Friday, October 17, 2008

Unknown Azerbaijan…Mereze…

Today I am starting a series of posts titled Unknown Azerbaijan…

First post is devoted to the place called Mereze…this is one of the first locations that one passes when leaving Baku and going towards north-west of Azerbaijan.

I need to mention right away that during my last trip to regions I had an amazing guide, Mr Oktay Rzayev about whom I hope to write separately. Thanks to him the trip turned into a miracle of discoveries, knowledge and amusement. Thank you, Oktay muellim (muellim is how we address teachers, scholars and in general older male people in Azerbaijan to show respect).
The thing is that Mereze is the place that I would drive by each time going to Sheki and drive by swiftly because its nature is deserted and nude comparing to green landscapes of Shamakhi (Şamaxı) and other…I was assuming wrongly that there was nothing interesting in Mereze…as we all know assumptions often take place when there is lack of knowledge…my another wrong assumption was that Mereze is named after Mereze gypsies…I forgot to think that we call “merez” - people that do not feel very well and here! with guidance of Oktay muellim we drive inside Mereze and beautiful landscape together with holy place where people got cured from bronchial and alike diseases opens up (this is where the name Mereze takes its roots) …and the first thought that stroke me was how wrong I was to think that Mereze was boring…without zest…wrong, wrong assumptions that happen now and then…
Hope you enjoy the photos and those of you looking for adventures and discoveries please don’t rush to drive by Mereze next time…



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Thursday, October 16, 2008

Autumn...and not only...

Autumn or fall is rain, wind, dirt, puddles, depression BUT it is also red, yellow leaves, less heat, fall of the leaves and beautiful period of nature. So much depends on mood. I would say that good mood and good weather are interconnected. Good weather cheers one up; good mood enables us to appreciate the weather…and not only…


P.S. I had sent my modest review (please see the post lower) of The Kite Runner to the author Khaled Hosseini and got the below reply from him that was very pleasant to read:
Dear Ayten,
Thank you for sharing the review you wrote on my novel, The Kite Runner. I am very touched by your kind words. I am also thrilled that you enjoyed The Kite Runner and really appreciate your taking the time to write to me. It is great for me to hear that my story has resonated with you.
Best wishes,
Khaled Hosseini
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Friday, October 03, 2008

The Kite Runner, a review (kind of)...

When I was lent the book, I had already been told that it was impressive. So my expectations were high and positive…

It is amazing what a book can do to a person. One can sit in a beautiful park on a sunny day putting away all her concerns and suddenly be transported somewhere far, to Afghanistan… all of a sudden everything that surrounds you vanishes, one doesn’t see blue sky, high trees, everything is forgotten, one is there weeping over the destiny of a little boy.

That was me weeping in the grand gardens of Topkapi Palace in Istanbul after I had received my Croatian visa ahead of the FI retreat and decided to indulge myself with a few beautiful hours of reading. But I was reading about war and suffering children and there was no peace inside me, my hands were cold, my handkerchief wet, my heart aching.

“It doesn’t take you too long to cry,” my friends would tell me once I had told them about the book. That’s true but this book is so real. Read it… you will feel the same.
The first similarity that I discover is the word jan used by the author. We use this word a lot in Azerbaijan. Jan means soul, spirit, it is untranslatable (that is why it is not translated by the author either, like many other words that he left in Farsi). Jan is how parents and grandparents reply to their children and grandchildren when they are called instead of saying simply “Yes.” I see that in Afghanistan they add jan to names: “Amir jan” We say “ana jan” (dear mother), “ata jan” (dear father), Azerbaijan. I like the idea of adding jan to names and suggested calling one of my relatives “Arif jan” but he doesn’t agree. He hasn’t read the book, he is not under the spell.

Then I see that Afghans also drink a lot of tea, just as we do. We use the same Farsi words and people are so similar everywhere: all parents love similarly, all lovers feel the same tenderness, all children are vulnerable and perfect everywhere and war is so equally ridiculous and terrifying…

I see that Afghans are very attached to their traditions, which sometimes don’t allow them to develop and free themselves from unnecessary borders and limitations. I see that they also often do lots of thinking and worry that breaking with tradition might be equivalent to betraying their identity, their ancestors. I see that whoever leaves his country with bitterness doesn’t find happiness and inner peace until he accepts, forgives, loves his past and his roots. I see that in many immigrants from Azerbaijan too.

As I read the book my own thoughts keep coming up, I stop, think, look around: “This garden is so beautiful. It is amazing what human hands can create,” I tell myself before diving in back again and finding myself in the ruins of Kabul and the neatness of San Francisco.

A couple of hours pass, I have a headache. The book is over. I am happy with the ending. Some of my wishes about the ending came true. It is simply a book… I know, but I had wished. I close the book, open it, read about the author again, write down the name of his other book, analyse the cover and put it carefully into my bag. I wouldn’t give it to my 20-year-old sister to read. I don’t want her to read about cruelty although she has to know that “there are bad people in this world, and sometimes bad people stay bad. Sometimes you have to stand up to them.” Anyway, not now… Maybe later when she is a grown up and in case she has become infected with the now-widespread “glass is half empty” disease and doesn’t notice all the good around her.

I get up to walk and I am thinking how lucky we are to live in peace and not be caught up like mere toys in someone’s sick war games.

I am heading to a dinner with a Turkish former colleague. “How is Baku?” is his usual first question. “Pretty and peaceful” is my positive reply, instead of the usual sighing and whining. It might be a surprise to him why I mention peace, because he hasn’t read the book… yet!
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Tribute to Thor Heyerdahl

I wrote once about Caucasian Albanian temple in Kish, village of Sheki in this blog.

Today I am posting a photo of a bronze portrait of Thor Heyerdahl that stands in front of the temple who said the following during his visit to Sheki.

“Scandinavian mythology describes a god called ODIN that came to Nothern Europe from a place called Azer. I have studied these writings and concluded that it is not mythology. It is real history and geography.”

Personally I am fascinated by grand work Thor Heyerdahl was able to do during his life. Thanks to him our Caucasian Albanian temple in Kish got revitalized as well…
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Thursday, October 02, 2008

Presidential Elections in Azerbaijan...

This year on October 15, 2008 Azerbaijan is having Presidential elections. Fortunately this year it is not allowed to glue photos of candidates on fronts of the buildings. This is very good as unsticking those photos later was always ruining the facades...

This is how the photos are displayed this year...I took this photo when I saw the man analysing the candidates...visually...
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Friday, September 26, 2008

Hospitality

How long can any table be?? As long as it needs to be to accommodate ALL the guests :)
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Tuesday, September 23, 2008

XIX century Minaret

This is the picture of ancient minaret dated 1882 that is currently protected by Ministry of Culture and Tourism of Azerbaijan as national property…it is located in region number 1 of Sheki as well. Unfortunately it does not function at the moment...This minaret proves once more how everywhere around the world people in the past were eager to create difficult structures in complex locations (considering there were no heavy load vehicles…) to prove their beliefs and loyalty…I hope this human creation stays for many more years so that our heirs are able to enjoy it as well…
Taking this opportunity I wish everyone who keeps the fast happy Ramadan.

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Tuesday, September 09, 2008

Absheron...

As you might know Baku is situated on Absheron peninsula. Climate of Absheron peninsula is mostly dry...Therefore there are couple of fruits that grow very well here...One of these fruits is fig. Currently we are having fig season in Absheron. This is the photo session we did last Sunday in our dacha in Absheron so that I can reflect the season on my blog...These are white figs. There are also black figs but we do not have this tree in our dacha...

Thank you nature, thank you, land :)



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Friday, September 05, 2008

Why Gagarin?...

This year I discovered new restaurant in Sheki…it used to be there for a long time but I never knew about it…it is called “Gagarin restaurant”…Why Gagarin? Because it is opened in the area that used to be the park named after Gagarin and the owner left the name as it is…

The main advantage of the restaurant is its perfect location…the view that opens up from the restaurant is astonishing…sitting there and sipping tea at sunset may turn into an unforgettable experience…I strongly advise…maybe this is also one of the reasons why the place is named after Gagarin…makes one think of unique view that Gagarin saw…
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Thursday, September 04, 2008

...Peaceful moment...

Today I am posting a photo that we took when visiting our auntie (it is a must to go and see elder people when one visits Sheki, you can of course not visit but that would show disrespect and would upset the elder)...

This photo was taken when there was a moment of peace and my son actually sat for couple of minutes (this happens quite rarely since children as you know have "energiser batteries" that never finish...God bless...)

What might be interesting for you on the photo is the mattress that I am sitting on (every family in Sheki has mattresses like this. They are meant to be put on the floor for leisure times). See also "mutekke" kind of a pillow that has a shape that you see...This is for leaning purposes also for leisure times...I don't know if you agree with me but although everything is so simple in the room it brings peace and comfort...this is how I felt there...

It is very rare that people would sit now on the floor in Azerbaijan and have meals for example as it used to be before...but for leisure purposes there are always comfortable mattress and "mutekke" waiting for you in every house in Sheki...:)

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Wednesday, September 03, 2008

View...

This is the view that opens up from the square before the mayor's office of Sheki. Apologize for the quality of the pictures.

The little girl on the picture is Munise, one of my cousins who would go anywhere I went, if possible :) Her energy is astonishing...This time Munise and I took one of our relatives to mayor's office as she had to register to be an observer on entry exams...and we took these photos while waiting for her :)

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Tuesday, September 02, 2008

1st region…

The place that I come from in Sheki is called “gyshlag” what means “place to spend winter” as this part of the city is located in the bottom of the city and is warmer than the top of the city called ”yaylag” – “place to spend summer”…

The city is also divided into so called regions…i.e. the first the highest (in location) the most ancient and oldest part of the city is the 1st region…(our house for instance is situated in 21st region)…as it happens very often people rarely go to other regions of the city unless it is necessary…tourists in reverse very often explore the places they visit in very detail and see many places that locals never visit. Although I visit Sheki almost every summer lately I try to find something/somewhere new that I didn’t see before…Therefore this year my husband and I decided to explore region Number 1 of the city of Sheki. It is located on the mountains itself I would say…the roads are/were paved in stones…it is very easy to go down but going up is quite a challenge…can imagine how harsh winters are…here are some pictures that we took while exploring…
View from region # 1
I wonder how the owners put hay up there...must be hard work...

See the top of the furthest mountain...nothing grows there since it is so high and cold...

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Monday, September 01, 2008

Two beauties...

Hello, everyone! I am just back from Sheki...thankfully trip was great as always and here I am back in Baku...
Today I am posting photos of two beauties…
To be honest I am not sure what causes the fact that I started to notice beauty around me more: my growing age or my sculptor husband who always draws my attention to everything that surrounds… In any case to my delight I see more and more (this is what I think…I wouldn’t be surprised if one day I realize that I haven’t noticed many things before)…
Ok…my epilogue turned out long…sorry… See if you share my opinion that these creatures are very, very pretty…I couldn’t pass by without taking their photos :)
P.S. Thank you very much for your great comments, everyone!




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Thursday, August 07, 2008

View...

A bit dark photo but view was beautiful, believe me...:)
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Friday, August 01, 2008

...Miracles of nature...

I wrote about pomegranate earlier in my blog…today I am posting more photos to show how flowers turn into fruits…I think this is amazing…like everything in nature…
On a completely different subject...I want to share with you something that happened to me today: when I was driving today to work, I stopped to let the pedestrian man to cross the road...the man stopped to let me drive showing with his gesture that I am a female and he is gentleman...dilemma...who lets whom go first? driver - the pedestrian or gentleman - the woman?...funny :) very nice of him...at the end I drove and gave him thank you smile :)




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Wednesday, July 30, 2008

Land of plenty...

This scenery opens up before you when you drive to village of Ivanovka in Ismailli region of Azerbaijan. People in Ivanovka, Molokans, were deported from Russia in XIX century or so and spread to many places including this village in Ismailli. This field of wheat is amazing and stops one's breath...



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Seven waterfalls



As I mentioned earlier Qabala has beautiful waterfalls that are called "Seven waterfalls". Road to those waterfalls is quite difficult as it is a village road and one has to pass even through a small spring or river...but roads never scare locals (because they take thing easy by nature) and foreigners (because they usually drive jeeps). Waterfalls are quite high and one sees as far as he/she can and what is above higher in the mountains I do not know. But there must be other waterfalls so that there are seven of them.

People in Azerbaijan believe that anywhere one goes there must be tea place and this place is no exception. Tea place is available by the waterfalls as well and whoever desires makes a stop to listen to sound of water and enjoy the scenery that nature has granted.
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Tuesday, July 29, 2008

Peace...

There are waterfalls in Qabala called “Seven Waterfalls”. To reach those waterfalls one has to go through a village that has beautiful landscape that I am trying to convey via these pictures. To me this village seemed as peaceful as any place could be…so green…so quiet…so beautiful…so big and so free…well maybe village inhabitants have a quite different view with harsh living conditions especially in winter (this is my personal opinion of someone coming from the city spoiled by heaters and air conditioning…maybe villagers do not think so...) although with such mountains around them winter must be really harsh actually…

In any case the place is beautiful…one wants to stay on the grass and just watch the mountains and sky…but we did not do so as we were in a hurry to see the waterfalls…pictures of which will be posted tomorrow...

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Monday, July 14, 2008

Fish feast in Qabala

This weekend I visited Qabala and had fish by Nohur lake (about which I wrote earlier.) Although local people were calling that small fish as “river fish” to me they seemed very much like sprats. Interestingly they were selling it in kilos. So you had to buy a kilo of fried fish and then if it wasn’t enough another kilo or half a kilo…and so on :)

P.S. Just had a comment from Kris McCracken asking how this fish taste...They taste good and it is fun to eat them :)
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Wednesday, July 09, 2008

Kur River

Two biggest rivers that go through Azerbaijan are Kur and Araz. Strange/bad thing that happened during Soviet times is that all Azeri words were translated first into Russian and then further to other languages. This resulted in total mispronouncement (if I may say) of Azeri words. For example in Azeri we call capital of Azerbaijan Bakı, in Russian it is called Baku and now in all languages the city is called Baku…the same is true for river Kur. We pronounce it Kur, in Russian it is pronounced Kura, in English and other languages I am not sure…

These are pictures that my husband Teymur took for me in Zardab region of Azerbaijan which he recently visited. Zardab is located in so called “aran” region of Azerbaijan (means lowland in Azerbaijani), is located in centre of the country and Kur River passes right through it. As you see I have enlisted all my family members in my blogging so that I have enough pictures to share with you :)

Hope you enjoy! :)




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Friday, July 04, 2008

Fog in Quba...

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