When art talks about the country...

Yesterday we went to personal photo exhibition of a good friend, Fakhriyya Mammadova.

Today with her permission my post will be written around one of the photos she has made.

It often happens that one wanders around the exhibits and some of them excite you, the others make you smile, think, relax etc...

There is this photo that you will see lower that talked to me...first I liked the colors, then I realized that its theme is so close to me...in awhile I knew that I want to share it with you...

You might have heard that there are places on this planet where gas emissions come out of earth and those parts of land are constantly in fire...these kind of areas exist close to Baku and one place is called Yanardag i.e. Burning Mountain. They say that this was the reason why Zoroastrians from India stayed in Azerbaijan when they were crossing the country...where it could be more natural to worship the fire if not here...

Centuries passed...you won't see people worshiping fire at Yanardag now but you would see tourists and native people that visit Burning Mountain and places alike to watch the fire and let it mesmerize them...some people would go, look at fire, take photos etc and leave; for Azeri would be also very natural to look for a place to sit and watch the fire for awhile thinking about everything and nothing...the only thing that would be lacking for a complete happiness at that moment would be...yes...tea :)) (could be unexpected for a foreigner but veeeery natural for Azeri. You can find my other posts on tea here and here:).

Well...what might seem a bit unusual and awkward thing to do for others is quite a comfortable thing for art person...this is how I imagine Fakhriyya ended up taking a photo of an after tea ceremony in Yanardag. This is purely my interpretation of the photo which maybe is far from reality but then when it comes to art one never knows when reality gives up to imagination...

Be well...and arty :)

Nizami Ganjavi...

There are things, events and people too grand for just a post...to talk about them in detail one would need to do a thorough scientific work...

This post is devoted to Nizami Ganjavi...one of grand figures of literature...Nizami Ganjavi belonged to XII century when people had no mobiles to communicate, computers to search for information and airplanes to travel...I can picture Nizami Ganjavi sitting calmly in his house in Ganja and creating his jewels one by one...no rush, no haste, no interruption...just him and his talent, wisdom and poetry...what a blessing...

Nizami Ganjavi is best known for his "Khamsa", five long poems, five enduring masterpieces...: "The Storehouse of Mysteries", "Khosrow and Shirin", "Leyli and Majnun", "The Book of Alexander" and "The Seven Beauties". I won't talk about these works here...I think one should "talk" about these works creatively, poetically, for instance creating ballets based on these stories as Qara Qarayev did creating his ballet "The Seven Beauties"...I would just say that if Europeans remember Romeo and Juliet story of Shakespeare seeing someone deeply, truly and madly in love...then Azeris and many other people in the East would remember Leyli and Majnun written by Nizami Ganjavi...

Six years ago my husband and I met a professor in British Library who was writing a book about Nizami and his works. When I noticed her book I exclaimed with excitement: "oh, I come from the same country as Nizami..."...and she said "well, he wrote in Persian so for us he is a Persian poet"...I started to tell that he was born and comes from the city in Azerbaijan, Ganja...that he was/is Ganjavi etc, etc...but didn't seem to convince her very much...did I have to...I don't know...I am free to think that he was Azeri :)...people like Nizami belong to the whole universe anyway...all we can do is read and enjoy his poetry and share the pride...

Be well :)

Artistic portrayal of Nizami Ganjavi on a carpet...
Nizami Ganjavi monument in Baku...created by sculptor Fuad Abdurahmanov (who was originally from Sheki) in 1949.

Bahram Gur, sculptural fountain, considered as first one in Baku is devoted to epic hero of Nizami Ganjavi's "The Seven Beauties". Created by sculptors Albert Mustafayev, Qorxmaz Sucaddinov and Aslan Rustamov (my father in law) in 1960s.

Shirvanshah Palace the landmark of Baku...

Going back to my previous post on landmark of Baku, Maiden Tower (Qız Qalası) I need to mention another important historical landmark of our capital...Shirvanshah Palace that dates back to XV century....

Shirvanshah Palace was built during the rule of Shirvanshahs in Azerbaijan (861-1538) when capital of Shirvanshah was moved from Shemakha to Baku.

Palace of course shared hard times of Azerbaijan...museums and art struggle and thrive together with countries you see...Nonetheless broad walls of Shirvanshah Palace stood proudly to all mischief of history and reached XXI century to witness Azerbaijan of today that is able to protect its heritage and pass it with care to future generations...

Recently pieces that were kept in fund of the Palace were put on display and walking through the rooms of the Palace is even more interesting and educational now...For some reason I also have a feeling that exhibits "live" if they are displayed and viewed...in return they breathed new life into the Palace and take the visitors to more ancient times of Baku and Azerbaijan in general...

Enjoy the tour...

Its all about fruits now in Azerbaijan...part II

Since its all about fruits now in Azerbaijan this also implies that season of "mürəbbə" is officially open. I have mentioned "mürəbbə" ealier on this blog here. It is a sweet preserve to be served with tea but its not a jam...this preserve is not jammed; fruits stay whole and "undamaged". Well prepared mürəbbə should keep the colour and flavour as much as possible and convey the special taste of THE fruit. Well my post is not really devoted to mürəbbə today. Those of you who is interested in Azeri cuisine please visit Farida's Cookbook here.

Yesterday I popped in to bazaar where I bought some fruits and took below photo. I only had my four year old son with me who is too young to help me with load and bargaining :).

I am all for equal rights and woman emancipation if you wish but I kind of still expect men to offer help to carry heavy bags and open the doors for ladies. Fortunately this is still the case in Azerbaijan (mostly:) and few women would get offended at extra attention they usually get. There is of course that fine border when being extra polite to women can become extra familiar and this is something to be handled...But...when I was offered help yesterday and my hesitant offer of tip was interpreted as offence and old man at parking said couple of kind wishes/praises in addition to thanking for the coins he received (his usual habit:) I kind of felt good and thought to myself that being a gentleman never harms and does not belittle any man or woman. In modern life when all rights and obligations have mixed up and men and women work shoulder to shoulder I am not sure if hierarchy etiquette allows men to stay gentlemen and women feminine. Well personally I hope that men would continue to be confident/strong enough to stay gentlemen and women confident/comfortable enough to stay feminine. These are the thoughts I wanted to share with you today...:) 

Be well :)

Maiden Tower (Qız Qalası) the landmark of Baku...

Has it ever happened to you that anywhere you travel you make sure to see all or most of the landmarks of the place, take photos and listen to historic facts...and realize at some point that you have spent much less time looking analyzing learning enjoying historic places of your own home city and country.

When we say Paris - Eiffel Tower comes in front of our eyes, we remember New York and recall Statue of Liberty, we talk about London and imagine Big Ben...most probably every city has the place, the landmark, the symbol that associates with it mostly...more people talk about it, more they mention it, more that symbol stays in the memories...becomes the city’s landmark...associates with it.

In Soviet times it used to be popular to spend vacations outside of Azerbaijan thus many Azeris knew much more about resorts of other Republics or Europe (for those who could travel) etc than Azerbaijan. Last ten years or so many Azeris started to kind of rediscover their country, its regions, history, geography, «treasures» that are here to explore, cherish and enjoy (this is my personal opinion:).

Baku's landmark is Qız Qalası - Maiden Tower. Hereby I want to start, continue, join, enforce the process of associating Qız Qalası (Maiden Tower) with Baku - Baku with Maiden Tower (Qız Qalası)...

Maiden Tower of XII century or possibly earlier is one of UNESCO's World Heritage places. It continues to be a theme for many scientific works and thoughts and is a distinct tower to enjoy beautiful views of old and modern Baku and Caspian. For those interested to know more about the tower here is the article on Maiden Tower.

I am posting a photo that I borrowed from above mentioned article with of view of Maiden Tower in 1860 but I also want to share with you the video devoted to International Art Festival “Qız Qalası” that took place in May this year and hosted artists from different countries who worked in the Old City inspired by views and architecture of Maiden Tower. Enjoy and remember to visit Maiden Tower next time you are in Baku :)

Its all about fruits now in Azerbaijan...

I must have mentioned earlier that Azerbaijan is blessed to have nine climate zones out of available eleven...thus different regions are famous for having different fruits and vegetables that are particularly delicious and special. Traditionally each fruit/vegetable is expected to be available in a particular season of course...With development and modern life fruits and vegetables started to get imported from everywhere...and are available the whole year...At the same time there is more and more information about genetic engineering that is getting more advanced around the world...Older I grow, more I hear - less I want to buy a fruit that travelled from far away and continues to look perfect...buying strawberries from a near village gives me not only more taste but also more comfort; and eating that strawberry I hope that engineering in food products won't reach regions of Azerbaijan...

Well...fruit season started with strawberries and cherry plums here (not sure if cherry plums grow everywhere, it can be sweet and sour; we have a particularly delicious sort that is called peyvənd alça/alycha; the sort that has rich sour-sweet taste) and continues with sweet and sour cherries and apricots etc etc etc.

Wishing you a healthy and delicious summer! :))

Strawberries everywhere...
Cherry plums...

Closer look to cherry plums...

28th of May - Republic Day in Azerbaijan

28th of May is celebrated as Republic Day in Azerbaijan. This is the day when Democratic Republic of Azerbaijan was declared in 1918 and Act of Independence of Azerbaijan was adopted. This was the first Democratic Republic in the Orient...Republic that lasted then for 23 months only....

Azerbaijan declared its independence for the second time in 1991.

My posts on this date: in 2009 here and in 2008 here.

I was thinking today what I would write this year...History shows that people always fought for their borders and land, for their right to have identity, to be independent. Globalization might be an interesting neologism but unfortunately historically there were always the ones who tried to repress and the ones that had to struggle (in addition to many other things). Its year 2010. Azerbaijan Republic is gradually building up. It is representing itself internationally independently; and its citizen and/or native Azeris are still learning sometimes to love, respect and be proud of their Republic.

Today I am posting a photo of Azeri passport. On many borders I saw customs officials who were curiously examining my passport...often they never saw one or never heard of a place called Azerbaijan...surprise, surprise, the person carrying this passport didn't look any different :)

"Land of Fire", situated on cross roads of East and West, rich with natural resources and motherland to talented people, Azerbaijan, as any other Republic is striving for peace and wellbeing on its territory...and...further. So be it! Happy Republic Day! :)

Have you seen a rainbow this year?

Recently I came across a beautiful question...«have you seen a rainbow this year?»...Rainbow that reminds of childhood, happy and cheerful moments. I think anyone who sees a rainbow smiles at this beautiful phenomenon of nature. The question implied that until a person is able to notice rainbows, to raise his/her eyes to see and enjoy, to smile to this event of nature that means that the person continues to live and is able to gladden his heart and soul. Soon after I heard this question my relative in Sheki, Turkan Mustafayeva, shared with us above picture that she took from her balcony. The view from their balcony is beautiful. They are blessed to see gorgeous mountains before them...currently buried in rich and deep green foliage...I am thanking Turkan for sharing with us this amazing instant of nature...and hope you will enjoy it too...:) 

P.S. After I made this post I received a nice note from my another relative originally from Sheki, Arifa Salayeva, who reminded that one should make a wish when sees a rainbow "when you see a rainbow, draw or make a small cross on the ground, after doing this you may then make your wish"...

Also she recalled a beautiful poem/song that I want to share with you too:

somewhere over the rainbow
skies are blue
and the dreams that you dare to dream
really do come true...:) 

“Zhiguli” or part of our history...

There are different ways how a person looks at everything…as they say “glass can feel/seem/look half full or half empty…”

Nowadays it is very popular to complain…we often complain about everything starting from weather and continuing with anything…as if better we live more we complain…

As most of you know Soviet times were all about “Zhiguli”s or “Lada cars”…People were happy to have/to be allowed to have a car…nowadays there are no restrictions…cars everywhere…after being happy for awhile that there are no restrictions and there are new opportunities everyone started to complain that cars are too big, streets are too narrow, traffic jams are too irritating…etc etc…

Well…Zhiguli on below pictures belongs to the neighbor of my in-laws…looks like he is not getting depressed that his car is not the fastest and the biggest on this street...but loves the car he has got…his glass must be half full…hopefully…:)

Why “Zhiguli” on this blog? Because it is a part of our history…we might not always like our history but it is what it is with all the good and the bad…hopefully today we (can) create a better history for tomorrow…each of us…

Be well :)

9th of May...

Today I want to write about 9th of May...

9th of May is celebrated as Victory Day in World War II (1941-1945) in post-Soviet countries. Soviet era left behind many ambiguous memories but there is one thing that everyone remembers with pride about our general past. People of all 15 Republics fought together shoulder to shoulder against fascism during WWII and gained victory with their blood and lives. This memory has no regrets and second thoughts. This is the history that everyone is proud to be a part of. There are fewer and fewer veterans among us. 9th of May is their day. Today each and every “post-Soviet” person remembers veterans and victims of World War II and celebrates victory. My post on 9th of May that I wrote back in 2007 where I mention Ahmadiyya Jabrailov, one of famous veterans of Sheki, can be read here.

There was this wish that was quite popular in Soviet times...people were wishing to each other “peaceful sky”...This is still quite relevant nowadays in this uncertain world...and very relevant to Azerbaijan that is in cease-fire situation...

I took below pictures today...when walking with my kids in Baku...I thought to myself that I would post them and remember and thank all veterans of World War II and everyone else who acts for peace and justice, for this peaceful sky...Thank you! Happy Victory Day!!! 

Many countries are celebrating 9th of May as Mother's Day...well I guess there is something that unites people in many countries of the world today then...since every mother prays for peace on Earth...Happy Mother's Day!

Traditions...Backgammon...

Backgammon game is called “nərd” in Azerbaijan. Just in case for those who don’t know dictionary says “backgammon is a game for two people played on a board with pieces moved according to throws of the dice”.

Behind this definition there is a lot of passion, excitement, heat for many men and quite often women in Azerbaijan who love to play backgammon. What happens usually is that after a good meal and a cup of tea many friends would continue tea ceremony playing backgammon...When game heats up often tea is forgotten, pieces are struck harder on the board (with loud sound to stress good chances of the dice) and winner is anticipating how he would be teasing his friend later saying “well, one day I will teach you how to play backgammon”. And then of course the other player wants to even the score and the excitement continues...Depending on temperament of the players game would be accompanied with laughter, teasing, jokes and stories about previous victories of the players (needless to say that every player insists that he is The professional). My father is playing less backgammon nowadays but I remember very well how he and his close friend would play a game or two at our place and we girls would run in to the room now and then and ask “so, who is winning” and of course the answer from both would be “why are you asking? don’t you know?” We didn’t know but would play up to them and choose one or the other to support or tease...these are very warm and kind memories of my childhood that I cherish very much...

It is still very common to see here and there people playing backgammon in the parks or local tea houses in Azerbaijan. I am not personally a backgammon player but I think that it is the game that can distract from routine and troubles as well as give an opportunity to interact and socialize...something that is happening less and less with games turning into virtual and socializing becoming cyber...

Some pictures on backgammon...

My cousin, Qiyasov Shahin, is specializing in creating beautiful pieces of backgammon from different sorts of wood. With different ornaments and shades depending on type of wood and complexity of work all pieces are handcrafted in his studio in Sheki. Shahin's pieces are in many local and foreign private collections. He can be contacted by following emails f_kh_g@hotmail.com; qiyasli@gmail.com or via this blog.

Shahin's backgammon...

I am not sure if you can see on this photo but actually there are backgammon sessions going on there. I took this photo last summer while in Sheki and since then the photo was waiting for its time to be shared with you...:) Couldn't go closer...feeling kind of shy :)) local mentality you see :)

This is one of my favourite pictures that I took in Kish village of Sheki back in year 2007. You can read my post on this photo here but today it fits perfectly to this post too :)

Spring...peaceful spring...

It’s April. Spring is almost here but not quite yet...everyone is so much looking forward to it...it is already proven by now that sunny and pleasant weather affects people positively...thus people must be at least a little bit happier when sun rays wake them up in the morning...in March when I travelled to Sheki for Novruz I saw mountains giving in to spring; trees ready to blossom; neat gardens of Sheki waiting to wake up and people excited to see days getting longer and warmer...Isn't it beautiful...

Although they say that we live in era of individualism and egocentrism I believe that war and terror in one part of the world can not mean full peace for somewhere else...at the end of the day a person is a part of the family, country, of planet Earth...I hope that there will be less violence and killings in the world and people around the world including every parent who has his/her son serving in war zone would be able to enjoy their spring...cause without peace there is no spring...

Peaceful spring everyone...:)

mountains giving in to spring...
(photo taken on the road to Sheki, apologies for the quality)
Everything and everyone looking forward to spring...

Mountains...

neat gardens of Sheki...

people...

March in Azerbaijan...

Dear readers, although its already April I still want to go back and write about March...

...

March is all about holidays in Azerbaijan. We are celebrating Women's Day and continuously welcoming :) Novruz i.e. spring. Novruz is a holiday when people are kind of uniting with nature...since spring is coming, nature is awakening and spring equinox is happening and people are only joining this celebration...no holiday could be more natural than Novruz...

Thus four weeks in advance of actual Novruz we celebrate Tuesdays of water, fire, wind and earth...then celebrate Novruz eve and Novruz day itself. People cook numerous Novruz deserts (March is period of vitamin deficiency thus Novruz pastries are all about butter, nuts, sugar and spices to keep people going (now...who can dispute wisdom of ancestors...)) Gogal, shekerbura and pakhlava are pastries that are found on every table, semeni (growing wheat) sign of Novruz and prosperity of coming year is also there. Everybody is visiting each other and there are many, many other traditions that I hope to mention next year :) But for this year I want to stop here, wish everyone happy spring and post some Novruz photos that I have been collecting to share with you :)

getting ready for festive dinner...spring ash (plov)...every season has its own plov in Sheki and each is delicious in its own way...

Novruz must haves: fried nuts and wheat...

Novruz must have: semeni - growing wheat, symbol of Novruz - sign of well-being;
that cake in a form of gazelle was quite popular in Sheki formerly, not the case nowadays but still very cute to have on the table...not easy to keep children off it though :)

Another symbol of Novruz, pastry called gogal (gogal means round, small bread) that also has spicy filling in this case, is perfect for breakfasts and not only...crispy and delicious...this photo I took on my mobile in my mom's kitchen...God bless her... My favourite pastry of Novruz, pakhlava, as you can see photo was taken after we tried pakhlava :)...mom couldn't convince us to wait until its properly cooled... Pastries of Novruz: shekerbura and pakhlava...
Novruz must-haves: nuts etc...
decorated semeni :)

Khojaly (Xocalı) massacre...25-26 February 1992...Azerbaijan...

...Another year has passed. Azerbaijanis are remembering victims of Khojali tragedy. More than 600 innocent people including old people, women and children killed...victims of cruelty, politics, aggression. The event became the largest massacre in the course of Dağlıq Qarabağ (Nagorno-Karabakh) conflict...

Where do people find all the anger to kill another human, a child...where do they find all the hatred...how do they order to proceed...how do they all live with all that responsibility on their shoulders...

May all victims rest in peace...

P.S. You can find my last year posts on Khojali tragedy here and here.

Novruz..."Su Çərşənbəsi"..."Water" Tuesday...

February is considered the toughest month in Baku in terms of weather. "Tough" implies a day or two of snow when many Bakuvians look out of their windows and take a deep sigh for all the

things they could potentially achieve if not the snow :). Sheki as it should be in mountainous areas is covered with snow for much longer and heavier during winter and usually nobody complains that much. Actually religious and older people in Sheki consider inappropriate complaining about the weather..."who are mere mortals to complain about the weather"...

Baku also has strong "khazri"s (north/cold wind coming from Caspian (Caspian is called Khazar in Azeri)) in February when its almost impossible to walk and wind finds its way anywhere no matter how well everywhere is closed and anybody is buttoned up...

Thus in all this wind and cold when February is still trying to show its character we have first Tuesday of Novruz called "water Tuesday". It's like first warble of birds that one can't really hear yet but wants to hear. It's like a sign of beautiful spring to come. Four weeks in advance of Novruz first Tuesday reminds us to start enjoying anticipation of a greener (but not burnt with sun) and warmer (but not unbearably hot) nature.

Here is what I wrote on "water" Tuesday last year, post that actually talks more about our spring holiday Novruz and how we celebrate awakening of nature, starting from water.

Qircana (Qirjana) river of Sheki
P.S. Let's not waste the water...

To blessed memory of Leyla khanum Akhundzada...

Last week art community (and not only) of Azerbaijan suffered big loss – Professor, art critic, supporter of many artists in Azerbaijan, curator of numerous exhibitions and projects, including "Aluminium", International Biennale of Contemporary Art, Baku Azerbaijan and Azerbaijan pavilion in Venice Art Biennale, promoter of modern art in Azerbaijan, Leyla khanum Akhundzada, tragically died in a road accident.

This gentle, full of charm and charisma khanum was the professional who was using every opportunity to grow and develop...not only personally but developing, guiding and creating opportunities for people - many artists around her...painters, sculptors, photographers and many more...anyone who had something special to say...show...create...

She was one of rare I would say personalities in Azerbaijan who was not complaining about things that still need to change and develop but saw and noticed, listened and heard, brought up and supported talents, turned ideas into projects, opportunities to realities, knew history, literature and art of her country and was not only the critic, artist, curator, mentor but true cultural ambassador of Azerbaijan. Such an untimely death...

The only thought that somewhat soothes the pain is that Leyla khanum was lucky to leave behind students, projects and ideas...Fortunately her friends and colleagues surrounded her with love, friendship and respect when she was around them...she knew that we all loved her...

Allah rəhmət eləsin...May she rest in peace...

"Beşik"...old-fashioned...no...vintage cot...

There is a saying in Azerbaijan “aşıq gördüyünü çalar” what translates as - “aşıq”, a musician that plays the instrument called “saz”, sings what he sees, meaning that people talk about what they see or what is “close” to them.

Thus I will continue the subject of children and motherhood and traditions in Azerbaijan :)

Today I will be talking about “beşik”, kind of swinging bed (cot) used for babies in Azerbaijan historically. How long ago? Well, I was a baby in late 1970s and we didn’t have “beşik” in our house in Baku but to bring up children in Sheki “beşik”s were still used then and earlier.

To use “beşik” mothers had to kind of fasten the baby to “beşik” for safety reasons and since babies were swaddled (as everyone believed that swaddling was the proper thing to do as babies wouldn’t wake themselves when moving their hands)…Today in era of democracy and liberalism people might consider “beşik” as the first try to bind and limit babies thus infringing their rights :)

“Beşik” has a kind of accessory where babies can pee and poop, what is very considerate and comfortable; women then had quite a lot to do in their households and diapers were not invented yet (don't ask me how the accessories looked/worked since it is a bit complicated to describe but everything was well thought through and working!) “Beşik”s are quite low and they were comfortable when women would sit on the floor and swing “beşik”s, as well as breastfeed the babies without unwinding them.

Nowadays “beşik”s are mainly kept as family relic and used very rarely (I am not sure about all the regions but I think this is the case for Sheki)…

It was not easy to find picture of “beşik” in internet, this is what I was able to find.

I must say that beautifully made “beşik”s are real pieces of art....and...history...

Greetings from Azerbaijan...

My dear readers,

Greetings from Baku, Azerbaijan…

After quite a lengthy pause I am happy to be back blogging. While I was away many important things took place. First of all we have all welcomed year 2010…New beginning, new hopes, new plans, new achievements, new joy. Let me use this opportunity and wish all of you Happy New Year!! May this year be healthy, peaceful and wealthy! :) …

Unfortunately life is not always about holidays and festive season. On 20th of January Azerbaijan remembered victims of Soviet Army massacre of 1990. My post of last year devoted to this date can be found here…

We have a saying in Azerbaijan “bir göz ağlayır, bir göz gülür” what translates as “one eye is crying, one eye is smiling” what means that good and bad are often side by side in life…While in sadness or grief happiness might knock on the door and vice-versa…

Between New Year holidays and 20th of January…on 16th of January…I became a mother for the second time. As you would imagine I am still very emotional about the “journey” that women make to become a mother. This joyful and happy occasion that is at the same time tiring and involves quite a bit of pain, I believe is one of the most if not the most amazing miracles of life… We were leaving the hospital on 20th of January, day of mourning in Azerbaijan. It was the day covered with sad memories, the day when people that had courage to say “no” to invasion and “yes” to independence as well as innocent victims were remembered...I was of course full of joy, happiness and gratitude that both the baby and I were going home in good health to begin new page in life of our family. There were also babies born on that day - babies that mean new life, future for Azerbaijan and not only. They are born no matter peace, wars or invasions and no matter what kind of wild apocalypses are predicted - and prove that life continues. We mothers hope and want to believe that they will grow to a better world and play their role in making the world safer, healthier, cleaner and kinder. Wishful thinking?? :)…well...it would be unnatural to hear something else from the woman who gave birth...13 days ago :)…

Be well…and "see" you soon :)

This photo is a courtesy of my relative in Sheki, Vusala Mustafazadeh, who displays her photos on http://mustafazadeh.wordpress.com/. Just wanted you to see how beautiful Sheki is in winter...as well...:)...

...Tar...Mugham...Azerbaijan...

The other day we were getting ready for my father’s birthday. I knew what to present him…we were going to present him a “tar”. The instrument that he used to play in his childhood…the instrument that would bring back his memories and would be his soul mate when he would be remembering his parents and friends that are not with him any longer…the instrument, love towards music of which he would try to instill in his grandchildren…

Tar is a five string musical instrument that one plays holding against chest…tar can be played solo and together with other instruments…tar is the instrument that any Azeri remembers when speaking about national music and or mugham. Mugham is one of unique forms of Eastern traditional music. To me mugam is music that is mostly understood or comprehended by elder people since for many young people it sounds as too serious or complex. Tar, mugham were not really promoted in Soviet times…generally speaking anything to do with national identity such as speaking Azeri, playing national instruments, enjoying traditional music was not considered “cool” for young people and very appropriate for those who tried to make a career for example. Therefore people like my teacher who was promoting Azeri, Ismikhan Rehimov (İsmixan Rəhimov) were exiled to Siberia and poets such as Mikayil Mushfiq (Mikayıl Müşfiq) that wrote patriotic poems (one of the most famous is his poem about “Tar”) were repressed (Mikayil Mushfiq was repressed/sentenced to death at the age of 31).

Nowadays when Azerbaijan is independent and is trying to find its way in XXI century, mugham is revealed from behind the scenes and enjoyed by all…It is another example that people can only repress people while they cant really repress music, art, something that is eternal; something that exists on its own and just waits for the right people to discover its treasures again and again…In 2003, UNESCO recognized mugham as a Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

Thus nowadays Azerbaijan has beautiful Mugham center in Baku and this year we had a wonderful International Mugham Festival. We have very many young people that seem to be capable and motivated to carry the traditions and skills to future generations with guidance of talented mentors and teachers that were able to preserve their skills and motivation…it is now personal free choice to play or not to play tar, to sing or not to sing mugham…to be a part of this culture or not to be…

Tar...picture that was available on internet...
Mugham center in Baku, Azerbaijan

Qurban Bayram...

Azerbaijan is celebrating Qurban Bayram...the holiday when every Muslim who can afford sacrifices/slaughters sheep (not only sheep but usually) to show his/her obedience to God and shares the meat with relatives and poor. The holiday when everyone is reminded once more about the importance of sharing and thinking for at least a little while about someone else too...

Here is what I found about this holiday in Wikipedia...

And here is what I wrote about the holiday last year...

Personally for me slaughtering sheep is not only showing obedience but also a way to thank God for life and everything else that comes with it...in moments of pessimism, bad mood, sad occasions its not easy to be positive and/or grateful but I hope and wish that we have plenty of joyful moments and always keep wisdom to stay grateful...they say everything happens for the better...even if we are not able to see/understand it right there...

Be well...and Happy Bayram :)...

Azerbaijan Takes Gold in European Team Chess Championship...

For any country and especially the one which is newly independent, relatively small and is in war/ceasefire situation more like a beaten party any victory means a lot. This is extra reason for recognition, another achievement, inspiration and motivation that is very necessary…

One of these victories for Azerbaijan is taking gold in European Team Chess Championship this Monday, November 2, 2009. The tournament attracted 38 Open and 28 Women’s teams from across Europe. I am citing the website http://chess.about.com/ which says that above mentioned tournament “much like the European Championships in football which are second only to the World Cup in international competition, is likely the second biggest team competition on the chess schedule after the Olympiad.”

I am happy to see that strong culture of chess playing in Azerbaijan survived hard 90s and is up again nowadays and that young people are motivated to play this serious game and represent their country. Well done and we hope for more victories :)

photo courtesy of http://www.eurons2009.com/eng.htm

P.S. My short post about Sheki children chess school here that I wrote back in 2007.

Traditions...hospitality..."What's ours is yours"...

While in Sheki I take photos and think of topics that I would talk about in my blog later...There are two things that I want to touch upon today...firstly about photos lower that I took in summer in Sheki...

As much as we try to convince our mom not to bother we know that she would still prepare pickles that we love so much during summer...and here we are...famous :) Sheki white cucumbers (that I wrote about earlier on my blog here) and lavish tufts of herbs and greens are bought and later pickles are ready...but who says that we wait for winter...we start enjoying them as soon as they are ready and mom always says "See, you didn't want me to bother...its the same story each year :)))..."

famous :) Sheki white cucumbers...
lavish tufts of herbs and greens...ready pickles...

Just as my mother many women in Azerbaijan especially in the regions still prepare their own pickles and do other home made food stuff during summer for their families to enjoy during winter...I wrote about this on my blog earlier here.

The second topic that I wanted to mention today is about the theme of my today's post...

When we visit Sheki for just couple of weeks in summer almost all the households and relatives we visit want to treat us with something, give presents, so that we, the guests, do not leave with empty hands as we say here...so they start thinking about what they can offer, what they can surprise us with, people who came from capital or elsewhere...they really think about it and get concerned...and...usually the solution is that they start treating the guests with their home made pickles and jams and give guests more to take back home and enjoy during winter...they give healthy stuff to children of the families telling parents how good one or the other fruit is etc etc. The idea is to share with guests what they have...there is a good saying in Russian "чем богаты, тем и рады" that web translated for me as "what's ours is yours" which is what I am trying to describe in this post...An example of touching and sincere gesture of sharing and hospitality.

Traditions...hospitality...

Excuses, excuses, excuses...I won't start counting mine for not writing for so long lately...

Today I want to write about traditions and a little bit about hospitality...

Tradition in Sheki requires :) whenever there are guests in the household housewife or anyone appropriate such as grown up girls in the house should arrange the shoes of visitors/guests in pairs...shoes should look "outside" so that it is easier for guests to put them on when they are leaving the house. As I can explain this tradition to myself this makes the entrance look tidier and additional comfort for guests is ensured (this is one of the pillars of hospitality in Azerbaijan - guests must be made as comfortable as possible. Personally I think that this started to work less in modern life, as people i.e. guests started to abuse concept of hospitality, but this is another subject :) Households are bigger in the regions including Sheki comparing to capital. Therefore when one has at least one family visiting, you would have numerous shoes at the entrance. Tradition also says that people should take off shoes when entering the house, since home is home and outside is outside. I agree with this for hygienic reasons and not only but again nowadays when one is dressed up and high heels are a part of this "ensemble", taking off shoes ruins this all :)) Not taking off shoes is more and more common for special events in Baku and sometimes in Sheki, but generally if you are just visiting then shoes are taken off and slippers are offered instead.

So...when I visit Sheki and see how carefully traditions like this are observed it gives me hope that they would be passed on to younger generations. Personally I like this very tradition and try to preserve it in our household...although again flexibility is a must :)

Below are photos of examples of "pairing the guests shoes concept" in practice :) in Sheki...

Sheki, Azerbaijan...

My dear readers, thank you very much for visiting my blog and also for leaving your comments.

I am just back from my trip to Sheki and in coming days and weeks I will try sharing with you my photos and thoughts. Before I start writing this post I want to tell that you could check out the archive of this blog if you are interested in more information and photos as I have been writing here since 2007...

For those of you who are new to this blog and don’t know or hear for the first time about Azerbaijan – Azerbaijan is the country that borders with Iran (765 km) and Turkey (15 km) in the south, Russia in the north (300 km), Georgia in the north-west (480 km) and Armenia in the west (1007 km). The territory also includes Nakhichevan Autonomous Republic and Azerbaijani sector of the Caspian Sea. Azerbaijan is in war/ceasefire situation with Armenia over its 20% of territory including Dağlıq Qarabağ (Nagorniy Karabakh) area.

With 86,600 square km of territory and around 8.6 million of population Azerbaijan is blessed with nine climate zones out of "available" eleven and rich natural resources including so “popular” nowadays oil and gas.

My parents originally come from town called Sheki in north-west of the country, city that historically was located on Silk Route, is famous for its cuisine and humour and is surrounded with beautiful and impressive mountains...Mountains that are there to stay no matter who comes and goes, which regime rules and what people do. Examples of grandness of nature they look very proud, beautiful and wise to me…whenever I visit Sheki I make sure to raise my eyes and smile at them and “acknowledge” their presence…thus in Sheki nature gave us the opportunity to look up at sky enjoying the mountains and in capital Baku to look far at horizon enjoying the Caspian Sea…

Today I am posting the photos of the same landscapes and the same mountains that I might have posted before hoping that you will also find these scenes beautiful and not tiring to enjoy again and again…

beautiful nature "hiding" human imperfection...

some mountains are "fluffy", some "shaggy" :) these ones are definitely "fluffy" :)...
view from my granddad's, now uncles' street...this is not technically perfect picture, but the mountains are so close and pretty that I am posting the photo as it is...sorry...

Season of watermelons or watermelon story :))

Experience says that best, meaning tasty and ecologically safe watermelons are usually available in Azerbaijan starting each August...but of course watermelons start to appear in June, July...Elder people wisely say that these must be either greenhouse watermelons or at least not sweet and juicy enough ones...but of course later they give up and here watermelon season is officially open...

Now I must say that in Azerbaijan (as most probably in many other places) watermelons are not bought in slices...but are bought as one (at least) whole watermelon...

Let me also mention here one Azeri phrase which is "əli boş"...which means "empty handed" and "əli dolu" which means "full handed"...these are notions that everyone inherits here genetically...thus anyone who visits someone else would usually take something in his/her hands...box of chocolates, some other sweets (the list can get creative depending if visited place has children, elder people, occasions etc etc)...So in summer one of the best options is...to get a watermelon and take it to the household you visit...the only risk is how delicious would be the watermelon...there are many tricks on choosing the watermelon, the one I know is to "knock" on the berry (yes, watermelon is a berry :) and the sound of good fruit would be sonorous (found this word in dictionary, meaning that it has to be a clear sound :). Many sellers would agree to cut the fruit so that you can check at least the colour but the real guru is the person who can choose without cutting and if the choice is good then the "chooser" is the star of the evening when the fruit is cut and shared among all and everyone is praising the choice and how sweet, refreshing and juicy and tasty the watermelon is :))

There is another tradition that I will try to explain, the circle around "tail" of the watermelon is demonstratively cut, then divided to four pieces, then everyone makes a wish and the pieces are thrown on the ground, depending on the combination that people thought of they would know if their wishes come true :) I am not sure about origin of this habit and maybe this is a confusing description but this is extra fun that is added to the session of cutting the watermelon and causes extra laughter and joy :)

I am almost over...but there is another thing that I must mention besides I have good pictures for that :) ... watermelon goes best with white cheese and also depending how hungry you are with thin bread made in "təndir", tandir bread (I hope you know about tandir, this requires a separate post :) This combination is very tasty, believe me :)

watermelons everywhere...

concept of "əli dolu" i.e. "full handed"

watermelon and cheese combination - almost a must on Azeri table...

ad which talks re above :) ...it says...watermelon and cheese...love story on your table :))

choice was good! :)