March in Azerbaijan...

Dear readers, although its already April I still want to go back and write about March...

...

March is all about holidays in Azerbaijan. We are celebrating Women's Day and continuously welcoming :) Novruz i.e. spring. Novruz is a holiday when people are kind of uniting with nature...since spring is coming, nature is awakening and spring equinox is happening and people are only joining this celebration...no holiday could be more natural than Novruz...

Thus four weeks in advance of actual Novruz we celebrate Tuesdays of water, fire, wind and earth...then celebrate Novruz eve and Novruz day itself. People cook numerous Novruz deserts (March is period of vitamin deficiency thus Novruz pastries are all about butter, nuts, sugar and spices to keep people going (now...who can dispute wisdom of ancestors...)) Gogal, shekerbura and pakhlava are pastries that are found on every table, semeni (growing wheat) sign of Novruz and prosperity of coming year is also there. Everybody is visiting each other and there are many, many other traditions that I hope to mention next year :) But for this year I want to stop here, wish everyone happy spring and post some Novruz photos that I have been collecting to share with you :)

getting ready for festive dinner...spring ash (plov)...every season has its own plov in Sheki and each is delicious in its own way...

Novruz must haves: fried nuts and wheat...

Novruz must have: semeni - growing wheat, symbol of Novruz - sign of well-being;
that cake in a form of gazelle was quite popular in Sheki formerly, not the case nowadays but still very cute to have on the table...not easy to keep children off it though :)

Another symbol of Novruz, pastry called gogal (gogal means round, small bread) that also has spicy filling in this case, is perfect for breakfasts and not only...crispy and delicious...this photo I took on my mobile in my mom's kitchen...God bless her... My favourite pastry of Novruz, pakhlava, as you can see photo was taken after we tried pakhlava :)...mom couldn't convince us to wait until its properly cooled... Pastries of Novruz: shekerbura and pakhlava...
Novruz must-haves: nuts etc...
decorated semeni :)

...Novruz...

This week everyone in Azerbaijan is on leave. The reason is that the country is continuing to celebrate Novruz. Novruz has a very ancient Zoroastrian origin. We celebrate the arrival of spring, arrival of new life and new beginning.Starting four weeks in advance of Novruz each Tuesday we celebrate Tuesday of Wind, Tuesday of Water, Tuesday of Fire and Tuesday of Earth. Evening of 20th of March and 21st of March are actual Novruz celebration days. 20th of March falls on the spring equinox, the first day of spring. At the time of the equinox, the sun is observed to be directly over the equator, and the north and south poles of the Earth lie along the solar terminator; sunlight is evenly divided between the north and south hemispheres. No matter which political regime Azerbaijan always celebrated Novruz. We have many traditions connected with Novruz such as jumping over fire (to drop past year troubles into the fire), prepare special Novruz deserts (to energize the batteries of the body that get exhausted during cold winter) and visiting the families and relatives. Usually we call March crazy…since it is impossible to guess the weather during this special month. Special because everybody is looking forward to warmer weather and spring and appreciates every extra sun light we receive. March is playing with people offering different weather every day…This year we are lucky as the weather during Novruz is great. Since the holidays are long everyone is either in the regions or abroad traveling and having a good time. I don’t have special pictures unfortunately…this is the picture of Novruz pastries and growing wheat "səməni" (also a must thing to have for Novruz in every household)… Happy Spring, everyone!!!

Forty days of care or Spring of Life...

Here I am back with you and its already April. I have been thinking about this post for awhile and today I will try to finish it. 

Today I will be writing about another custom in Azerbaijan. Tradition says that if the family has a new born baby, mother and child must live a "protective" lifestyle. This implies that preferably very few people should interact with both and they shouldn't be visiting places. Mother should be recovering and therefore grannies would prepare her healthy (read high calorie and energy:) meals to help her recover and feed her baby. And newborn should be adapting to life. 40 days of special care to have a protection against evil eyes (read infections, bacteria and negative energy:) to enter new life healthily and happily. This is what grannies would insist everyone to do and every region and city would have more peculiarities and details about the custom. Nowadays things are of course flexible especially in Baku. Nevertheless tradition makes a lot of sense to give some time and space for mom and baby to recover as everyone would agree that moms get exhausted quite easily and new babies are soooooo small to expose them to the world aggressively. 

With our new baby at home the majority of our 40 days fell on March. Since the weather in March is quite unpredictable people in Sheki call it crazy (dəli mart). Also this is time when people get anxious to welcome spring and many those who have issues with their health might get worse so another saying says that when March is over trouble is over (mart çıxdı, dərd çıxdı). Nevertheless March is one of the or probably the most festive month in Azerbaijan. We start it with celebrating Women's Day on 8th of March. And then the whole month is about Novruz, Novruz, Novruz and Novruz. Starting four weeks in advance of actual holiday on 20-21 March every Tuesday is devoted to one element of nature (wind, water, fire and earth). I have put different links  about the holiday to the post in case you have time and interest to look through.

Unfortunately life is not only about wisdom, harmony and peace...On 31 of March people in Azerbaijan remember The March Days, or March Events, an inter-ethnic strife and massacres of up to 12,000 Azerbaijanis and other Muslims that took place between March 30 and April 2, 1918 in the city of Baku and adjacent areas of the Baku Governorate of the Russian Empire.

Mentioned so many subjects I must confess I find it difficult to finish the post. I guess I will finish it by wishing everyone to have a beautiful and peaceful spring to notice and enjoy awakening of nature and life. Be well...

Some "home-made" photos to colour up my post... 

new baby-new life-new spring in our lives :) 

khoncha is a traditional set in Azerbaijan, when one places different desserts on one plate. Everyone strives to have a beautiful and colourful khoncha. I am blessed with talented mom, Gullar khanim, who is an exceptional cook and has a great taste for beautiful tablewear...I hope to have inherited some of her talents :) 

must element of Novruz, green sprouting wheat - semeni/samani (səməni)...we grow wheat and place it on our tables during Novruz. The process is beautifully shown on the pictures by my relative Arifa Salayeva who shared her photos from US. 

we don't only grow the wheat for Novruz but also kind of "roast" it and add it to our khonchas. Below picture is taken by my other relative Turkan Mustafayeva in their yard in Sheki . Echoing with nature they have a luxury to enjoy Novruz to the fullest...long live grannies who cherish and pass on the traditions and skills... 

young roasted wheat is quite delicious. We mix it up with nuts and raisins and its very tasty (also high energy). 

and another final khoncha for Novruz. Candles are a must. They symbolise fire and in general I love them :) 

March in Azerbaijan...

Although I wasn’t able to write as often as I would wish to that does not mean that March has passed unnoticed…Quite often I felt the urge to write and today is the day )

This post is devoted to the month of March, how special it is for Azerbaijan.

Those who know Azerbaijan would know that the month starts with us celebrating the 8th of March, so called "Women's Day". Nowadays one can find many people who argue that the holiday quite lost its essence by now and that it is not "applicable" any longer and that it is not national enough. But then you should see the sea of flowers, chocolates, perfumes that cause endless smiles and happy atmosphere. You would say I am biased and conformist. In fact I am confused. I want for women to have rights to make their own choices and have the most equal rights they chose to have but I also want them to have a luxury of feeling feminine with some "special" rights such as men holding doors for them and letting pass first. With these confused thoughts I am among those who accept wishes on the date and try to understand those who are unhappy with imperfections of the holiday.

Later in the month when everyone longs for spring even stronger with every week we anticipate our one of the most cherished holidays Novruz.

During previous years I would have posts in March that I would devote to Tuesdays of wind, water, fire and earth that precede Novruz holiday. Zoroastrian by history and nature Novruz is the holiday we have inherited from our ancestors and I love the holiday for its multidimensional beauty and wisdom.

Just like any other place in the world Azerbaijan lived through different stages of history and development. On that path it accumulated traditions, culture and beliefs that got changed and adapted by winds of change and novelties. Country observes holidays of Islam, celebrates New Year decorating New Year tree (many of the readers would read it as X-mas tree) and has holidays like 8th of March and Novruz not mentioning the holidays to celebrate Independence and other. Over the centuries the country has been and is very tolerant to all beliefs, religions and cultures. More than 70 years it was a part of Soviet Union. I can almost compare this membership to put it softly to undesired friendship or even union where one is constantly making compromises and somewhat obeying while the other is becoming more and more demanding and impudent. I am glad that we are out of this union and don’t have to ask permissions and have excuses to celebrate holidays like Novruz (celebrating Novruz was prohibited for some time during Soviet Union).

Before I am too carried away with all these thoughts let me wish to all of you happy spring and that you don’t miss it and actually enjoy every new flower and sun ray of nature.

For colourful pictures of Novruz please see my earlier post here.

And let me post some more of those that I have taken recently.

Photo taken in exhibition devoted to 8th of March in Museum Center, in Baku. We went to see it with my little sunny bunny. Piece in the center is "Wish tree" by my spouse Teymur Rustamov.

This year we had a strong winter. In March mountains in Sheki were still in snow...

Traditionally everyone in Sheki prepares their gardens to welcome spring...

One of traditional Novruz sweets. Gogal. Resembling the shape of sun it has got lots of spices and flavours and is one of my favourites. These were prepared by my mom and my sister and I were helping her out.

Traditionally you would have children knocking on your door and leaving their caps and hats asking for some sweets. You are not supposed to see the kids. Once you put something sweet and tasty and close the door they would come and pick up the hats...

Novruz holiday is knocking the door..."water" Tuesday..."Su Çərşənbəsi"...

When I think about four elements of nature the first thing I recall is The Fifth Element movie. If you have watched it at the end of that movie heroes need to "break" mystery and those were four elements of nature etc etc...

Anyway...today...is first Tuesday when we "acknowledge" approach of Novruz in Azerbaijan and this Tuesday is "water" Tuesday as we call it here. May sound confusing...Please read my earlier post on Novruz here so that you have some info on our tradition to celebrate beginning of spring...before we celebrate actual Novruz we start four or so weeks earlier by celebrating each element of nature every Tuesday...i.e. we may start thinking about sweets that need to be prepared for holidays, make fire or just start getting cheerful :) It is believed that in nature water is renewed first of all and then everything else...If you are in Azerbaijan and say spill water by accident don't get surprised if you hear people saying to you "su aydınlıqdır" meaning that water is purity and you shouldn't worry...or if many people want to drink water we say "yol böyüyün, su kiçiyindir" meaning that oldest people should be let to walk in/out first but water firstly is served to youngest (sorry for this hasty and awkward translation...) not sure if these beliefs have anything to do with Novruz but just so that you know :) Su çərşənbəniz mübarək! Happy Water Tuesday! :)

Novruz..."Su Çərşənbəsi"..."Water" Tuesday...

February is considered the toughest month in Baku in terms of weather. "Tough" implies a day or two of snow when many Bakuvians look out of their windows and take a deep sigh for all the

things they could potentially achieve if not the snow :). Sheki as it should be in mountainous areas is covered with snow for much longer and heavier during winter and usually nobody complains that much. Actually religious and older people in Sheki consider inappropriate complaining about the weather..."who are mere mortals to complain about the weather"...

Baku also has strong "khazri"s (north/cold wind coming from Caspian (Caspian is called Khazar in Azeri)) in February when its almost impossible to walk and wind finds its way anywhere no matter how well everywhere is closed and anybody is buttoned up...

Thus in all this wind and cold when February is still trying to show its character we have first Tuesday of Novruz called "water Tuesday". It's like first warble of birds that one can't really hear yet but wants to hear. It's like a sign of beautiful spring to come. Four weeks in advance of Novruz first Tuesday reminds us to start enjoying anticipation of a greener (but not burnt with sun) and warmer (but not unbearably hot) nature.

Here is what I wrote on "water" Tuesday last year, post that actually talks more about our spring holiday Novruz and how we celebrate awakening of nature, starting from water.

Qircana (Qirjana) river of Sheki
P.S. Let's not waste the water...

Novruz holiday is knocking the door..."earth" Tuesday evening...

Today is last Tuesday evening when signs of nature are noted or celebrated as part of Novruz holiday.

Unfortunately last Tuesday I wasn’t able to write about wind Tuesday…I was thinking to write that they say that Baku means city of winds and this wind makes sometimes hot and humid summers a bit bearable but also makes winters much colder than thermometers show...They say that in the past, when the area of Baku was empty and there were less constructions to break the wind, people could actually stand on the wind…so strong it used to be…nowadays wind can get quite strong too…cold wind that comes from Caspian is called khazri (xəzri in Azeri, Khazar (Xəzər) is how Caspian Sea is called in Azeri) and warm wind is called gilavar. How poetic is this…

This Tuesday is evening of earth sign of nature…I guess the most important sign. I say the most important cause it was the first and main reason why people started to fight with each other…Earth said: “I will feed you and amaze you, all you need is to take care of me, love me and enjoy…but people thought that more they have of it better and started wars to occupy as much of it as possible in the meantime forgetting what they needed the earth for in the first place…”

Nowadays when traveling and moving around are usual state of living for many people, when quite often under asphalt and among skyscrapers one can’t even see the earth, belonging to some place is not even relevant. I remember my grandma who had to move to Baku since her health wasn’t allowing her to stay alone in Sheki. She was not able to hide that she hated buildings and asphalt of the city, she wanted back to her land where she could take deep breath and feel the earth…of course she wasn’t describing it that way, she simply wanted home…and we took her home so that she could spend her last spring there, feeling the earth under her feet…(last Tuesday evening of Novruz is the day to remember all who are not with us any more...)

This Tuesday evening is considered as the most festive…with candles on the table, dishes cooked and sweets prepared people are celebrating the awakening of earth…spring is coming and rejuvenating nature will bring hopes and love or hopes for love to everyone…

It is not easy to grasp all merits and not only of civilization and continue to remember and appreciate what is really important…Novruz helps us to do it.

Be well :)

click on picture to see it big and beautiful :)

Novruz_Fire Tuesday...

First of March this year for us here in Azerbaijan was not only to enjoy as first date of approaching spring but also as second Tuesday of Novruz, so called Fire Tuesday. Fire does not leave anyone indifferent on this land of fire - Azerbaijan...

Let me take here a sudden turn and advise that although this post is devoted to second Tuesday of Novruz I am posting a picture...no...not of a fire...

Below picture was taken by photographer Asim Talib in 1982! in Kalbadjar region of Azerbaijan which is currently under occupation... I love this photo very much and was looking for opportunity to share it with you...Who would know, understand and appreciate all traditions if not older men and women that bring them to us - younger generations...The way they dress, behave, expressions they use, stories they tell are precious...Today when remembering this ancient tradition of celebrating Tuesdays of Novruz I think it would be the right time to thank once more and wish good health to all old people...Who if not them understand and cherish the beauty of another spring to come...

My year 2009 post on fire Tuesday can be read here.

Early spring in Sheki...

Clever books say that one should always leave routine and change scenery whenever possible. Other books explain that we often perceive things more difficult than they actually are. Defining difficult is quite relative in any case...

 

We had to attend funeral in Sheki early March and you would agree that when something is an obligation rather than simply a wish, one would often "just do it". We almost never travel to Sheki for a day due to distance of around 300 km but when the duty calls you don't look for excuses.  

Once we paid respect at the funeral I knew that I wouldn't want to leave Sheki before I visit some people that I missed quite a lot.

There we were in the house of aunties I love dearly Ruhangiz and Tamilla, who have special taste for everything beautiful. There are many things that I love about their house including flowers. Lower I want to share with you some pictures. Flowers were in full blossom but I don't think the photos reveal fully that serene beauty.   

 

 

 

There is no compromising when it comes to neatness and beauty of the table setting in their house. From table cloth to tea serving. I may sound strange but the aesthetic pleasure I get is as strong if not stronger if I compare to taste of tea or preserves. 

On our way back to Baku we had this fascinating mist...winter did not want to give in to spring...

I took these photos early March. As you might know in March we also celebrate Novruz. I wrote many times about Novruz on this blog. Sharing with you photo of this year's Novruz taste...

Novruz holiday is knocking the door..."fire" Tuesday..."Od Çərşənbəsi"...

This Tuesday is the eve of "Od Çərşənbəsi" meaning "Fire Tuesday/Wednesday". The thing is that although it is called "Od Çərşənbəsi" we celebrate the eve not çərşənbə i.e. not Wednesday...anyway these are just technicalities :)

Fire...those who know the history of Zoroastrianism and know a bit about Azerbaijan might have heard that there is a zoroastrian pilgrimage in suburbs of Baku and that fire is somewhat sacred in this "odlar yurdu" i.e. land of fire i.e. Azerbaijan...this territory historically hid reserves of oil and gas that caused flames of fire and this was of course interpreted as blessing by superstitious people and capital by practical people...

Fire is another sign of nature that is celebrated during Novruz. Fire means warmth and comfort...I hope there is more warmth and comfort in our homes and hearts than anything else...

Childhood - spring of ones lifetime...

Last three years or so Novruz is celebrated during quite a long time in Azerbaijan…around a week. Working mothers like I have a chance to spend more time with their little ones (what sometimes might seem more tiring than working:), to make amazing, funny and sweet discoveries…There is a saying in Azerbaijan “Uşaq olan evdə qeybət olmaz” what means “there is no gossip in homes where there are children”…it implies that children keep everyone so busy that women do not find time for gossiping (hopefully :)

Childhood is definitely spring of ones life time. Like spring...by the time you realize, notice and appreciate it, childhood is gone…the same thought comes to me when I observe the child, time flies and babies change so quickly…everyday they do something new and here the next day yesterday's something new is gone...spring in Baku is also very short...every day a new flower, another green tree and one wonders - when did all this happen...where was I looking...and then one day it is already summer...

In Russian they say “погода шепчет…” meaning weather is whispering me…I can not convey how beautiful the weather was for a couple of days this week in Baku, nature was definitely whispering beautiful songs of blue sky, warming sun, gentle breeze, bird songs and children laughter…song of awakening nature...spring…it was whispering “take a moment, notice me…”

Below I am posting photos that I believe will better explain what I mean above...these photos are taken by people who do notice spring :) These are my niece, Fatma Giyasova, who not only enjoyed but also took photos precisely for my blog while in Sheki during Novruz (let me thank you in public, Fatma) and Fakhriyya Mammadova whose eyes catch miracles easily and thankfully she shares her photos with us...

Shortly these buds will open up, tree will blossom, bear fruits...this will happen very quickly...do you know what I mean?...courtesy of Fakhriyya...
Bees are getting excited :) ...courtesy of Fakhriyya...

Springs in Absheron peninsular (where Baku is located) are so short...courtesy of Fakhriyya

This isn't snow...this is apricot tree in blossom..isn't this amazing...courtesy of Fatma...

Apricot tree blossoms...closer view...courtesy of Fatma

Spring cleaning...

I must confess that I re-read my post written in May 2007 now and smiled to first sentence of it) why not, good idea....

Today I am writing the post devoted to “spring cleaning”. I could basically repeat what I wrote in 2007...as things haven’t changed since then…

I spent Novruz holidays in Sheki this year. Again got impressed how most of women are keen to keep their households immaculately clean and even if everything looks perfect still spring deep cleaning is a must.

Although modern technologies are welcome there are things which kind of just can't get any better )…such as…broom....nothing is simple with brooms either...since there is "tuğ" (which is soft broom works great indoors and with dust) there is "süpürgə" which is harsh broom works great with carpets or better outdoors and there is another type of "süpürgə" with which you can even broom your garden. And I must mention that everything is made from a natural material and this knowledge comes from ancestors…

When I got acquainted with Feng shui and read about keeping ones living environment clean I caught myself thinking that Sheki people (and not only) inherit Feng shui habits with their upbringing…since spring cleaning is just another norm be it in Sheki be it in Feng shui…

Couple of photos...

"brushed" saffron at background...

"broomed" garden in Sheki awaiting spring...
"broomed" garden in Sheki awaiting spring...II

brooms rushing to the market...courtesy of Far Fario...

everyone can find THE broom for her household...I took this photo in 2007! in Sheki bazaar to share it with you only now...)

Novruz_Water Tuesday

Today Azerbaijan and not only but all who are celebrating Novruz greeted "water" Tuesday. Waters of nature woke up and are ready to welcome spring!

Unfortunately I am not able to write a nice post on this today thus would have to give links to my posts in 2010 and 2009.

Spring...peaceful spring...

It’s April. Spring is almost here but not quite yet...everyone is so much looking forward to it...it is already proven by now that sunny and pleasant weather affects people positively...thus people must be at least a little bit happier when sun rays wake them up in the morning...in March when I travelled to Sheki for Novruz I saw mountains giving in to spring; trees ready to blossom; neat gardens of Sheki waiting to wake up and people excited to see days getting longer and warmer...Isn't it beautiful...

Although they say that we live in era of individualism and egocentrism I believe that war and terror in one part of the world can not mean full peace for somewhere else...at the end of the day a person is a part of the family, country, of planet Earth...I hope that there will be less violence and killings in the world and people around the world including every parent who has his/her son serving in war zone would be able to enjoy their spring...cause without peace there is no spring...

Peaceful spring everyone...:)

mountains giving in to spring...
(photo taken on the road to Sheki, apologies for the quality)
Everything and everyone looking forward to spring...

Mountains...

neat gardens of Sheki...

people...

20 September - Oil Workers Day in Azerbaijan...

Just like certain characteristics can determine life pattern of a person, natural resources determine history and very often future of the country. Oil and gas resources of Azerbaijan shaped up its name - Land of Fire...traditions - to name one of the most important that is welcoming of spring in March, Novruz, history - country was constantly invaded and divided and is still in ceasefire situation and welfare - during last ten years economy continued to grow and with new gas reserves more investments are expected...

Behind all aspects of oil exploration and in general everything in life there is a human factor. People - that find, explore and exploit oil and gas fields to name only few expertises.

Today my post is devoted to Oil Workers Day in Azerbaijan. This day is even closer to me because my father, Nadir Qiyasov, is a devoted oilman and I can say a unique geophysicist indeed.

Azerbaijan can boast not only with its oil and gas reserves but what is more important with its professional, highly-skilled, determined, very often self-sacrificing engineers, geologists, geophysicist, drillers and workers without whose joint effort it wouldn't be possible to put together any project of oil and gas exploration. I wish to all our oil workers good health, good, no, excellent working conditions and all the very best!

My last year’s post on Oil Workers Day can be read here.

I found this picture in family archive (and my dad doesn't even know that I am posting it). I love old photos in general...and on this one you can see how oil-men are having one of their heated discussions on oil field. This photo was taken in Soviet times when professionals from all 15 Republics would be doing their best for one big country...many years have passed...my dad is much older now (he is the third one in the middle on the picture) and is much happier to serve his independent country...