Winter in Sheki...

I rarely travel to Sheki in winter...probably because southern by nature I prefer travelling mostly when its warmer...nevertheless there is nothing more refreshing than awakening breath of mountains when it's cold. I try calling my relatives during the breaks of my routine and it is interesting to hear the same stories but in different manner depending who I am talking to. If I am talking to one of ever cheerful relatives I hear "you should see the beauty of our garden, snowflakes are huge and the air is so crispy; well yes the roads are frozen so are the pipes but never mind things will be all right..." and then I hear from another person who is almost always a step away from feeling depressed "oh, everything is frozen, so depressing, cold, winter is unbelievable this year, electricity was out for a while, I wish we were somewhere else..." I hang up and I am thinking how almost the same things make different people feel differently...certainly at the end of the day as they say it is not only the weather that affects our mood but probably our inner "weather" affects how we see things out of the window as well...

Sharing with you my photos that I took in Sheki during the season that might appear cold and gray but which at the same time has the weather that can awake one's mind and soul...

Talking about the weather...

Haven't been blogging for ages...feels awful...but fortunately was busy with good things and hope to be able to write more again...

Its late November and Baku witnessed snow already twice...this is very unusual for Baku since usually we would have a day or two of snow sometime in February and that would be it...not quite sure what snowing in November would bring for the rest of winter and so on but it inspired me to write about it today...The thing is that just when I was going to mention again that we like boasting here that modest in size country accommodates nine climate zones out of eleven I realised that I mentioned about it in my different earlier posts here here here and here :))) I guess thats already quite few :) the reason why I thought about this again is that not only in the country but even in our capital yesterday we had almost no snow in one part, mild snow in another and real snowfall in its higher parts...this must be quite normal but again made me think that its kind of interesting... I am sharing with you the photo that I took in the morning when walking to the office in Baku as well as the photo that was taken also today but in Qabala, city in the north part of the country. There is something amazing about walking in the snow...Wishing you an amazing weekend...)

In Baku this morning...

In Qabala today...courtesy of Farid Novruzi...

Exploring more of Azerbaijan...Nakhchivan...

Did it ever happen to you that when you saw pictures of some place in some magazine it was hard for you to believe that the places pictured do really exist...

When a while ago I saw pictures of "Salt Mountain" retreat I must confess it was hard for me to believe that the place would be exactly like on the pictures...just like the name of ancient fortress in Sheki says "Come and See" I could only believe it once I would personally see it (human nature...)

Recently I visited Nakhchivan...another very rich area of Azerbaijan. One of Nakhchivan's treasures is its "Salt Mountain". This is a unique place created by miracles of nature and care of people for those that suffer from breathing problems to find relief...

Sharing with you some photos...I hope they would be convincing enough although seeing and experiencing "Salt Mountain" in real is much better...

the place looks very modest from outside...this makes what you see inside even more impressive...

one of the pathways of retreat that you find yourself on soon after you start going into the mountain...

there are "rooms" to stay overnight or during the time of treatment...

it is also possible just to walk, sit on the benches or even have a snack...

healing miracle of salt...salty walls of salty mountain...I tasted...the walls taste salty indeed...

healing miracle of salt...salty walls of salty mountain...
healing miracles of these mountains were discovered in ancient times...

these mountains are not green and fluffy...they have beauty and miracle of their own...

Exploring more of Azerbaijan...somewhere between Sheki and Qakh...

This summer I realized that the word “explore” comes into my mind quite often. I was mostly linking that word to traveling but it applies to everything. I was thinking that although I live on Absheron I have explored quite little of it…that although every summer I travel to Sheki I have explored little if any of its villages. Then I started thinking about this in Azeri because “explore” was coming to my mind only in English if you know what I mean. I started to think of the best word in Azeri that would convey what I mean by it in this context…I thought of “kəşf etmək, araşdırmaq, tədqiq etmək”....tried to explain to myself why I am thinking about this in English...

At some point in life exploring might seem/become quite a luxury…exploring would have to be joint if you have children since you know that they love spending their time with you regardless what you do (especially if you are exploring…). This year we tried to do a little bit of exploring. We didn’t locate everything we wanted; it wasn’t as comfortable as it could be since our little one is too young (less than two years old) but it gave a lot of food for eyes and thought about how much is out there to explore…and not only geographically...

sharing with you some photos with more to come...

on the way to Sheki...many villages lying in the feet of the mountaints...

view up from the hill between Sheki and Qakh...
fluffy mountains of Qakh...

my posts of four (!) years ago when we visited Qakh that is neighbouring Sheki for the first time can be read here and here.

20 September - Oil Workers Day in Azerbaijan...

Just like certain characteristics can determine life pattern of a person, natural resources determine history and very often future of the country. Oil and gas resources of Azerbaijan shaped up its name - Land of Fire...traditions - to name one of the most important that is welcoming of spring in March, Novruz, history - country was constantly invaded and divided and is still in ceasefire situation and welfare - during last ten years economy continued to grow and with new gas reserves more investments are expected...

Behind all aspects of oil exploration and in general everything in life there is a human factor. People - that find, explore and exploit oil and gas fields to name only few expertises.

Today my post is devoted to Oil Workers Day in Azerbaijan. This day is even closer to me because my father, Nadir Qiyasov, is a devoted oilman and I can say a unique geophysicist indeed.

Azerbaijan can boast not only with its oil and gas reserves but what is more important with its professional, highly-skilled, determined, very often self-sacrificing engineers, geologists, geophysicist, drillers and workers without whose joint effort it wouldn't be possible to put together any project of oil and gas exploration. I wish to all our oil workers good health, good, no, excellent working conditions and all the very best!

My last year’s post on Oil Workers Day can be read here.

I found this picture in family archive (and my dad doesn't even know that I am posting it). I love old photos in general...and on this one you can see how oil-men are having one of their heated discussions on oil field. This photo was taken in Soviet times when professionals from all 15 Republics would be doing their best for one big country...many years have passed...my dad is much older now (he is the third one in the middle on the picture) and is much happier to serve his independent country...

End of Ramadan...

Before I move on to other posts I want to mention that this year's Ramadan ended end August...days in August are long and usually quite hot in Azerbaijan. This year although hot at the beginning weather became milder during the month. Fasting period continued around 16 hours...With this post I want to mention that I hope there were many kind prayers during the month of Ramadan and those who fasted (including my parents) and not only :) will stay in good health to welcome Ramadan in years to come. Posting couple of pictures sent to me by my cousin, Fatima in Sheki from Ramadan feast. People visit each other at the end of Ramadan thus tables in every household in Sheki (and not only) are ready to welcome anyone who knocks on the door.

Be well...

My earlier posts on Ramadan can be read here and here.

Axır Cumay...Axır Cümə...or Last Friday of Ramadan...

Last Fridays of Ramadan are called Axır Cumay in Sheki. Cümə means Friday in Azeri but since Sheki has quite a strong dialect many words are told differently, the same is with the name of this day. Axır Cumay means last Friday and on last Fridays of Ramadan people in Sheki remember those who unfortunately are not with them any longer and go to cemeteries. In cemeteries people say their prayers or ask Mollahs to say the prayers for them, quite often do some cleaning of grass etc and simply remember.

Today there was a heavy rain in Sheki, nevertheless people paid respect and respected the tradition...

How can one be wiser and kinder if does not try to remember wisdom of the past and people that made past years special. This is something to be passed to children so that they build upon what has already been achieved and don't have to start over...actually quite a number of things are inherited genetically too...there are so many answers in the past...

Today we had a heavy rain in Baku as well...at the same time sun was shining...and it made me think that rain and sun means...yes rainbow...and guess what I raised my eyes to see rainbow above me...it was amazing...I even wanted to say to people around stop, raise your eyes or you will miss the rainbow...but then thought that they wouldn't understand and didn't...but did take photos...not of great quality but still...A friend of mine took a better photo with better view so I am sharing it as well.

Let there always be people around us who are like rainbow in our lives. Either they are with us or not we will always remember their warmth...

Be well...

rainbow...

rainbow not to miss...

courtesy of Vugar Muradov...

Summer motives…

Paradox of summer is that in parallel of being leisure time it’s also time when graduates are applying to universities. This means a lot of stress for families (and families in Azerbaijan usually love living through the stress together:) and lots of last minute studying and panic by graduates who envy those who are enjoying sun and sea. Usually all relatives are eagerly expecting the results and worry together with families. Independence brought to Azerbaijan equal rights for youngsters to apply to universities they wish. Soviet system rooted corruption to education system when people were divided into those who could “afford” prestigious universities and those that either had their hearts broken cause were not accepted unfairly or would persistently apply year after year until they would break the barricades of system. It’s good to see that education continues to be high on the agenda for many. With borders open many travel to study abroad as well. Things are not perfect but there are almost equal (since there is nothing absolutely equal I am afraid) opportunities out there and this I think is very important. I wish good luck to all and hope they remember that feeling of happiness they have when they reach what they wish. These moments are important to warm ones heart and be a happy person in general!! Happier people happier planet...hopefully )

Today I am posting several photos that would convey a little bit of summer: a photo of the entrance exam atmosphere, photos from International Art Festival “Qız Qalası” that took place this summer again. Here is my last year post on festival with video featuring the event and Baku of course. And photos I took on Caspian with youth getting the most of summer...

expecting examinees...traditionally and historically almost every examinee in Azerbaijan goes to entry exam with one or several family members...photo courtesy of Nazim Dadashov...

International Art Festival “Qız Qalası”...photo courtesy of Tagi Jafarov...

kites of the festival...photo courtesy of Tagi Jafarov...

photo courtesy of Tagi Jafarov...

youth getting the most of summer...

Generous summer...

Summer for me feels like or wants to feel like one long weekend when only sun, sea, smiles and good mood should happen to people. Everything else feels very unnatural and inharmonious…
Let’s talk about food today...

Fruits and vegetables seem to rush to reach our tables in summer (or maybe that’s merchants facilitating the process…). We have almost left behind here season of mulberries and cherries and now apricots are having their say before melons and watermelons would be at their peak. I must admit I admire richness and generosity of nature and those who grow fruits and vegetables for people to enjoy. Unfortunately the theme of organic and not really organic has reached Azerbaijan as well and it’s getting more difficult to trust honesty of those who consider this as “nothing personal, but business”. I am afraid they forget that “what goes around comes around”…the proverb with the same hints and meaning is excellent in Azeri; it says “nə tökərsən aşına, o da çıxar qaşığına” that translates roughly as “you would get in your spoon whatever you have put in your soup”. Thus fruits and vegetables from gardens of our regions and Baku are real treasure that we all cherish nowadays.

Today I am also sharing with you pictures of another miracle: cactus that is flowering now in our garden. Land of Absheron is dry in summer, sun is hot and air is humid thus all superb for cactuses to grow. Caught this bee admiring cactus' flowers…while I was admiring them both...

Abricots having their say in our garden...

cactus...thorny but flowering...busy bee...
My earlier posts on mulberries and watermelons can be read here...

Azerbaijan and Italy...

There must be people that enjoy cool or even cold weather and there are the ones that love heat or maybe better warmth of generous Sun...

We in Azerbaijan enjoy sun during most months of the year…cold weather is something that I can’t really enjoy, warmth - this is what I am looking forward to during mild winter in Azerbaijan…

Earlier this month we had a trip to Italy. Azerbaijan is for the third time participating in Venice Biennale and we of course traveled to support the artists and organizers and enjoy Biennale overall.

Each trip brings different thoughts and this time I was thinking that Italy and Azerbaijan have many things in common. Both are passionate about music, art, beauty, good food, easily loose temper, enjoy noisy family affairs, can leave messages on reception like “will be back soon….”, have the notion like as it says in “Eat, Pray, Love” “the pleasure or enjoyment of not doing anything”…that means relaxing a bit longer and more often than people of north if I may say…without feeling self-conscious…All these characters and southern temperament can have many positive and not only results…That is the effect of Sun ))…genetically Sun warmed up blood of southern people and people are born with warm hearts and high temper…talking louder and approaching closer...eating more and driving crazier…that is nature and it usually takes over…modern people are adapting their temper and nature and people in the regions like in mountainous Sheki are shy and much quieter anyway…

Italy has had rich history and invites everyone to Venice to enjoy biennale of modern art. It is hard to say if people enjoy modern art or grandness of the past more. History will say its word about modern art but beauty, uniqueness and value of historic places and art are indisputable…

This year Italy celebrated 150th anniversary of the country’s unification. Azerbaijan feels for it since by XVIII century Azerbaijan itself consisted of a few independent Khanliqs (principalities). In 1828 per so called Turkmenchay Peace Treaty Azerbaijan was divided between Russian Empire and Persia. It was possible to establish Democratic Republic in 1918 only and just for two years. Azerbaijan regained its independence back in 1991.

Thus history, culture and temper of Italy and Azerbaijan somehow echoed for me during this trip and I decided to write this post and share it with you.

On this note I want to wish everyone happy and sunny summer and post two photos one taken inside Sheki Khan Sarayi in Sheki and one in Duomo in Milan. Similar things bring admiration, enjoyment and happiness to people no matter location, race or religion…as long as there is peace and financial ability to think about something more than food and shelter…

Inside Duomo, Milan...

Inside Sheki Khan Palace, Sheki...

28 May - Republic Day in Azerbaijan

Just like any child who wants to get independent and do everything as he considers appropriate starting well once he/she is one year old or maybe earlier, historically every nation struggled for its independence. Just like in communities one can sometimes witness that one bullies the other and doesn't really strive for the best of all but mainly dear self, in empires as well smaller nations suffer and as a result of constant and continuous undermining live through risks of losing its self-esteem, pride and belief in its future. Thus when in 1920, 2 year old Republic of Azerbaijan was invaded by Soviet Army (I am mentioning only modern history) and for more than 70 years had a brainwashing that it is not good enough or intelligent or capable enough (with thousands repressed and frightened) to represent itself, its history, culture and development, it would naturally take a while for young Republic to regain its confidence, appreciation and love towards its essence...

28 May is the Republic Day in Azerbaijan. This year we see many more young people carrying proudly the flag and celebrating the holiday. Our young Republic just like a growing child is getting more confident with more knowledge, new skills and every new achievement. Azerbaijan longed to represent itself, to talk about itself independently not just listening as an observer how someone else would do it on its behalf...

In 2012 Azerbaijan as the winner of Eurovision 2011 will host the contest in Baku. In Azerbaijan when someone visits the other's home the first thing he/she hears would be "Xoş gəlmisiniz" what is translated as "Welcome" - meaning - welcome to my home...This is said no matter how often one visits the other. Thus we say to Europe "Welcome to Azerbaijan" - land of fire, music, hospitality and joy, oriental wisdom, tolerance and kindness…(sorry but can't get modest today...only praise comes into my mind :))

With best wishes from Azerbaijan...be well...

My earlier posts on 28 May can be read as follows (yr. 2008, yr. 2009, yr. 2010).

9th of May - Victory Day in Azerbaijan...our Nurmammad baba...

Recently I was at friend’s birthday party where grandfather of the family was also present.

"Nurmammad Ahmadov was born in 1925 in Sheki. In 1942 his birth certificate was torn apart and birth date re-registered as 1924 so that he would be grown enough to go to war"...At that war as all other young people he lost his youth…he also had a severe injury on his hands. What he did not lose is his faith and love towards humanity and life.

He said that for victory day young journalists in Sheki came for an interview and he still wasn’t able to talk without tears…he was telling that journalist girl hugged him and kissed him asking not to cry…"they reached Stavropolskiy kray and next task was to free the village. They moved in the forest through swamp for two days. Frost reached -32° Celcius at night. His hands and feet got frozen. He lost his fingers on right hand and left hand fingers were also damaged harshly."

Nurmammad baba (baba means grandfather in Azeri) is 86 now and is one of the most literate company one could find…he would recite you poems and bring quotes from books of various authors in most different subjects...his eyes don’t let him read that much now but passion while reciting reveals his thirst for literature…His passion is not only literature but also checkers and chess. "After rehabilitation in the hospital and back in Sheki he rewrote twice the books of Azeri classic M. S. Ordubadi "Sword and Pen" and Russian writer V. M. Kojevnikov "Sword and Shield" in order to learn writing with his left hand. After he graduated from Economics University with honors and became a successful professional in his field. He also participated in Republic checker championship in 1962 and got the title of "Candidate Master". In 1965 in tournament organized by capital city of Moscow at that time with participants from Baltic States and three Republics of Caucasus he got the title of "chess master of 1st grade". Nurmammad baba is happy husband, father of three, grandfather of seven and great grandfather of one."

In Azeri we have a wonderful word describing people - “nürani”. This is word that we use about mostly aged people that shine from within…His name is Nurmammad…when he was born his parents must have felt that this “nur” i.e. light that every child is born with would stay with their son for his life time…

War must be the extreme memory that he and many veterans have. To all other events in life they must be approaching with wisdom and tolerance remembering extremes that people and life in general could go to. Nurmammad baba was telling how happy he is for every opportunity of young people, how proud he is for every achievement of everyone and how lucky we are with amazing developments around us. And in all this there was no pathos or patronizing…only wisdom, calmness and love of a humble and again very wise gentleman…

People like Nurmammad baba are gems of not only Sheki or Azerbaijan but I would say of our whole planet…one post is just one post…it’s pity for me to see that knowledge and memory of years are not recorded properly or maybe they are...it’s not like I am following all. In any case I decided to write at least this short note to express even partially my adoration and respect towards Nurmammad baba and to every veteran who played/plays role in bringing peace and wisdom to our lives and planet. God bless…

a bit official photo that doesn't really convey Nurmammad baba's character...once war was over life had a lot to offer to everyone including Nurmammad baba...
P.S. my earlier posts on Victory Day can be read here and here.

May is in the air...

May has come and nature is continuing to flourish…April has been quite rainy in Baku and Sheki but in May even rain smells spring. Last week I had a very short runaway to Sheki to participate at a family wedding. On my way there I took some photos that I want to share with you today.

Spring is usually short in Azerbaijan and gives in too quickly to warm and after hot summer. Many or I would say most of us are too engaged with everyday routine…At some point when we raise our eyes we notice that many trees have already welcomed spring and are awake and green…and we think to ourselves “when did that happen?...”…this is true for so many things in life…

Stop a minute…Enjoy spring…Enjoy May…

All three photos (except for last fourth one) were taken from car window...I say I was lucky to catch these ))

Stop a minute…Enjoy spring…Enjoy May…

Milli süfrə kvarteti...or...Quartet of Azeri traditional cuisine...

If/when you travel to Azerbaijan you would notice that when you stop in cafes and restaurants to have a meal, together with starters you would be also offered to have greens that would come next to cheese, cucumber and tomato plate. Greens would include basil, tarragon, mint, coriander and many more depending on season and preference. And then for those who have never been to Azerbaijan before would be amazing to see that people would just pick up greens from the table and eat it…that’s the tradition…now when the world is talking about what is good and healthy no one would question how healthy is to have greens accompanying your lunches and dinners…and our great-grandfathers knew it looooooooooooong ago...

Greens as almost anything else are availabe the whole year but in spring we all here know that they are super natural since its the season...you would even hear people saying that greens are gone wild (göyərti yaman qızışıb)...

Now...when I was putting my younger son to bed I was thinking how to name my this post and this very title came to my mind...I was wrong to think that there are only four plates in the picture...later I saw that there are four plates and bread...this composition is as traditional as it can ever be...Thus although there are five objects but actually "table quartet" would be: cheese, greens, cucumber+tomato and bread...this tastes excellent, believe me )

We in Azerbaijan as I believe anywhere else love food, tasty food...knowledge of what goes well with what is inherited almost with blood). On this theme I wrote before about what goes great with watermelon here.

photo taken back in 2008 in Sheki bazaar waiting for its turn to be posted...generosity of nature is amazing...

as traditional Azeri start for the casual meal as it can ever be...photo taken earlier this week when we stopped for lunch on our way to Sheki...

Spring cleaning...

I must confess that I re-read my post written in May 2007 now and smiled to first sentence of it) why not, good idea....

Today I am writing the post devoted to “spring cleaning”. I could basically repeat what I wrote in 2007...as things haven’t changed since then…

I spent Novruz holidays in Sheki this year. Again got impressed how most of women are keen to keep their households immaculately clean and even if everything looks perfect still spring deep cleaning is a must.

Although modern technologies are welcome there are things which kind of just can't get any better )…such as…broom....nothing is simple with brooms either...since there is "tuğ" (which is soft broom works great indoors and with dust) there is "süpürgə" which is harsh broom works great with carpets or better outdoors and there is another type of "süpürgə" with which you can even broom your garden. And I must mention that everything is made from a natural material and this knowledge comes from ancestors…

When I got acquainted with Feng shui and read about keeping ones living environment clean I caught myself thinking that Sheki people (and not only) inherit Feng shui habits with their upbringing…since spring cleaning is just another norm be it in Sheki be it in Feng shui…

Couple of photos...

"brushed" saffron at background...

"broomed" garden in Sheki awaiting spring...
"broomed" garden in Sheki awaiting spring...II

brooms rushing to the market...courtesy of Far Fario...

everyone can find THE broom for her household...I took this photo in 2007! in Sheki bazaar to share it with you only now...)