas exist close to Baku and one place is called Yanardag i.e. Burning Mountain. They say that this was the reason why Zoroastrians from India stayed in Azerbaijan when they were crossing the country...where it could be more natural to worship the fire if not here...

Centuries passed...you won't see people worshiping fire at Yanardag now but you would see tourists and native people that visit Burning Mountain and places alike to watch the fire and let it mesmerize them...some people would go, look at fire, take photos etc and leave; for Azeri would be also very natural to look for a place to sit and watch the fire for awhile thinking about everything and nothing...the only thing that would be lacking for a complete happiness at that moment would be...yes...tea :)) (could be unexpected for a foreigner but veeeery natural for Azeri. You can find my other posts on tea here and here:).

Well...what might seem a bit unusual and awkward thing to do for others is quite a comfortable thing for art person...this is how I imagine Fakhriyya ended up taking a photo of an after tea ceremony in Yanardag. This is purely my interpretation of the photo which maybe is far from reality but then when it comes to art one never knows when reality gives up to imagination...

Be well...and arty :)

Nizami Ganjavi...

2010-07-19T17:52:00.019+05:00

There are things, events and people too grand for just a post...to talk about them in detail one would need to do a thorough scientific work...

This post is devoted to Nizami Ganjavi...one of grand figures of literature...Nizami Ganjavi belonged to XII century when people had no mobiles to communicate, computers to search for information and airplanes to travel...I can picture Nizami Ganjavi sitting calmly in his house in Ganja and creating his jewels one by one...no rush, no haste, no interruption...just him and his talent, wisdom and poetry...what a blessing...

Nizami Ganjavi is best known for his "Khamsa", five long poems, five enduring masterpieces...: "The Storehouse of Mysteries", "Khosrow and Shirin", "Leyli and Majnun", "The Book of Alexander" and "The Seven Beauties". I won't talk about these works here...I think one should "talk" about these works creatively, poetically, for instance creating ballets based on these stories as Qara Qarayev did creating his ballet "The Seven Beauties"...I would just say that if Europeans remember Romeo and Juliet story of Shakespeare seeing someone deeply, truly and madly in love...then Azeris and many other people in the East would remember Leyli and Majnun written by Nizami Ganjavi...

Six years ago my husband and I met a professor in British Library who was writing a book about Nizami and his works. When I noticed her book I exclaimed with excitement: "oh, I come from the same country as Nizami..."...and she said "well, he wrote in Persian so for us he is a Persian poet"...I started to tell that he was born and comes from the city in Azerbaijan, Ganja...that he was/is Ganjavi etc, etc...but didn't seem to convince her very much...did I have to...I don't know...I am free to think that he was Azeri :)...people like Nizami belong to the whole universe anyway...all we can do is read and enjoy his poetry and share the pride...

Be well :)

Artistic portrayal of Nizami Ganjavi on a carpet...
Nizami Ganjavi monument in Baku...created by sculptor Fuad Abdurahmanov (who was originally from Sheki) in 1949.

Bahram Gur, sculptural fountain, considered as first one in Baku is devoted to epic hero of Nizami Ganjavi's "The Seven Beauties". Created by sculptors Albert Mustafayev, Qorxmaz Sucaddinov and Aslan Rustamov (my father in law) in 1960s.

Shirvanshah Palace the landmark of Baku...

2010-07-16T09:38:00.010+05:00

Going back to my previous post on landmark of Baku, Maiden Tower (Qız Qalası) I need to mention another important historical landmark of our capital...Shirvanshah Palace that dates back to XV century....

Shirvanshah Palace was built during the rule of Shirvanshahs in Azerbaijan (861-1538) when capital of Shirvanshah was moved from Shemakha to Baku.

Palace of course shared hard times of Azerbaijan...museums and art struggle and thrive together with countries you see...Nonetheless broad walls of Shirvanshah Palace stood proudly to all mischief of history and reached XXI century to witness Azerbaijan of today that is able to protect its heritage and pass it with care to future generations...

Recently pieces that were kept in fund of the Palace were put on display and walking through the rooms of the Palace is even more interesting and educational now...For some reason I also have a feeling that exhibits "live" if they are displayed and viewed...in return they breathed new life into the Palace and take the visitors to more ancient times of Baku and Azerbaijan in general...

Enjoy the tour...

Its all about fruits now in Azerbaijan...part II

2010-06-23T15:18:00.007+05:00

Since its all about fruits now in Azerbaijan this also implies that season of "mürəbbə" is officially open. I have mentioned "mürəbbə" ealier on this blog here. It is a sweet preserve to be served with tea but its not a jam...this preserve is not jammed; fruits stay whole and "undamaged". Well prepared mürəbbə should keep the colour and flavour as much as possible and convey the special taste of THE fruit. Well my post is not really devoted to mürəbbə today. Those of you who is interested in Azeri cuisine please visit Farida's Cookbook here.

Yesterday I popped in to bazaar where I bought some fruits and took below photo. I only had my four year old son with me who is too young to help me with load and bargaining :).

I am all for equal rights and woman emancipation if you wish but I kind of still expect men to offer help to carry heavy bags and open the doors for ladies. Fortunately this is still the case in Azerbaijan (mostly:) and few women would get offended at extra attention they usually get. There is of course that fine border when being extra polite to women can become extra familiar and this is something to be handled...But...when I was offered help yesterday and my hesitant offer of tip was interpreted as offence and old man at parking said couple of kind wishes/praises in addition to thanking for the coins he received (his usual habit:) I kind of felt good and thought to myself that being a gentleman never harms and does not belittle any man or woman. In modern life when all rights and obligations have mixed up and men and women work shoulder to shoulder I am not sure if hierarchy etiquette allows men to stay gentlemen and women feminine. Well personally I hope that men would continue to be confident/strong enough to stay gentlemen and women confident/comfortable enough to stay feminine. These are the thoughts I wanted to share with you today...:)

Be well :)

Maiden Tower (Qız Qalası) the landmark of Baku...

2010-06-18T17:08:00.005+05:00

Has it ever happened to you that anywhere you travel you make sure to see all or most of the landmarks of the place, take photos and listen to historic facts...and realize at some point that you have spent much less time looking analyzing learning enjoying historic places of your own home city and country.

When we say Paris - Eiffel Tower comes in front of our eyes, we remember New York and recall Statue of Liberty, we talk about London and imagine Big Ben...most probably every city has the place, the landmark, the symbol that associates with it mostly...more people talk about it, more they mention it, more that symbol stays in the memories...becomes the city’s landmark...associates with it.

In Soviet times it used to be popular to spend vacations outside of Azerbaijan thus many Azeris knew much more about resorts of other Republics or Europe (for those who could travel) etc than Azerbaijan. Last ten years or so many Azeris started to kind of rediscover their country, its regions, history, geography, «treasures» that are here to explore, cherish and enjoy (this is my personal opinion:).

Baku's landmark is Qız Qalası - Maiden Tower. Hereby I want to start, continue, join, enforce the process of associating Qız Qalası (Maiden Tower) with Baku - Baku with Maiden Tower (Qız Qalası)...

Maiden Tower of XII century or possibly earlier is one of UNESCO's World Heritage places. It continues to be a theme for many scientific works and thoughts and is a distinct tower to enjoy beautiful views of old and modern Baku and Caspian. For those interested to know more about the tower here is the article on Maiden Tower.

I am posting a photo that I borrowed from above mentioned article with of view of Maiden Tower in 1860 but I also want to share with you the video devoted to International Art Festival “Qız Qalası” that took place in May this year and hosted artists from different countries who worked in the Old City inspired by views and architecture of Maiden Tower. Enjoy and remember to visit Maiden Tower next time you are in Baku :)

Its all about fruits now in Azerbaijan...

2010-06-15T15:07:00.000+05:00

I must have mentioned earlier that Azerbaijan is blessed to have nine climate zones out of available eleven...thus different regions are famous for having different fruits and vegetables that are particularly delicious and special. Traditionally each fruit/vegetable is expected to be available in a particular season of course...With development and modern life fruits and vegetables started to get imported from everywhere...and are available the whole year...At the same time there is more and more information about genetic engineering that is getting more advanced around the world...Older I grow, more I hear - less I want to buy a fruit that travelled from far away and continues to look perfect...buying strawberries from a near village gives me not only more taste but also more comfort; and eating that strawberry I hope that engineering in food products won't reach regions of Azerbaijan...

Well...fruit season started with strawberries and cherry plums here (not sure if cherry plums grow everywhere, it can be sweet and sour; we have a particularly delicious sort that is called peyvənd alça/alycha; the sort that has rich sour-sweet taste) and continues with sweet and sour cherries and apricots etc etc etc.

Wishing you a healthy and delicious summer! :))

Strawberries everywhere...
Cherry plums...

Closer look to cherry plums...

28th of May - Republic Day in Azerbaijan

2010-05-28T23:26:00.018+05:00

28th of May is celebrated as Republic Day in Azerbaijan. This is the day when Democratic Republic of Azerbaijan was declared in 1918 and Act of Independence of Azerbaijan was adopted. This was the first Democratic Republic in the Orient...Republic that lasted then for 23 months only....

Azerbaijan declared its independence for the second time in 1991.

My posts on this date: in 2009 here and in 2008 here.

I was thinking today what I would write this year...History shows that people always fought for their borders and land, for their right to have identity, to be independent. Globalization might be an interesting neologism but unfortunately historically there were always the ones who tried to repress and the ones that had to struggle (in addition to many other things). Its year 2010. Azerbaijan Republic is gradually building up. It is representing itself internationally independently; and its citizen and/or native Azeris are still learning sometimes to love, respect and be proud of their Republic.

Today I am posting a photo of Azeri passport. On many borders I saw customs officials who were curiously examining my passport...often they never saw one or never heard of a place called Azerbaijan...surprise, surprise, the person carrying this passport didn't look any different :)

"Land of Fire", situated on cross roads of East and West, rich with natural resources and motherland to talented people, Azerbaijan, as any other Republic is striving for peace and wellbeing on its territory...and...further. So be it! Happy Republic Day! :)

Have you seen a rainbow this year?

2010-05-25T01:45:00.008+05:00

Recently I came across a beautiful question...«have you seen a rainbow this year?»...Rainbow that reminds of childhood, happy and cheerful moments. I think anyone who sees a rainbow smiles at this beautiful phenomenon of nature. The question implied that until a person is able to notice rainbows, to raise his/her eyes to see and enjoy, to smile to this event of nature that means that the person continues to live and is able to gladden his heart and soul. Soon after I heard this question my relative in Sheki, Turkan Mustafayeva, shared with us above picture that she took from her balcony. The view from their balcony is beautiful. They are blessed to see gorgeous mountains before them...currently buried in rich and deep green foliage...I am thanking Turkan for sharing with us this amazing instant of nature...and hope you will enjoy it too...:)

P.S. After I made this post I received a nice note from my another relative originally from Sheki, Arifa Salayeva, who reminded that one should make a wish when sees a rainbow "when you see a rainbow, draw or make a small cross on the ground, after doing this you may then make your wish"...

Also she recalled a beautiful poem/song that I want to share with you too:

somewhere over the rainbow
skies are blue
and the dreams that you dare to dream
really do come true...:)

“Zhiguli” or part of our history...

2010-05-21T00:58:00.009+05:00

There are different ways how a person looks at everything…as they say “glass can feel/seem/look half full or half empty…”

Nowadays it is very popular to complain…we often complain about everything starting from weather and continuing with anything…as if better we live more we complain…

As most of you know Soviet times were all about “Zhiguli”s or “Lada cars”…People were happy to have/to be allowed to have a car…nowadays there are no restrictions…cars everywhere…after being happy for awhile that there are no restrictions and there are new opportunities everyone started to complain that cars are too big, streets are too narrow, traffic jams are too irritating…etc etc…

Well…Zhiguli on below pictures belongs to the neighbor of my in-laws…looks like he is not getting depressed that his car is not the fastest and the biggest on this street...but loves the car he has got…his glass must be half full…hopefully…:)

Why “Zhiguli” on this blog? Because it is a part of our history…we might not always like our history but it is what it is with all the good and the bad…hopefully today we (can) create a better history for tomorrow…each of us…

Be well :)

9th of May...

2010-05-09T00:14:00.004+05:00

Today I want to write about 9th of May...

9th of May is celebrated as Victory Day in World War II (1941-1945) in post-Soviet countries. Soviet era left behind many ambiguous memories but there is one thing that everyone remembers with pride about our general past. People of all 15 Republics fought together shoulder to shoulder against fascism during WWII and gained victory with their blood and lives. This memory has no regrets and second thoughts. This is the history that everyone is proud to be a part of. There are fewer and fewer veterans among us. 9th of May is their day. Today each and every “post-Soviet” person remembers veterans and victims of World War II and celebrates victory. My post on 9th of May that I wrote back in 2007 where I mention Ahmadiyya Jabrailov, one of famous veterans of Sheki, can be read here.

There was this wish that was quite popular in Soviet times...people were wishing to each other “peaceful sky”...This is still quite relevant nowadays in this uncertain world...and very relevant to Azerbaijan that is in cease-fire situation...

I took below pictures today...when walking with my kids in Baku...I thought to myself that I would post them and remember and thank all veterans of World War II and everyone else who acts for peace and justice, for this peaceful sky...Thank you! Happy Victory Day!!!

Many countries are celebrating 9th of May as Mother's Day...well I guess there is something that unites people in many countries of the world today then...since every mother prays for peace on Earth...Happy Mother's Day!

Traditions...Backgammon...

2010-04-22T11:29:00.015+05:00

Backgammon game is called “nərd” in Azerbaijan. Just in case for those who don’t know dictionary says “backgammon is a game for two people played on a board with pieces moved according to throws of the dice”.

Behind this definition there is a lot of passion, excitement, heat for many men and quite often women in Azerbaijan who love to play backgammon. What happens usually is that after a good meal and a cup of tea many friends would continue tea ceremony playing backgammon...When game heats up often tea is forgotten, pieces are struck harder on the board (with loud sound to stress good chances of the dice) and winner is anticipating how he would be teasing his friend later saying “well, one day I will teach you how to play backgammon”. And then of course the other player wants to even the score and the excitement continues...Depending on temperament of the players game would be accompanied with laughter, teasing, jokes and stories about previous victories of the players (needless to say that every player insists that he is The professional). My father is playing less backgammon nowadays but I remember very well how he and his close friend would play a game or two at our place and we girls would run in to the room now and then and ask “so, who is winning” and of course the answer from both would be “why are you asking? don’t you know?” We didn’t know but would play up to them and choose one or the other to support or tease...these are very warm and kind memories of my childhood that I cherish very much...

It is still very common to see here and there people playing backgammon in the parks or local tea houses in Azerbaijan. I am not personally a backgammon player but I think that it is the game that can distract from routine and troubles as well as give an opportunity to interact and socialize...something that is happening less and less with games turning into virtual and socializing becoming cyber...

Some pictures on backgammon...

My cousin, Qiyasov Shahin, is specializing in creating beautiful pieces of backgammon from different sorts of wood. With different ornaments and shades depending on type of wood and complexity of work all pieces are handcrafted in his studio in Sheki. Shahin's pieces are in many local and foreign private collections. He can be contacted by following emails f_kh_g@hotmail.com; qiyasli@gmail.com or via this blog.

Shahin's backgammon...

I am not sure if you can see on this photo but actually there are backgammon sessions going on there. I took this photo last summer while in Sheki and since then the photo was waiting for its time to be shared with you...:) Couldn't go closer...feeling kind of shy :)) local mentality you see :)

This is one of my favourite pictures that I took in Kish village of Sheki back in year 2007. You can read my post on this photo here but today it fits perfectly to this post too :)

Spring...peaceful spring...

2010-04-08T22:05:00.014+05:00

It’s April. Spring is almost here but not quite yet...everyone is so much looking forward to it...it is already proven by now that sunny and pleasant weather affects people positively...thus people must be at least a little bit happier when sun rays wake them up in the morning...in March when I travelled to Sheki for Novruz I saw mountains giving in to spring; trees ready to blossom; neat gardens of Sheki waiting to wake up and people excited to see days getting longer and warmer...Isn't it beautiful...

Although they say that we live in era of individualism and egocentrism I believe that war and terror in one part of the world can not mean full peace for somewhere else...at the end of the day a person is a part of the family, country, of planet Earth...I hope that there will be less violence and killings in the world and people around the world including every parent who has his/her son serving in war zone would be able to enjoy their spring...cause without peace there is no spring...

Peaceful spring everyone...:)

mountains giving in to spring...
(photo taken on the road to Sheki, apologies for the quality)
Everything and everyone looking forward to spring...

Mountains...

neat gardens of Sheki...

people...

March in Azerbaijan...

2010-04-05T12:51:00.025+05:00

Dear readers, although its already April I still want to go back and write about March...

...

March is all about holidays in Azerbaijan. We are celebrating Women's Day and continuously welcoming :) Novruz i.e. spring. Novruz is a holiday when people are kind of uniting with nature...since spring is coming, nature is awakening and spring equinox is happening and people are only joining this celebration...no holiday could be more natural than Novruz...

Thus four weeks in advance of actual Novruz we celebrate Tuesdays of water, fire, wind and earth...then celebrate Novruz eve and Novruz day itself. People cook numerous Novruz deserts (March is period of vitamin deficiency thus Novruz pastries are all about butter, nuts, sugar and spices to keep people going (now...who can dispute wisdom of ancestors...)) Gogal, shekerbura and pakhlava are pastries that are found on every table, semeni (growing wheat) sign of Novruz and prosperity of coming year is also there. Everybody is visiting each other and there are many, many other traditions that I hope to mention next year :) But for this year I want to stop here, wish everyone happy spring and post some Novruz photos that I have been collecting to share with you :)

getting ready for festive dinner...spring ash (plov)...every season has its own plov in Sheki and each is delicious in its own way...

Novruz must haves: fried nuts and wheat...

Novruz must have: semeni - growing wheat, symbol of Novruz - sign of well-being;
that cake in a form of gazelle was quite popular in Sheki formerly, not the case nowadays but still very cute to have on the table...not easy to keep children off it though :)

Another symbol of Novruz, pastry called gogal (gogal means round, small bread) that also has spicy filling in this case, is perfect for breakfasts and not only...crispy and delicious...this photo I took on my mobile in my mom's kitchen...God bless her... My favourite pastry of Novruz, pakhlava, as you can see photo was taken after we tried pakhlava :)...mom couldn't convince us to wait until its properly cooled... Pastries of Novruz: shekerbura and pakhlava...
Novruz must-haves: nuts etc...
decorated semeni :)

Khojali (Xocalı) massacre...25-26 February 1992...Azerbaijan...

2010-02-26T23:36:00.005+04:00

...Another year has passed. Azeris are remembering victims of Khojali tragedy. More than 600 innocent people including old people, women and children killed...victims of cruelty, politics, aggression. The event became the largest massacre in the course of Dağlıq Qarabağ (Nagorno-Karabakh) conflict...

Where do people find all the anger to kill another human, a child...where do they find all the hatred...how do they order to proceed...how do they all live with all that responsibility on their shoulders...

May all victims rest in peace...

P.S. You can find my last year posts on Khojali tragedy here and here.

Novruz..."Su Çərşənbəsi"..."Water" Tuesday...

2010-02-23T16:33:00.022+04:00

February is considered the toughest month in Baku in terms of weather. "Tough" implies a day or two of snow when many Bakuvians look out of their windows and take a deep sigh for all the

things they could potentially achieve if not the snow :). Sheki as it should be in mountainous areas is covered with snow for much longer and heavier during winter and usually nobody complains that much. Actually religious and older people in Sheki consider inappropriate complaining about the weather..."who are mere mortals to complain about the weather"...

Baku also has strong "khazri"s (north/cold wind coming from Caspian (Caspian is called Khazar in Azeri)) in February when its almost impossible to walk and wind finds its way anywhere no matter how well everywhere is closed and anybody is buttoned up...

Thus in all this wind and cold when February is still trying to show its character we have first Tuesday of Novruz called "water Tuesday". It's like first warble of birds that one can't really hear yet but wants to hear. It's like a sign of beautiful spring to come. Four weeks in advance of Novruz first Tuesday reminds us to start enjoying anticipation of a greener (but not burnt with sun) and warmer (but not unbearably hot) nature.

Here is what I wrote on "water" Tuesday last year, post that actually talks more about our spring holiday Novruz and how we celebrate awakening of nature, starting from water.

Qircana (Qirjana) river of Sheki
P.S. Let's not waste the water...

To blessed memory of Leyla khanum Akhundzada...

2010-02-15T23:36:00.009+04:00

Last week art community (and not only) of Azerbaijan suffered big loss – Professor, art critic, supporter of many artists in Azerbaijan, curator of numerous exhibitions and projects, including "Aluminium", International Biennale of Contemporary Art, Baku Azerbaijan and Azerbaijan pavilion in Venice Art Biennale, promoter of modern art in Azerbaijan, Leyla khanum Akhundzada, tragically died in a road accident.

This gentle, full of charm and charisma khanum was the professional who was using every opportunity to grow and develop...not only personally but developing, guiding and creating opportunities for people - many artists around her...painters, sculptors, photographers and many more...anyone who had something special to say...show...create...

She was one of rare I would say personalities in Azerbaijan who was not complaining about things that still need to change and develop but saw and noticed, listened and heard, brought up and supported talents, turned ideas into projects, opportunities to realities, knew history, literature and art of her country and was not only the critic, artist, curator, mentor but true cultural ambassador of Azerbaijan. Such an untimely death...

The only thought that somewhat soothes the pain is that Leyla khanum was lucky to leave behind students, projects and ideas...Fortunately her friends and colleagues surrounded her with love, friendship and respect when she was around them...she knew that we all loved her...

Allah rəhmət eləsin...May she rest in peace...

"Beşik"...old-fashioned...no...vintage cot...

2010-02-03T16:58:00.010+04:00

There is a saying in Azerbaijan “aşıq gördüyünü çalar” what translates as - “aşıq”, a musician that plays the instrument called “saz”, sings what he sees, meaning that people talk about what they see or what is “close” to them.

Thus I will continue the subject of children and motherhood and traditions in Azerbaijan :)

Today I will be talking about “beşik”, kind of swinging bed (cot) used for babies in Azerbaijan historically. How long ago? Well, I was a baby in late 1970s and we didn’t have “beşik” in our house in Baku but to bring up children in Sheki “beşik”s were still used then and earlier.

To use “beşik” mothers had to kind of fasten the baby to “beşik” for safety reasons and since babies were swaddled (as everyone believed that swaddling was the proper thing to do as babies wouldn’t wake themselves when moving their hands)…Today in era of democracy and liberalism people might consider “beşik” as the first try to bind and limit babies thus infringing their rights :)

“Beşik” has a kind of accessory where babies can pee and poop, what is very considerate and comfortable; women then had quite a lot to do in their households and diapers were not invented yet (don't ask me how the accessories looked/worked since it is a bit complicated to describe but everything was well thought through and working!) “Beşik”s are quite low and they were comfortable when women would sit on the floor and swing “beşik”s, as well as breastfeed the babies without unwinding them.

Nowadays “beşik”s are mainly kept as family relic and used very rarely (I am not sure about all the regions but I think this is the case for Sheki)…

It was not easy to find picture of “beşik” in internet, this is what I was able to find.

I must say that beautifully made “beşik”s are real pieces of art....and...history...

Greetings from Azerbaijan...

2010-01-28T22:13:00.019+04:00

My dear readers,

Greetings from Baku, Azerbaijan…

After quite a lengthy pause I am happy to be back blogging. While I was away many important things took place. First of all we have all welcomed year 2010…New beginning, new hopes, new plans, new achievements, new joy. Let me use this opportunity and wish all of you Happy New Year!! May this year be healthy, peaceful and wealthy! :) …

Unfortunately life is not always about holidays and festive season. On 20th of January Azerbaijan remembered victims of Soviet Army massacre of 1990. My post of last year devoted to this date can be found here…

We have a saying in Azerbaijan “bir göz ağlayır, bir göz gülür” what translates as “one eye is crying, one eye is smiling” what means that good and bad are often side by side in life…While in sadness or grief happiness might knock on the door and vice-versa…

Between New Year holidays and 20th of January…on 16th of January…I became a mother for the second time. As you would imagine I am still very emotional about the “journey” that women make to become a mother. This joyful and happy occasion that is at the same time tiring and involves quite a bit of pain, I believe is one of the most if not the most amazing miracles of life… We were leaving the hospital on 20th of January, day of mourning in Azerbaijan. It was the day covered with sad memories, the day when people that had courage to say “no” to invasion and “yes” to independence as well as innocent victims were remembered...I was of course full of joy, happiness and gratitude that both the baby and I were going home in good health to begin new page in life of our family. There were also babies born on that day - babies that mean new life, future for Azerbaijan and not only. They are born no matter peace, wars or invasions and no matter what kind of wild apocalypses are predicted - and prove that life continues. We mothers hope and want to believe that they will grow to a better world and play their role in making the world safer, healthier, cleaner and kinder. Wishful thinking?? :)…well...it would be unnatural to hear something else from the woman who gave birth...13 days ago :)…

Be well…and "see" you soon :)

This photo is a courtesy of my relative in Sheki, Vusala Mustafazadeh, who displays her photos on http://mustafazadeh.wordpress.com/. Just wanted you to see how beautiful Sheki is in winter...as well...:)...

...Tar...Mugham...Azerbaijan...

2009-12-09T16:06:00.005+04:00

The other day we were getting ready for my father’s birthday. I knew what to present him…we were going to present him a “tar”. The instrument that he used to play in his childhood…the instrument that would bring back his memories and would be his soul mate when he would be remembering his parents and friends that are not with him any longer…the instrument, love towards music of which he would try to instill in his grandchildren…

Tar is a five string musical instrument that one plays holding against chest…tar can be played solo and together with other instruments…tar is the instrument that any Azeri remembers when speaking about national music and or mugham. Mugham is one of unique forms of Eastern traditional music. To me mugam is music that is mostly understood or comprehended by elder people since for many young people it sounds as too serious or complex. Tar, mugham were not really promoted in Soviet times…generally speaking anything to do with national identity such as speaking Azeri, playing national instruments, enjoying traditional music was not considered “cool” for young people and very appropriate for those who tried to make a career for example. Therefore people like my teacher who was promoting Azeri, Ismikhan Rehimov (İsmixan Rəhimov) were exiled to Siberia and poets such as Mikayil Mushfiq (Mikayıl Müşfiq) that wrote patriotic poems (one of the most famous is his poem about “Tar”) were repressed (Mikayil Mushfiq was repressed/sentenced to death at the age of 31).

Nowadays when Azerbaijan is independent and is trying to find its way in XXI century, mugham is revealed from behind the scenes and enjoyed by all…It is another example that people can only repress people while they cant really repress music, art, something that is eternal; something that exists on its own and just waits for the right people to discover its treasures again and again…In 2003, UNESCO recognized mugham as a Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

Thus nowadays Azerbaijan has beautiful Mugham center in Baku and this year we had a wonderful International Mugham Festival. We have very many young people that seem to be capable and motivated to carry the traditions and skills to future generations with guidance of talented mentors and teachers that were able to preserve their skills and motivation…it is now personal free choice to play or not to play tar, to sing or not to sing mugham…to be a part of this culture or not to be…

Tar...picture that was available on internet...
Mugham center in Baku, Azerbaijan

Qurban Bayram...

2009-11-27T23:00:00.007+04:00

Azerbaijan is celebrating Qurban Bayram...the holiday when every Muslim who can afford sacrifices/slaughters sheep (not only sheep but usually) to show his/her obedience to God and shares the meat with relatives and poor. The holiday when everyone is reminded once more about the importance of sharing and thinking for at least a little while about someone else too...

Here is what I found about this holiday in Wikipedia...

And here is what I wrote about the holiday last year...

Personally for me slaughtering sheep is not only showing obedience but also a way to thank God for life and everything else that comes with it...in moments of pessimism, bad mood, sad occasions its not easy to be positive and/or grateful but I hope and wish that we have plenty of joyful moments and always keep wisdom to stay grateful...they say everything happens for the better...even if we are not able to see/understand it right there...

Be well...and Happy Bayram :)...

Azerbaijan Takes Gold in European Team Chess Championship...

2009-11-06T17:42:00.005+04:00

For any country and especially the one which is newly independent, relatively small and is in war/ceasefire situation more like a beaten party any victory means a lot. This is extra reason for recognition, another achievement, inspiration and motivation that is very necessary…

One of these victories for Azerbaijan is taking gold in European Team Chess Championship this Monday, November 2, 2009. The tournament attracted 38 Open and 28 Women’s teams from across Europe. I am citing the website http://chess.about.com/ which says that above mentioned tournament “much like the European Championships in football which are second only to the World Cup in international competition, is likely the second biggest team competition on the chess schedule after the Olympiad.”

I am happy to see that strong culture of chess playing in Azerbaijan survived hard 90s and is up again nowadays and that young people are motivated to play this serious game and represent their country. Well done and we hope for more victories :)

photo courtesy of http://www.eurons2009.com/eng.htm

P.S. My short post about Sheki children chess school here that I wrote back in 2007.

Traditions...hospitality..."What's ours is yours"...

2009-11-05T18:07:00.000+04:00

While in Sheki I take photos and think of topics that I would talk about in my blog later...There are two things that I want to touch upon today...firstly about photos lower that I took in summer in Sheki...

As much as we try to convince our mom not to bother we know that she would still prepare pickles that we love so much during summer...and here we are...famous :) Sheki white cucumbers (that I wrote about earlier on my blog here) and lavish tufts of herbs and greens are bought and later pickles are ready...but who says that we wait for winter...we start enjoying them as soon as they are ready and mom always says "See, you didn't want me to bother...its the same story each year :)))..."

famous :) Sheki white cucumbers...
lavish tufts of herbs and greens...ready pickles...

Just as my mother many women in Azerbaijan especially in the regions still prepare their own pickles and do other home made food stuff during summer for their families to enjoy during winter...I wrote about this on my blog earlier here.

The second topic that I wanted to mention today is about the theme of my today's post...

When we visit Sheki for just couple of weeks in summer almost all the households and relatives we visit want to treat us with something, give presents, so that we, the guests, do not leave with empty hands as we say here...so they start thinking about what they can offer, what they can surprise us with, people who came from capital or elsewhere...they really think about it and get concerned...and...usually the solution is that they start treating the guests with their home made pickles and jams and give guests more to take back home and enjoy during winter...they give healthy stuff to children of the families telling parents how good one or the other fruit is etc etc. The idea is to share with guests what they have...there is a good saying in Russian "чем богаты, тем и рады" that web translated for me as "what's ours is yours" which is what I am trying to describe in this post...An example of touching and sincere gesture of sharing and hospitality.

Traditions...hospitality...

2009-11-02T16:29:00.003+04:00

Excuses, excuses, excuses...I won't start counting mine for not writing for so long lately...

Today I want to write about traditions and a little bit about hospitality...

Tradition in Sheki requires :) whenever there are guests in the household housewife or anyone appropriate such as grown up girls in the house should arrange the shoes of visitors/guests in pairs...shoes should look "outside" so that it is easier for guests to put them on when they are leaving the house. As I can explain this tradition to myself this makes the entrance look tidier and additional comfort for guests is ensured (this is one of the pillars of hospitality in Azerbaijan - guests must be made as comfortable as possible. Personally I think that this started to work less in modern life, as people i.e. guests started to abuse concept of hospitality, but this is another subject :) Households are bigger in the regions including Sheki comparing to capital. Therefore when one has at least one family visiting, you would have numerous shoes at the entrance. Tradition also says that people should take off shoes when entering the house, since home is home and outside is outside. I agree with this for hygienic reasons and not only but again nowadays when one is dressed up and high heels are a part of this "ensemble", taking off shoes ruins this all :)) Not taking off shoes is more and more common for special events in Baku and sometimes in Sheki, but generally if you are just visiting then shoes are taken off and slippers are offered instead.

So...when I visit Sheki and see how carefully traditions like this are observed it gives me hope that they would be passed on to younger generations. Personally I like this very tradition and try to preserve it in our household...although again flexibility is a must :)

Below are photos of examples of "pairing the guests shoes concept" in practice :) in Sheki...

Sheki, Azerbaijan...

2009-08-30T15:47:00.007+05:00

My dear readers, thank you very much for visiting my blog and also for leaving your comments.

I am just back from my trip to Sheki and in coming days and weeks I will try sharing with you my photos and thoughts. Before I start writing this post I want to tell that you could check out the archive of this blog if you are interested in more information and photos as I have been writing here since 2007...

For those of you who are new to this blog and don’t know or hear for the first time about Azerbaijan – Azerbaijan is the country that borders with Iran (765 km) and Turkey (15 km) in the south, Russia in the north (300 km), Georgia in the north-west (480 km) and Armenia in the west (1007 km). The territory also includes Nakhichevan Autonomous Republic and Azerbaijani sector of the Caspian Sea. Azerbaijan is in war/ceasefire situation with Armenia over its 20% of territory including Dağlıq Qarabağ (Nagorniy Karabakh) area.

With 86,600 square km of territory and around 8.6 million of population Azerbaijan is blessed with nine climate zones out of "available" eleven and rich natural resources including so “popular” nowadays oil and gas.

My parents originally come from town called Sheki in north-west of the country, city that historically was located on Silk Route, is famous for its cuisine and humour and is surrounded with beautiful and impressive mountains...Mountains that are there to stay no matter who comes and goes, which regime rules and what people do. Examples of grandness of nature they look very proud, beautiful and wise to me…whenever I visit Sheki I make sure to raise my eyes and smile at them and “acknowledge” their presence…thus in Sheki nature gave us the opportunity to look up at sky enjoying the mountains and in capital Baku to look far at horizon enjoying the Caspian Sea…

Today I am posting the photos of the same landscapes and the same mountains that I might have posted before hoping that you will also find these scenes beautiful and not tiring to enjoy again and again…

beautiful nature "hiding" human imperfection...

some mountains are "fluffy", some "shaggy" :) these ones are definitely "fluffy" :)...
view from my granddad's, now uncles' street...this is not technically perfect picture, but the mountains are so close and pretty that I am posting the photo as it is...sorry...

Season of watermelons or watermelon story :))

2009-07-28T14:40:00.003+05:00

Experience says that best, meaning tasty and ecologically safe watermelons are usually available in Azerbaijan starting each August...but of course watermelons start to appear in June, July...Elder people wisely say that these must be either greenhouse watermelons or at least not sweet and juicy enough ones...but of course later they give up and here watermelon season is officially open...

Now I must say that in Azerbaijan (as most probably in many other places) watermelons are not bought in slices...but are bought as one (at least) whole watermelon...

Let me also mention here one Azeri phrase which is "əli boş"...which means "empty handed" and "əli dolu" which means "full handed"...these are notions that everyone inherits here genetically...thus anyone who visits someone else would usually take something in his/her hands...box of chocolates, some other sweets (the list can get creative depending if visited place has children, elder people, occasions etc etc)...So in summer one of the best options is...to get a watermelon and take it to the household you visit...the only risk is how delicious would be the watermelon...there are many tricks on choosing the watermelon, the one I know is to "knock" on the berry (yes, watermelon is a berry :) and the sound of good fruit would be sonorous (found this word in dictionary, meaning that it has to be a clear sound :). Many sellers would agree to cut the fruit so that you can check at least the colour but the real guru is the person who can choose without cutting and if the choice is good then the "chooser" is the star of the evening when the fruit is cut and shared among all and everyone is praising the choice and how sweet, refreshing and juicy and tasty the watermelon is :))

There is another tradition that I will try to explain, the circle around "tail" of the watermelon is demonstratively cut, then divided to four pieces, then everyone makes a wish and the pieces are thrown on the ground, depending on the combination that people thought of they would know if their wishes come true :) I am not sure about origin of this habit and maybe this is a confusing description but this is extra fun that is added to the session of cutting the watermelon and causes extra laughter and joy :)

I am almost over...but there is another thing that I must mention besides I have good pictures for that :) ... watermelon goes best with white cheese and also depending how hungry you are with thin bread made in "təndir", tandir bread (I hope you know about tandir, this requires a separate post :) This combination is very tasty, believe me :)

watermelons everywhere...

concept of "əli dolu" i.e. "full handed"

watermelon and cheese combination - almost a must on Azeri table...

ad which talks re above :) ...it says...watermelon and cheese...love story on your table :))

choice was good! :)

Baku boulevard...100 years old now...

2009-07-15T14:57:00.000+05:00

Today I will be writing about Baku Boulevard.

A little bit of history (information taken from http://deyerler.org/ and http://www.azadliq.org/): Baku boulevard’s foundation was laid in 1909 when Mohammad Hasan Hajinski made a speech in Baku Duma (equivalent of Parliament) and suggested to create boulevard for leisure times of Bakuvians…This is when decision was made to start the works and here we are in 2009 celebrating 100 years of our Baku boulevard…

Since 2008 boulevard started to gain a new appearance: pavements became smoother, lawns greener, cafes prettier, fountains bigger and more sophisticated and overall the whole boulevard cleaner. Personally I enjoy this total transformation very much and hope that there will be constancy and continuity in cleanliness and good service. In hot summer days boulevard is very crowded…but then…unless people have other places to have long walks and enjoy sea breeze this is very natural…Works are now continuing, a lot still needs to be done and they say that length of the boulevard will also be extended to 25 km from existing 3 km 750 m…so this should help…

Although it is very popular nowadays to be unhappy with any changes or reconstruction and there are always opinions and rumours how something could have been much better and how less money could have been spent etc etc…personally I am happy to see cleaner, greener and prettier boulevard and hope that it will be even better. There also needs to happen a major transformation in people’s minds to realise that this is actually their city and to keep it clean and pretty is also their duty…I am afraid this will take some time though and would require penalties :)

sorry for so many photos just trying to convey the atmosphere...:)

everything starts with an idea - Mohammad Hasan Hajinski came up with the idea of Baku boulevard...May he rest in peace!...

old boulevard...

new boulevard:

new cafes...

reconstruction is continuing...

the same Caspian better seaside :)

new fountains...

new pavement...

new attractions...

Michael Jackson...-...person of the Universe...

2009-07-13T12:27:00.006+05:00

I wanted to write about Michael Jackson…it is strange how people say so many good things after the person passes away…it is the same everywhere…well good things are said not about everyone after death…but…I mean that why don’t we praise when people are still alive and can actually hear and enjoy the praise…Michael most probably never lacked love of his fans, he must have felt that love during all his life…life that seemed quite interesting and different…I don’t think anybody knows exactly what was happening in his heart and mind…and I hope that with all his talent he was a happy person at the end of the day.

I assume that Michael maybe never knew about this part of the world and for example about Azerbaijan but there are many fans here who love and know his songs and moves and are his fans and have sympathy (to say the least) towards his talent.

One of the greatest achievements for one’s life must be ability, talent to create/cause sympathy, respect, love, positive energy and adoration in people’s, in strangers’ hearts with your talent, your genius, your way of life…no matter where those other people live, which language they speak etc etc…Michael achieved that in his own way…May he rest in peace…

I have taken below photos from Internet...

They say Michael was never happy enough with his appearance...his fans most probably would had loved him anyway he looked...but the main thing I suppose is if the person is happy personally...within...

This is how Michael wanted us to see and know him..apparently...

June in Sheki...

2009-07-12T01:03:00.001+05:00

My dear readers, I am very happy to be back...thank you for sending me your notes asking if I was ok and the reason why I was not blogging...thank you very much for your support! I appreciate it very much! Everything is great, thank you! and here I am

I was planning to write this post in June but I am writing it only now...this is what I wanted to write at that time...

June is the month when many students are going back to Sheki for their summer holidays or grandchildren go to spend their summer with grannies and grandpas. Month when parents and grandparents are anticipating their favourite children and grandchildren to come back home planning to cook children's favourite dishes...to them no matter how old children get they are still someone to take care of...I must say that culture in Azerbaijan still continues to be such that parents take care of their children and then continue to take care of their grandchildren till the end of their lives ...this care never finishes...young people of course often complain that they need more freedom but all of them definitely enjoy delicious dishes and extreme care...this "giving" nature is something that I am afraid is less common and popular nowadays especially among younger generations...nevertheless...currently my kid is with my parents in Sheki...who took him there knowing that their vacation would turn into an active and at times very tiring way of spending their free time...but they do it and do it with pure love and self-sacrifice...Different books say that children that are taken care by grannies are more spoiled but happier since there is tremendous love around them. Well, at the end of the day I think grannies definitely believe that as The Beatles sang "All you need is love"...:)

Today I am posting a photo that dates back to late 50s or early 60s of last century I am not sure...Photo is taken in Sheki with my grand-grand mother and her grandchildren (not all of them are there I think). Granny Mina had very hard times and years during her life but her children and grandchildren were her highest reward...

Sorry for the quality of photo but I thought I would share it with you as to me it is very warming and conveys the family tradition that I am touching upon in this post...be well :)

28th of May - Republic Day in Azerbaijan

2009-05-28T22:15:00.004+05:00

28th of May is celebrated as Republic Day in Azerbaijan, the day when Democratic Republic of Azerbaijan was declared, Act of Independence of Azerbaijan was adopted...in 1918...first Democratic Republic in the Orient...Republic lasted then for 23 months only...Soviet Army rushed in and following 70 years or so were spent "under" supervision of "big brother"...

The second time Republic was declared in 1991. Years that are left behind were not easy. Doubtful socialism was replaced by hasty capitalism...people were "lost in transition", beliefs were shaken...other "well-wishers" jumped in....borders opened...anything that reminded of any structure was not working and had to be build up again...generations that lived most of their life times in Soviet Union found it very hard to adapt...

Today is 28th of May of year 2009. People always have objective and subjective reasons to prefer the past or present times...what can I say? I never had a big brother per se...I had people around me that could give advice and show the way but I was free to make my own decisions, choices, mistakes and little victories. I prefer to take my own responsibility and be free. I guess the same applies to my country. Azerbaijan has rich history, natural and human resources and potential...the land that it is located on as any other land does not need much but only to be taken care of...people that live here want to make their own choices, travel, study, work, have families and enjoy life, peaceful life...they hope not to become victims of politics and wars...

It is a beautiful early summer evening in Baku...I had a nice walk in the city...Baku wind was cool and refreshing...city was not very crowded as it is a holiday...everything was very peaceful...I was thinking about my little post...people that were/are struggling to create a democratic and free Republic were/are most probably trying to create something similar...that people just like I could safely wander in the city, have tea in cafes, have freedom to study and work, make their little and big choices...and be themselves with pride and honor...I was passing by a flagpole, I looked up at the flag and it felt nice as always...I hope our colorful flag (blue stands for "Turkic", red for "modern, progressive", green for "Islam") always waves proudly and freely...in blue skies of Azerbaijan Republic…

May in Sheki, Azerbaijan...

2009-05-21T11:48:00.010+05:00

Weather in Azerbaijan starts getting really nice in May…anyone who has the opportunity travels to the regions to enjoy refreshing weather, bright colors and nature overall…

My family and friends also managed to escape to Sheki and brought me some pictures that I want to share with you…

May is a season of poppies…Fields of these gentle flowers are everywhere…it is preferable not to gather these flowers since they “die” very quickly as soon they are gathered…they are meant to be watched/observed/enjoyed/adored with no interference…

Last day of April this year was very tragic for Azerbaijan…then as it always happens life went one, spring brought back hopes and optimism. 9th of May (Victory Day in Azerbaijan) reminded victory over fascism, of those who sacrificed their lives for future of their countries and children hoping that future generations will be wiser not to make wars but enjoy life…

Gift that we received during this May is 3rd place that Azerbaijan got in Eurovision contest. Imagine what kind of euphoria it brought to this relatively newly independent country. Yes, we know that Eurovision is not only about music but still it felt great that countries did vote for our song…Big thanks to all supporters of our song "Always" performed by Aysel and Arash...!!! and enjoy the photos :)

beautiful Sheki...beautiful Azerbaijan...
don't interfere...nature took care of it all...
fields of poppies...to adore...nothing else...

Last day of April 2009 in Azerbaijan...

2009-04-30T22:52:00.007+05:00

Sometimes we think that certain things can never happen to us or that on a beautiful spring weather only good things can take place...wrong assumption...terrorism can happen towards anyone and terrors may take place on any day...

Unfortunately 30 April 2009 in memories of many families in Azerbaijan will stay as the day when their children went to university and never returned home. Today gunman shot to death at least 13 people in Oil Academy of Azerbaijan in Baku and many are heavily wounded. We don't know the reasons yet...and no reason will return those innocent victims (Allah rəhmət eləsin - Peace be with all victims).

I think any parent and not only would share this grief...how come some children grow into monsters? why there were/are people "thank" to whom there are words like terrorist, sadist and maniac?...why would someone go and kill everyone he meets in the corridor?...for money? revenge? due to mental sickness (when the person does not do anything to himself but to others for some reason)...why there is so much hatred in some people towards other people?...

Today I am not posting any photos...enough elaborating on hatred and violence...it looks like it has never been and it is still not enough just to wish for peace...countries and people are fighting for their safety and peace...I hope as civilians we could help the planet at least by "spreading" love and by bringing up happy and loving children...I am writing this and I am not sure if only this is enough...I am not sure...tragedies like today make one doubt everything...

Be well...

Unknown Azerbaijan...First female opera composer in the Orient - Shafiga Akhundova...

2009-04-14T23:18:00.010+05:00

I was brought up in a family where praising yourself was considered as impolite and inappropriate…one of the most common things that I remember is my father saying “one should not praise herself in front of the others, let others do it…” the same applied to praising once children before others etc…I call it humbleness and modesty that hopefully will be still existent in lets say XXII century...currently they are under big "pressure"...

Years passed…I grew up…saw other people…started analysing…now I can draw almost a clear line between what my dad used to say and what my country was doing…never phrasing its children in front of others and waiting for/expecting others to do it…and that does not happen very often…

Lately thankfully Azerbaijan started working on its PR and if I may say “marketing” but we are very behind and historically have missed the opportunity of creating THE image of Azerbaijan…left it to others to do???

To prove the above I have a rhetoric question: how many people around the world know that first (!) female (!) opera composer (!) in the Orient is lady named Shafiga Akhundova who is actually Azerbaijani and who is actually from Sheki...

Ms Shafiga Akhundova was born in 1924 in Sheki. She graduated from Baku Musical School and Azerbaijan State Conservatory. In 1972 (!) she composed opera "Maiden Rock" thus becoming the first woman to create opera in the East. Shafiga xanum is the author of wonderful songs "Leyla", "Happy Land", operetta "Our home, our secret" (1965), pieces for string quartet, dramatic plays "Aydin", "Farewell to India!" "What do you live for?" etc and music to children's plays such as "A tale of a clown", "Birthday of a rabbit", etc.

One might argue who cares about who knows/who doesn’t...but if we recall Maslow's hierarchy of needs then I guess everyone cares...

Today’s post is devoted to Shafiga xanum who turned 85 in 2009, to her amazing talent and to her contribution to not only Azeri culture but if I may say to world-wide one...

below photo was taken around two years ago in Sheki when my father-in-law, Aslan Rustamov (another gifted Shekili), went over to visit Shafiga xanum in her summer house...

Childhood - spring of ones lifetime...

2009-04-01T22:40:00.008+05:00

Last three years or so Novruz is celebrated during quite a long time in Azerbaijan…around a week. Working mothers like I have a chance to spend more time with their little ones (what sometimes might seem more tiring than working:), to make amazing, funny and sweet discoveries…There is a saying in Azerbaijan “Uşaq olan evdə qeybət olmaz” what means “there is no gossip in homes where there are children”…it implies that children keep everyone so busy that women do not find time for gossiping (hopefully :)

Childhood is definitely spring of ones life time. Like spring...by the time you realize, notice and appreciate it, childhood is gone…the same thought comes to me when I observe the child, time flies and babies change so quickly…everyday they do something new and here the next day yesterday's something new is gone...spring in Baku is also very short...every day a new flower, another green tree and one wonders - when did all this happen...where was I looking...and then one day it is already summer...

In Russian they say “погода шепчет…” meaning weather is whispering me…I can not convey how beautiful the weather was for a couple of days this week in Baku, nature was definitely whispering beautiful songs of blue sky, warming sun, gentle breeze, bird songs and children laughter…song of awakening nature...spring…it was whispering “take a moment, notice me…”

Below I am posting photos that I believe will better explain what I mean above...these photos are taken by people who do notice spring :) These are my niece, Fatma Giyasova, who not only enjoyed but also took photos precisely for my blog while in Sheki during Novruz (let me thank you in public, Fatma) and Fakhriyya Mammadova whose eyes catch miracles easily and thankfully she shares her photos with us...

Shortly these buds will open up, tree will blossom, bear fruits...this will happen very quickly...do you know what I mean?...courtesy of Fakhriyya...
Bees are getting excited :) ...courtesy of Fakhriyya...

Springs in Absheron peninsular (where Baku is located) are so short...courtesy of Fakhriyya

This isn't snow...this is apricot tree in blossom..isn't this amazing...courtesy of Fatma...

Apricot tree blossoms...closer view...courtesy of Fatma

Its the way you make me feel...

2009-03-19T10:26:00.006+04:00

One of main purposes of my blog is raising awareness about Azerbaijan…

Therefore as you would imagine when I get emails as below and as this one I am happy to see that the blog serves its purpose…

I also appreciate very much that people take their time and actually leave comments and send me feedback. It “fuels” my energy and makes me feel good what hopefully results in better stories and pictures :) Thank you! :)

_________________________________________________________

Hi Ayten

Recently I started a writing group here in the Blue Mountains west of Sydney, Australia. One of our projects was to find a country we’ve never been to, and make up a character who lives there! Fun, eh? I chose, just because I love the word, Azerbaijan. My character lives in Baku. I can’t tell you how useful your blog has been to me, it gives me an up-close-and-personal view of how daily life is lived in your town. I’ve read some of the tragic history too, which you would all have simmering away in your consciousness; but it’s lovely to see how celebratory your attitude is to everything. I think Azerbaijanis must be tough and resilient.

Thanks again

Alison Jones

Novruz holiday is knocking the door..."earth" Tuesday evening...

2009-03-17T01:02:00.009+04:00

Today is last Tuesday evening when signs of nature are noted or celebrated as part of Novruz holiday.

Unfortunately last Tuesday I wasn’t able to write about wind Tuesday…I was thinking to write that they say that Baku means city of winds and this wind makes sometimes hot and humid summers a bit bearable but also makes winters much colder than thermometers show...They say that in the past, when the area of Baku was empty and there were less constructions to break the wind, people could actually stand on the wind…so strong it used to be…nowadays wind can get quite strong too…cold wind that comes from Caspian is called khazri (xəzri in Azeri, Khazar (Xəzər) is how Caspian Sea is called in Azeri) and warm wind is called gilavar. How poetic is this…

This Tuesday is evening of earth sign of nature…I guess the most important sign. I say the most important cause it was the first and main reason why people started to fight with each other…Earth said: “I will feed you and amaze you, all you need is to take care of me, love me and enjoy…but people thought that more they have of it better and started wars to occupy as much of it as possible in the meantime forgetting what they needed the earth for in the first place…”

Nowadays when traveling and moving around are usual state of living for many people, when quite often under asphalt and among skyscrapers one can’t even see the earth, belonging to some place is not even relevant. I remember my grandma who had to move to Baku since her health wasn’t allowing her to stay alone in Sheki. She was not able to hide that she hated buildings and asphalt of the city, she wanted back to her land where she could take deep breath and feel the earth…of course she wasn’t describing it that way, she simply wanted home…and we took her home so that she could spend her last spring there, feeling the earth under her feet…(last Tuesday evening of Novruz is the day to remember all who are not with us any more...)

This Tuesday evening is considered as the most festive…with candles on the table, dishes cooked and sweets prepared people are celebrating the awakening of earth…spring is coming and rejuvenating nature will bring hopes and love or hopes for love to everyone…

It is not easy to grasp all merits and not only of civilization and continue to remember and appreciate what is really important…Novruz helps us to do it.

Be well :)

click on picture to see it big and beautiful :)

Happy 8th of March!!! Post devoted to silent heroes (no actually heroines)...

2009-03-08T14:49:00.010+04:00

Today is 8th of March, not just another calendar year, but also the day celebrated by some countries as Women's Day.

My post today is not devoted to emancipated, somewhat feminist women but to self-sacrificing, low profile, hard working women that mainly devote themselves to men and upbringing of their children then grand children and other family members...Above photo was taken sometime in 1940es in Sheki...all those women were/are mainly mothers, sisters and wives and after women if I may say so. They were/are mainly engaged in house chores and family duties and many of them did not even think (or maybe they did but never showed) that they should complain etc.

I remember my grandmother (also pictured above) who was ready to take care of us members of her family, days and days and do everything to please us, prepare something tasty and create comfort. When we went to Sheki in winter and weather was cold she was the one to prepare warm water and breakfast so that we wake up to beautiful smells and warm kitchen. Although she was the oldest she seemed to be the most energetic and proactive...I am thinking now that her energy must have been coming from her love and kindness to her family.

Another thought that comes to me is that those women were shy to come to the city as their heads were mainly covered and they did not think that they were as beautifully dressed or as "good" as urban women. It happens nowadays too and I always want to protect them and convince that it does not matter what they are dressed in, their inner beauty, kindness and giving nature means much more than polished nails or ostentatious looks...

They say woman stands for wisdom. The woman that you see in the centre of above picture (my great-grandmother) and many other women alike her were the core of the families and they "radiated" wisdom, kindness and love and wisely directed their families including men in a subtle or if necessary powerful way.

Slogan :) of my today's post is "let there always be women and let there always be wisdom" :)

Chocolates, flowers and perfume...

2009-03-07T12:12:00.000+04:00

I think chocolate, flowers and perfume are the most popular products couple of days before and on 8th of March not only in Azerbaijan but everywhere where Women's Day is celebrated.

We are having beautiful weather in Baku which is singing beauty and love songs to all who want to hear :) Women look even more gorgeous as they feel and anticipate even more attention. Small or big gifts and flowers, chocolates and smiles are everywhere...:)

There are also always those who prejudice the purpose and date of the holiday etc etc...my personal opinion is that why to doubt? Isn't it better to have another occasion to celebrate life? ;) Women's day is on 8th of March but since this day happens to be Sunday this year, business women were congratulated on Friday and celebrations continue now :) I am not sure about other countries but we Azeris do not mind having long celebrations...I say its because we are southern country...maybe that is the reason we love music, dancing and women :)

Be well :)

P.S. attached photo is not mine but downloaded from internet...

Novruz holiday is knocking the door..."fire" Tuesday..."Od Çərşənbəsi"...

2009-03-03T13:09:00.004+04:00

This Tuesday is the eve of "Od Çərşənbəsi" meaning "Fire Tuesday/Wednesday". The thing is that although it is called "Od Çərşənbəsi" we celebrate the eve not çərşənbə i.e. not Wednesday...anyway these are just technicalities :)

Fire...those who know the history of Zoroastrianism and know a bit about Azerbaijan might have heard that there is a zoroastrian pilgrimage in suburbs of Baku and that fire is somewhat sacred in this "odlar yurdu" i.e. land of fire i.e. Azerbaijan...this territory historically hid reserves of oil and gas that caused flames of fire and this was of course interpreted as blessing by superstitious people and capital by practical people...

Fire is another sign of nature that is celebrated during Novruz. Fire means warmth and comfort...I hope there is more warmth and comfort in our homes and hearts than anything else...

Unknown Azerbaijan...Khojali (Xocalı) massacre...25-26 February 1992...

2009-02-26T11:03:00.009+04:00

It must have been different historically but ever since Black January in 1990 carnations in Azerbaijan are only associated with grief and mourning...this graceful flowers "bend their heads" as it is said in one of Azeri songs as if apologising for human violence and trying to heal the "wounds" of those whose memory, heart and soul are in pain...

Once something is done that is it...it happened...what can be done after...words said, speeches made - but thats just noise...monuments erected, flowers put, events held - but thats just vanity...

I hope that Khojali massacre was the last violance to happen in the territories of Azerbaijan...words said and things done post factum just do not help...there is Azeri saying that says "hər şeyə əlac var ölümdən başqa"..."there is a cure to everything except death"...hopefully people of XXI century will be able if not to stop but at least decrease violance resulting in murders and terrorism not only in Azerbaijan but everywhere on this planet...may sound naive...but everything starts with a dream...

Unknown Azerbaijan...Khojali (Xocalı) massacre...25-26 February 1992...

2009-02-24T17:14:00.013+04:00

Khojali (Xocalı) massacre happened in 1992 when I was 16...I remember shock of ordinary people in Baku about how cruel people could be and how close, geographically, that cruelty was to Baku (although it would be enough to remember Black January of 1990)...

Khojali is/was a small town in Daglig Garabag (Nagorno Karabag) area of Azerbaijan that is currently occupied. This small little known town surrounded by mountains became an obstacle on occupant army's way and without thinking twice the army decided to "walk over" the population of the village thus clearing the obstacle i.e. village...I assume "strategy" was also to show to enemy i.e. Azerbaijan how determined the occupant can be etc etc...

Some people that survived came to Baku...That year my father and his team were helping out with food to 27 families that found refuge in one of the hostels in Baku...Dad was not talking about this with us children but I remember him coming home gloomy and tired after another visit to hostel and talking with mom in the kitchen...about destroyed lives, children that are left without parents, horror stories that he was hearing from people that made it...

17 years have passed...those children must have grown up by now...those kind of children/people exist in every war zone, people that have to pay the price with their lives, with lives of their children...people that become toys in hands of politicians and/or people full of endless hatred...

Each year on February 25 and 26 Azerbaijani people remember the victims and hostilities that took place in Khojali. Allah rəhmət eləsin...May they rest in peace…

Novruz holiday is knocking the door..."water" Tuesday..."Su Çərşənbəsi"...

2009-02-24T15:19:00.004+04:00

When I think about four elements of nature the first thing I recall is The Fifth Element movie. If you have watched it at the end of that movie heroes need to "break" mystery and those were four elements of nature etc etc...

Anyway...today...is first Tuesday when we "acknowledge" approach of Novruz in Azerbaijan and this Tuesday is "water" Tuesday as we call it here. May sound confusing...Please read my earlier post on Novruz here so that you have some info on our tradition to celebrate beginning of spring...before we celebrate actual Novruz we start four or so weeks earlier by celebrating each element of nature every Tuesday...i.e. we may start thinking about sweets that need to be prepared for holidays, make fire or just start getting cheerful :) It is believed that in nature water is renewed first of all and then everything else...If you are in Azerbaijan and say spill water by accident don't get surprised if you hear people saying to you "su aydınlıqdır" meaning that water is purity and you shouldn't worry...or if many people want to drink water we say "yol böyüyün, su kiçiyindir" meaning that oldest people should be let to walk in/out first but water firstly is served to youngest (sorry for this hasty and awkward translation...) not sure if these beliefs have anything to do with Novruz but just so that you know :) Su çərşənbəniz mübarək! Happy Water Tuesday! :)

Unknown Azerbaijan...Turkmenchay treaty...10 February 1828...

2009-02-11T11:59:00.003+04:00

Turkmenchay treaty has been signed as a result of 2nd Russia-Iran war between Russia and Iran in Turkmenchay village on 10 February 1828. Signing ceremony was attended by famous Russian writer A.S.Griboyedov and Azerbaijan's progressive figure A.A.Bakikhanov, who was interpreting at the signing ceremony. Initial treaty on dividing Azerbaijan between Russia and Iran was signed in 1813 and is called Gulustan treaty. (info taken from Wikipedia in Azeri)

As it is more or less obvious by now this was the only way to exist for small and rich Azerbaijan...its territory was divided into khanlıqs (territories ruled by Khans) and each khan preferred to be on its own, pseudo-independent, rather than unite with any other local khan...neighbours were big and strong...and Azerbaijan with Caspian Sea shore, no general goal and strategy, rich natural resources...no army.

Currently in ex Soviet Republic, Azerbaijan, reside around 8 million 700 people...I am not sure about number of Azerbaijanis in Iran, some data say around 20 million.

Movie review: Slumdog Millionaire

2009-02-10T12:08:00.011+04:00

Every time I visit London I make sure I go to movies. Back at home we still have only one up to date cinema with London priced tickets and Russian dubbed movies…Lately I don’t even mind going to a movie alone, something that would seem weird to me before due to prejudices of youth…not any more. All I need is a movie and maybe a coke. Is this considered an advertisement? Well, don’t drink it. Its bad for your health. Does it balance now? :) Of course when possible I prefer going especially to romantic movies with my spouse who actually prefers fantasy and doesn’t like “girlie” movies at all but does not want me to go to cinema alone and would prefer coming along and “suffering” through the whole movie…Something to do with Azeri mentality that I don’t mind in this case actually :)

During my last trip I watched “Changeling” that left me paranoid and depressed for quite a while therefore this time it had to be something positive. I knew that I wanted to see “Slumdog Millionaire”. So I did…
Those who know me and saw the movie might have already guessed that I have wept the whole movie. It made me laugh too but mostly stroke again with discoveries about human cruelty and again cruelty, arrogance, ignorance and love, love, love :)

I have a dilemma. How do I bring up a child teaching him to trust and love people and at the same time not to believe to all he meets, sees and hears…

The movie is about real horrors that we know that exist but we don’t want to face/think/notice…one of the reasons being that we cant really change much about many things in life and prefer to be isolated in our own comfort zone…nowadays even sometimes getting extreme in this isolation…The movie proved once more Madagascar's King Julien's saying that some or many people think that “nothing personal but they are better than others” and what wise mentor tortoise from Kung Fu Panda used to say that “accidents are not accidental”…Actually destiny or as we call it here “qismət” is quite strong in traditions, culture and beliefs in Azerbaijan. Therefore main character’s often said “its destiny” is very understandable to me.

Older generations in Azerbaijan as anywhere else in former USSR grew with Indian movies. I wonder if this played some role in their maturing to kind and loving people. Indian movies always have a good ending, at least they used to, evil never wins, however it tries and happiness and love are constant winners. Another thing so comfortable about Indian movies is that they do not have intimate scenes which makes life of any Azeri family easier as usually men and women, brothers and sisters or different generations watch movies together and are able to watch the movie uninterruptedly without switching the channels for a while with guessed timing to go back to watching the movie or girls suddenly going to bring tea or starting to talk to each other etc – all these awkward things happening during intimate scenes of other movies, since mentality and tradition still do not “allow” watching all this collectively…

I wonder if we in my country would be once as brave and confident as those who shot “Slumdog Millionaire” to expose the issues of our country. I am not sure if we can afford it currently though. My wishful thinking hopes that maybe by the time we would afford it we won’t have those issues any longer…

Any Indian movie has dance in its script, many dances. It was great to see that movie makers did not compromise on this tradition and had it even so at the end of the movie when the story was over. I envied movie makers chance to capture so many issues in one movie speaking to the whole world at once. Bravo.

The movie brought big picture back to me, distancing me from annoying little nuisances of life reminding to be grateful, positive and loving no matter what I see or what I hear.

P.S. Edited and shortened version of the article here.

P.P.S. Today (22.02.2009) Slumdog Millionaire got an Oscar. Bravo!! Well deserved!! Congratulations to everyone in the team!! :)

Hippodrome...Bine, Azerbaijan

2009-02-09T15:08:00.008+04:00

I am not sure about the regions but we have two hippodromes in Baku, one in the city and one in one of Baku villages, called, Bine (Binə). Although I am not personally into horse riding it is great to know that this is something available and quite affordable in Azerbaijan...Albeit it took me years to actually go and visit Bine hippodrome I am happy that I did go at the end and saw those graceful and truly beautiful horses. For those especially children who are at ease with horses experience is truly peaceful and full of harmony...something that I enjoy observing a lot.

Love is in the air...what can be better for children...

Getting to know the horse...

Thankfully horses have lots of space...

Tea...Quince jam...

2009-01-23T11:26:00.006+04:00

Recently I had dinner with people who were able to recite love poems...it was a very pleasant experience...as poetry always is...

Since I am still under impression of poetry...please forgive my below kind of poetic description of "hayva mürəbbəsi" i.e. quince jam :) ...I wrote earlier about our tea tradition and that we often have it with "mürəbbə" Azeri kind of jam...These are pictures of quince jam...On a cold winter day quince jam is like a sun that shines on a snow white table cloth...Those who are fond of "mürəbbə" in general appreciate this golden sour-sweet jam with rich flavour. I will share with you a secret...Next time you visit Azerbaijan and go to a restaurant order as many types of jams as the place can offer or you would be able to taste...until then I will keep you posted on different types of jams available...

As we say here "аğzınız şirin olsun" that means "let your mouth be sweet" or "have a sweet mouth" :) as weird as it may sound in English this sounds very proper and natural in Azeri. Please let me know if you can think of a better translation :)

Quince jam...which is not a jam per se...it is "mürəbbə" :)

Quince and quince jam...

Numerous guests and continuous tea sessions are a norm in Azerbaijan

Unknown Azerbaijan...19-20 January, 1990…

2009-01-19T14:57:00.003+04:00

USSR era ended for Azerbaijan with last massacre Soviet Army has brought upon it on 19-20 January, 1990…

In short Azerbaijan Republic had declared independence and Soviet Army entered on tanks and with Kalashnikovs in their hands to show power and who was in charge... Although USSR government knew that USSR was collapsing and Republics were going independent, government didn’t want to give away the last chance of showing its deep hatred toward free minds and people I must say in general…

I wouldn’t go further on government and army but just would say that the head of USSR at that time was Mikhail Gorbachev.

I will neither go into details of wildness when tanks were going over armless people and soldiers were shooting to every window they saw light in…

Years of repression and organized crime towards people’s identity and self esteem were finalized with that last massacre that ended lives of 170 people including six women and nine children and teenagers; 370 people were wounded...

Azerbaijanis have short memory for cruelties the nation went through its history...its modern history…this is a forgiving and peaceful nation that pays the price…

I am a woman, mother, spouse and sister and I don’t believe into wars and revenge. To me the most valuable thing on planet Earth is a life of a person, of any person…We had two explosions in Baku tube during last ten years…The country is in ceasefire but now and then coffins of some young guys go back to their homes and ruin lives of their families…I am following the news from places like Gaza, Afghanistan, Pakistan, Iraq, civil wars in Africa and it is unfortunate to see what people are doing...Excuse me for this nonsense but I always say that whoever gives ok to war must be “made pregnant”, have really bad pregnancy period, then have hard delivery, bring up the child and then made to send that grown up child to a war to become a victim…maybe this will make those people realize that their ideas and ambitions are not worth any person’s life and any mother’s tear…

20 January is the day Azerbaijanis pay tribute to those who gave their lives for the country's independence...

Photo: At Shahidlar Khiyabani (Martyr's Cemetary), 1990. By Reza

Ay means Moon in Azerbaijani...

2009-01-15T23:18:00.011+04:00

The year I was born, 1976, name Ayten (Aytən in Azeri), was very popular in Azerbaijan. Therefore when I went to university there were at least four girls in the same group whose name were Ayten :)

Ay means Moon in Azerbaijani and we have numerous names associated with Moon: Aytekin, Aysel, Aynur etc etc....these names usually mean moon light, someone who "is" half moon, looks like moon etc etc...Women with kind of round face, shaped eyebrows and almond-shaped eyes were considered as "Moon face" if I can say so in the past and considered as ideal beauties in the East...

The reason I wrote the above is that today I am posting a photo of an amazing Moon we are having over Baku tonight...although I am not sure if my picture conveys the beauty...:)

Unknown Azerbaijan...Tea...

2009-01-14T11:26:00.003+04:00

If you ask me what tea means in Azerbaijan I will just reply with our proverb which says “Çay nədir, say nədir” which can be translated as “when you drink tea, you don’t count the cups” and means that tea is something almost “sacred” in Azerbaijan…or should I simply say…there is a strong tea culture….

Tea ceremony in Azerbaijan means freshly brewed, strong, bright-colour, hot tea served in crystal or any other glasses or cups (I will do a separate post on traditional glass “armudu stəkan” i.e. “pear shaped glass”). Tea is served continuously when there are guests or when there is an interesting conversation…when we are bored or not bored, happy or sad…Tea with milk or with sugar (sweet tea) is not traditional…Traditional tea is served with lemon, cube sugar, sweets and “mürəbbə”. The word “mürəbbə” doesn’t have a direct translation because if I write jam you would imagine something a bit different. “Mürəbbə” is thinner and you would eat it quite differently to how we eat jam but I will write about this separately in future :)

I always say that with good statistical information I think Azerbaijan would beat all the records in world’s tea consumption per capita but I am afraid there is no this kind of data currently. Another proof: the word “çayxana” means place/café where people drink tea, this culture is as old and strong in Azerbaijan as pubs in Britain…when visitors come to Azerbaijan for the first time and see men sitting in a café, playing backgammon and drinking something they are amazed to see that those men are actually drinking…tea…what visitors do not know is that the place they see is actually “çayxana”. Historically women were not going to public places so “çayxana” used to be a place for men...nowadays young generation thinks that “çayxana” sounds ancient and not very refined and friendly so these cafes are mainly called as “çay evi” i.e. tea house.

Tea is associated with warmth, hospitality and friendliness therefore traditon says that one should not allow the guest leave the house without at least one cup of tea...for the beginning ;)...

Winter...

2009-01-09T14:18:00.001+04:00

I must have written earlier on this blog that we Azeris very often find ourselves saying (almost boasting :) that from 11 climate zones we have 9 in Azerbaijan. Thus e.g. if Baku area is mostly dry but has Caspian Sea, we also grow lemons in subtropical Lenkoran and Sheki is very green and has mountains...Purpose of this foreword is to say that winter has different scenarios depending on the region of the country. In Baku it means mostly rain and wind and few days of snow and for Sheki it means snow, snow, snow, frozen, icy roads and pipes, continuously happy and excited children and women with red hands who no matter what weather continue their house chores in a most proper manner. Usually the harsher the winter the better the harvest but unfortunately it continues to be a very difficult season in terms of logistics and conveniences for many households in the country.

Below photo is the courtesy of Tural Salahov who took this photo on his way to Sheki and neighboring regions. Thank you, Tural, for a great photo. Another fascinating creation of Mother Nature, isn’t it?...

Bayramlıq...

2009-01-06T10:12:00.014+04:00

Since marriage and family continues to be main pillars of Azerbaijani culture we have numerous traditions connected with engagements, weddings, family life and children…

Traditions connected with pre-wedding times are numerous. The more the family feels attached to traditions more creative they can be :) Ok, I might be a bit exaggerating but with desire and time and financials allowing different ceremonies can be arranged that bring a lot of joy and lots of work to immediate families and entertainment to relatives and guests. One of traditions is called “bayramlıq”, bayram means holiday and the ending “lıq” can be translated as gift for holiday and means the ceremony of bringing gifts to the engaged girl. As long as the couple is engaged and not yet married bayramlıq ceremony can be arranged for all holidays that take place during the period…

According to tradition the family of engaged man brings all kinds of sweets and some gold jewelry to the engaged girl; all presents are brought in “xonça” to be read as khoncha and meaning decorated basket or tray with presents. Colour associated with these ceremonies is usually red. Do not quote me but I assume that this might be connected with the fact that Azeris were Zoroastrians in ancient times and fire and its colour are still strong elements of culture…Girl’s family in return in accordance with tradition of hospitality which is another very important part of culture receives the guests in her house, lays the table and prepares the food and then gives some of sweets back to boy’s family to sweeten their mouth as we say here as well as to all the guests and other relatives who were not participating at the ceremony…:)

There is a famous saying in Russian "Восток дело тонкое" that might be translated as "East is a delicate/fine matter..." thus sophistication and attention to detail is very important to Sheki people if I may say with pride :) and in this context this applies to khonchas and hospitality…
Below are some pictures of khonchas brought as New Year bayramlıq.

One of wishes to newly engaged would be not to let routine to turn their future holidays to commonness and that they continue to make the most of their holidays just like they do it now :)

No bayram without famous Sheki khalva :)

Khonchas...

Another khoncha...

More khonchas...