...Tar...Mugham...Azerbaijan...

The other day we were getting ready for my father’s birthday. I knew what to present him…we were going to present him a “tar”. The instrument that he used to play in his childhood…the instrument that would bring back his memories and would be his soul mate when he would be remembering his parents and friends that are not with him any longer…the instrument, love towards music of which he would try to instill in his grandchildren…

Tar is a five string musical instrument that one plays holding against chest…tar can be played solo and together with other instruments…tar is the instrument that any Azeri remembers when speaking about national music and or mugham. Mugham is one of unique forms of Eastern traditional music. To me mugam is music that is mostly understood or comprehended by elder people since for many young people it sounds as too serious or complex. Tar, mugham were not really promoted in Soviet times…generally speaking anything to do with national identity such as speaking Azeri, playing national instruments, enjoying traditional music was not considered “cool” for young people and very appropriate for those who tried to make a career for example. Therefore people like my teacher who was promoting Azeri, Ismikhan Rehimov (İsmixan Rəhimov) were exiled to Siberia and poets such as Mikayil Mushfiq (Mikayıl Müşfiq) that wrote patriotic poems (one of the most famous is his poem about “Tar”) were repressed (Mikayil Mushfiq was repressed/sentenced to death at the age of 31).

Nowadays when Azerbaijan is independent and is trying to find its way in XXI century, mugham is revealed from behind the scenes and enjoyed by all…It is another example that people can only repress people while they cant really repress music, art, something that is eternal; something that exists on its own and just waits for the right people to discover its treasures again and again…In 2003, UNESCO recognized mugham as a Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

Thus nowadays Azerbaijan has beautiful Mugham center in Baku and this year we had a wonderful International Mugham Festival. We have very many young people that seem to be capable and motivated to carry the traditions and skills to future generations with guidance of talented mentors and teachers that were able to preserve their skills and motivation…it is now personal free choice to play or not to play tar, to sing or not to sing mugham…to be a part of this culture or not to be…

Tar...picture that was available on internet...
Mugham center in Baku, Azerbaijan

Qurban Bayram...

Azerbaijan is celebrating Qurban Bayram...the holiday when every Muslim who can afford sacrifices/slaughters sheep (not only sheep but usually) to show his/her obedience to God and shares the meat with relatives and poor. The holiday when everyone is reminded once more about the importance of sharing and thinking for at least a little while about someone else too...

Here is what I found about this holiday in Wikipedia...

And here is what I wrote about the holiday last year...

Personally for me slaughtering sheep is not only showing obedience but also a way to thank God for life and everything else that comes with it...in moments of pessimism, bad mood, sad occasions its not easy to be positive and/or grateful but I hope and wish that we have plenty of joyful moments and always keep wisdom to stay grateful...they say everything happens for the better...even if we are not able to see/understand it right there...

Be well...and Happy Bayram :)...

Azerbaijan Takes Gold in European Team Chess Championship...

For any country and especially the one which is newly independent, relatively small and is in war/ceasefire situation more like a beaten party any victory means a lot. This is extra reason for recognition, another achievement, inspiration and motivation that is very necessary…

One of these victories for Azerbaijan is taking gold in European Team Chess Championship this Monday, November 2, 2009. The tournament attracted 38 Open and 28 Women’s teams from across Europe. I am citing the website http://chess.about.com/ which says that above mentioned tournament “much like the European Championships in football which are second only to the World Cup in international competition, is likely the second biggest team competition on the chess schedule after the Olympiad.”

I am happy to see that strong culture of chess playing in Azerbaijan survived hard 90s and is up again nowadays and that young people are motivated to play this serious game and represent their country. Well done and we hope for more victories :)

photo courtesy of http://www.eurons2009.com/eng.htm

P.S. My short post about Sheki children chess school here that I wrote back in 2007.

Traditions...hospitality..."What's ours is yours"...

While in Sheki I take photos and think of topics that I would talk about in my blog later...There are two things that I want to touch upon today...firstly about photos lower that I took in summer in Sheki...

As much as we try to convince our mom not to bother we know that she would still prepare pickles that we love so much during summer...and here we are...famous :) Sheki white cucumbers (that I wrote about earlier on my blog here) and lavish tufts of herbs and greens are bought and later pickles are ready...but who says that we wait for winter...we start enjoying them as soon as they are ready and mom always says "See, you didn't want me to bother...its the same story each year :)))..."

famous :) Sheki white cucumbers...
lavish tufts of herbs and greens...ready pickles...

Just as my mother many women in Azerbaijan especially in the regions still prepare their own pickles and do other home made food stuff during summer for their families to enjoy during winter...I wrote about this on my blog earlier here.

The second topic that I wanted to mention today is about the theme of my today's post...

When we visit Sheki for just couple of weeks in summer almost all the households and relatives we visit want to treat us with something, give presents, so that we, the guests, do not leave with empty hands as we say here...so they start thinking about what they can offer, what they can surprise us with, people who came from capital or elsewhere...they really think about it and get concerned...and...usually the solution is that they start treating the guests with their home made pickles and jams and give guests more to take back home and enjoy during winter...they give healthy stuff to children of the families telling parents how good one or the other fruit is etc etc. The idea is to share with guests what they have...there is a good saying in Russian "чем богаты, тем и рады" that web translated for me as "what's ours is yours" which is what I am trying to describe in this post...An example of touching and sincere gesture of sharing and hospitality.

Traditions...hospitality...

Excuses, excuses, excuses...I won't start counting mine for not writing for so long lately...

Today I want to write about traditions and a little bit about hospitality...

Tradition in Sheki requires :) whenever there are guests in the household housewife or anyone appropriate such as grown up girls in the house should arrange the shoes of visitors/guests in pairs...shoes should look "outside" so that it is easier for guests to put them on when they are leaving the house. As I can explain this tradition to myself this makes the entrance look tidier and additional comfort for guests is ensured (this is one of the pillars of hospitality in Azerbaijan - guests must be made as comfortable as possible. Personally I think that this started to work less in modern life, as people i.e. guests started to abuse concept of hospitality, but this is another subject :) Households are bigger in the regions including Sheki comparing to capital. Therefore when one has at least one family visiting, you would have numerous shoes at the entrance. Tradition also says that people should take off shoes when entering the house, since home is home and outside is outside. I agree with this for hygienic reasons and not only but again nowadays when one is dressed up and high heels are a part of this "ensemble", taking off shoes ruins this all :)) Not taking off shoes is more and more common for special events in Baku and sometimes in Sheki, but generally if you are just visiting then shoes are taken off and slippers are offered instead.

So...when I visit Sheki and see how carefully traditions like this are observed it gives me hope that they would be passed on to younger generations. Personally I like this very tradition and try to preserve it in our household...although again flexibility is a must :)

Below are photos of examples of "pairing the guests shoes concept" in practice :) in Sheki...

Sheki, Azerbaijan...

My dear readers, thank you very much for visiting my blog and also for leaving your comments.

I am just back from my trip to Sheki and in coming days and weeks I will try sharing with you my photos and thoughts. Before I start writing this post I want to tell that you could check out the archive of this blog if you are interested in more information and photos as I have been writing here since 2007...

For those of you who are new to this blog and don’t know or hear for the first time about Azerbaijan – Azerbaijan is the country that borders with Iran (765 km) and Turkey (15 km) in the south, Russia in the north (300 km), Georgia in the north-west (480 km) and Armenia in the west (1007 km). The territory also includes Nakhichevan Autonomous Republic and Azerbaijani sector of the Caspian Sea. Azerbaijan is in war/ceasefire situation with Armenia over its 20% of territory including Dağlıq Qarabağ (Nagorniy Karabakh) area.

With 86,600 square km of territory and around 8.6 million of population Azerbaijan is blessed with nine climate zones out of "available" eleven and rich natural resources including so “popular” nowadays oil and gas.

My parents originally come from town called Sheki in north-west of the country, city that historically was located on Silk Route, is famous for its cuisine and humour and is surrounded with beautiful and impressive mountains...Mountains that are there to stay no matter who comes and goes, which regime rules and what people do. Examples of grandness of nature they look very proud, beautiful and wise to me…whenever I visit Sheki I make sure to raise my eyes and smile at them and “acknowledge” their presence…thus in Sheki nature gave us the opportunity to look up at sky enjoying the mountains and in capital Baku to look far at horizon enjoying the Caspian Sea…

Today I am posting the photos of the same landscapes and the same mountains that I might have posted before hoping that you will also find these scenes beautiful and not tiring to enjoy again and again…

beautiful nature "hiding" human imperfection...

some mountains are "fluffy", some "shaggy" :) these ones are definitely "fluffy" :)...
view from my granddad's, now uncles' street...this is not technically perfect picture, but the mountains are so close and pretty that I am posting the photo as it is...sorry...

Season of watermelons or watermelon story :))

Experience says that best, meaning tasty and ecologically safe watermelons are usually available in Azerbaijan starting each August...but of course watermelons start to appear in June, July...Elder people wisely say that these must be either greenhouse watermelons or at least not sweet and juicy enough ones...but of course later they give up and here watermelon season is officially open...

Now I must say that in Azerbaijan (as most probably in many other places) watermelons are not bought in slices...but are bought as one (at least) whole watermelon...

Let me also mention here one Azeri phrase which is "əli boş"...which means "empty handed" and "əli dolu" which means "full handed"...these are notions that everyone inherits here genetically...thus anyone who visits someone else would usually take something in his/her hands...box of chocolates, some other sweets (the list can get creative depending if visited place has children, elder people, occasions etc etc)...So in summer one of the best options is...to get a watermelon and take it to the household you visit...the only risk is how delicious would be the watermelon...there are many tricks on choosing the watermelon, the one I know is to "knock" on the berry (yes, watermelon is a berry :) and the sound of good fruit would be sonorous (found this word in dictionary, meaning that it has to be a clear sound :). Many sellers would agree to cut the fruit so that you can check at least the colour but the real guru is the person who can choose without cutting and if the choice is good then the "chooser" is the star of the evening when the fruit is cut and shared among all and everyone is praising the choice and how sweet, refreshing and juicy and tasty the watermelon is :))

There is another tradition that I will try to explain, the circle around "tail" of the watermelon is demonstratively cut, then divided to four pieces, then everyone makes a wish and the pieces are thrown on the ground, depending on the combination that people thought of they would know if their wishes come true :) I am not sure about origin of this habit and maybe this is a confusing description but this is extra fun that is added to the session of cutting the watermelon and causes extra laughter and joy :)

I am almost over...but there is another thing that I must mention besides I have good pictures for that :) ... watermelon goes best with white cheese and also depending how hungry you are with thin bread made in "təndir", tandir bread (I hope you know about tandir, this requires a separate post :) This combination is very tasty, believe me :)

watermelons everywhere...

concept of "əli dolu" i.e. "full handed"

watermelon and cheese combination - almost a must on Azeri table...

ad which talks re above :) ...it says...watermelon and cheese...love story on your table :))

choice was good! :)

Baku boulevard...100 years old now...

Today I will be writing about Baku Boulevard.

A little bit of history (information taken from http://deyerler.org/ and http://www.azadliq.org/): Baku boulevard’s foundation was laid in 1909 when Mohammad Hasan Hajinski made a speech in Baku Duma (equivalent of Parliament) and suggested to create boulevard for leisure times of Bakuvians…This is when decision was made to start the works and here we are in 2009 celebrating 100 years of our Baku boulevard…

Since 2008 boulevard started to gain a new appearance: pavements became smoother, lawns greener, cafes prettier, fountains bigger and more sophisticated and overall the whole boulevard cleaner. Personally I enjoy this total transformation very much and hope that there will be constancy and continuity in cleanliness and good service. In hot summer days boulevard is very crowded…but then…unless people have other places to have long walks and enjoy sea breeze this is very natural…Works are now continuing, a lot still needs to be done and they say that length of the boulevard will also be extended to 25 km from existing 3 km 750 m…so this should help…

Although it is very popular nowadays to be unhappy with any changes or reconstruction and there are always opinions and rumours how something could have been much better and how less money could have been spent etc etc…personally I am happy to see cleaner, greener and prettier boulevard and hope that it will be even better. There also needs to happen a major transformation in people’s minds to realise that this is actually their city and to keep it clean and pretty is also their duty…I am afraid this will take some time though and would require penalties :)

sorry for so many photos just trying to convey the atmosphere...:)

everything starts with an idea - Mohammad Hasan Hajinski came up with the idea of Baku boulevard...May he rest in peace!...

old boulevard...

new boulevard:

new cafes...

reconstruction is continuing...

the same Caspian better seaside :)

new fountains...

new pavement...

new attractions...

Michael Jackson...-...person of the Universe...

I wanted to write about Michael Jackson…it is strange how people say so many good things after the person passes away…it is the same everywhere…well good things are said not about everyone after death…but…I mean that why don’t we praise when people are still alive and can actually hear and enjoy the praise…Michael most probably never lacked love of his fans, he must have felt that love during all his life…life that seemed quite interesting and different…I don’t think anybody knows exactly what was happening in his heart and mind…and I hope that with all his talent he was a happy person at the end of the day.

I assume that Michael maybe never knew about this part of the world and for example about Azerbaijan but there are many fans here who love and know his songs and moves and are his fans and have sympathy (to say the least) towards his talent.

One of the greatest achievements for one’s life must be ability, talent to create/cause sympathy, respect, love, positive energy and adoration in people’s, in strangers’ hearts with your talent, your genius, your way of life…no matter where those other people live, which language they speak etc etc…Michael achieved that in his own way…May he rest in peace…

I have taken below photos from Internet...

They say Michael was never happy enough with his appearance...his fans most probably would had loved him anyway he looked...but the main thing I suppose is if the person is happy personally...within...

This is how Michael wanted us to see and know him..apparently...

June in Sheki...

My dear readers, I am very happy to be back...thank you for sending me your notes asking if I was ok and the reason why I was not blogging...thank you very much for your support! I appreciate it very much! Everything is great, thank you! and here I am

I was planning to write this post in June but I am writing it only now...this is what I wanted to write at that time...

June is the month when many students are going back to Sheki for their summer holidays or grandchildren go to spend their summer with grannies and grandpas. Month when parents and grandparents are anticipating their favourite children and grandchildren to come back home planning to cook children's favourite dishes...to them no matter how old children get they are still someone to take care of...I must say that culture in Azerbaijan still continues to be such that parents take care of their children and then continue to take care of their grandchildren till the end of their lives ...this care never finishes...young people of course often complain that they need more freedom but all of them definitely enjoy delicious dishes and extreme care...this "giving" nature is something that I am afraid is less common and popular nowadays especially among younger generations...nevertheless...currently my kid is with my parents in Sheki...who took him there knowing that their vacation would turn into an active and at times very tiring way of spending their free time...but they do it and do it with pure love and self-sacrifice...Different books say that children that are taken care by grannies are more spoiled but happier since there is tremendous love around them. Well, at the end of the day I think grannies definitely believe that as The Beatles sang "All you need is love"...:)

Today I am posting a photo that dates back to late 50s or early 60s of last century I am not sure...Photo is taken in Sheki with my grand-grand mother and her grandchildren (not all of them are there I think). Granny Mina had very hard times and years during her life but her children and grandchildren were her highest reward...

Sorry for the quality of photo but I thought I would share it with you as to me it is very warming and conveys the family tradition that I am touching upon in this post...be well :)

28th of May - Republic Day in Azerbaijan

28th of May is celebrated as Republic Day in Azerbaijan, the day when Democratic Republic of Azerbaijan was declared, Act of Independence of Azerbaijan was adopted...in 1918...first Democratic Republic in the Orient...Republic lasted then for 23 months only...Soviet Army rushed in and following 70 years or so were spent "under" supervision of "big brother"...

The second time Republic was declared in 1991. Years that are left behind were not easy. Doubtful socialism was replaced by hasty capitalism...people were "lost in transition", beliefs were shaken...other "well-wishers" jumped in....borders opened...anything that reminded of any structure was not working and had to be build up again...generations that lived most of their life times in Soviet Union found it very hard to adapt...

Today is 28th of May of year 2009. People always have objective and subjective reasons to prefer the past or present times...what can I say? I never had a big brother per se...I had people around me that could give advice and show the way but I was free to make my own decisions, choices, mistakes and little victories. I prefer to take my own responsibility and be free. I guess the same applies to my country. Azerbaijan has rich history, natural and human resources and potential...the land that it is located on as any other land does not need much but only to be taken care of...people that live here want to make their own choices, travel, study, work, have families and enjoy life, peaceful life...they hope not to become victims of politics and wars...

It is a beautiful early summer evening in Baku...I had a nice walk in the city...Baku wind was cool and refreshing...city was not very crowded as it is a holiday...everything was very peaceful...I was thinking about my little post...people that were/are struggling to create a democratic and free Republic were/are most probably trying to create something similar...that people just like I could safely wander in the city, have tea in cafes, have freedom to study and work, make their little and big choices...and be themselves with pride and honor...I was passing by a flagpole, I looked up at the flag and it felt nice as always...I hope our colorful flag (blue stands for "Turkic", red for "modern, progressive", green for "Islam") always waves proudly and freely...in blue skies of Azerbaijan Republic…

May in Sheki, Azerbaijan...

Weather in Azerbaijan starts getting really nice in May…anyone who has the opportunity travels to the regions to enjoy refreshing weather, bright colors and nature overall…

My family and friends also managed to escape to Sheki and brought me some pictures that I want to share with you…

May is a season of poppies…Fields of these gentle flowers are everywhere…it is preferable not to gather these flowers since they “die” very quickly as soon they are gathered…they are meant to be watched/observed/enjoyed/adored with no interference…

Last day of April this year was very tragic for Azerbaijan…then as it always happens life went one, spring brought back hopes and optimism. 9th of May (Victory Day in Azerbaijan) reminded victory over fascism, of those who sacrificed their lives for future of their countries and children hoping that future generations will be wiser not to make wars but enjoy life…

Gift that we received during this May is 3rd place that Azerbaijan got in Eurovision contest. Imagine what kind of euphoria it brought to this relatively newly independent country. Yes, we know that Eurovision is not only about music but still it felt great that countries did vote for our song…Big thanks to all supporters of our song "Always" performed by Aysel and Arash...!!! and enjoy the photos :)

beautiful Sheki...beautiful Azerbaijan...
don't interfere...nature took care of it all...
fields of poppies...to adore...nothing else...

Last day of April 2009 in Azerbaijan...

Sometimes we think that certain things can never happen to us or that on a beautiful spring weather only good things can take place...wrong assumption...terrorism can happen towards anyone and terrors may take place on any day...

Unfortunately 30 April 2009 in memories of many families in Azerbaijan will stay as the day when their children went to university and never returned home. Today gunman shot to death at least 13 people in Oil Academy of Azerbaijan in Baku and many are heavily wounded. We don't know the reasons yet...and no reason will return those innocent victims (Allah rəhmət eləsin - Peace be with all victims).

I think any parent and not only would share this grief...how come some children grow into monsters? why there were/are people "thank" to whom there are words like terrorist, sadist and maniac?...why would someone go and kill everyone he meets in the corridor?...for money? revenge? due to mental sickness (when the person does not do anything to himself but to others for some reason)...why there is so much hatred in some people towards other people?...

Today I am not posting any photos...enough elaborating on hatred and violence...it looks like it has never been and it is still not enough just to wish for peace...countries and people are fighting for their safety and peace...I hope as civilians we could help the planet at least by "spreading" love and by bringing up happy and loving children...I am writing this and I am not sure if only this is enough...I am not sure...tragedies like today make one doubt everything...

Be well...

Unknown Azerbaijan...First female opera composer in the Orient - Shafiga Akhundova...

I was brought up in a family where praising yourself was considered as impolite and inappropriate…one of the most common things that I remember is my father saying “one should not praise herself in front of the others, let others do it…” the same applied to praising once children before others etc…I call it humbleness and modesty that hopefully will be still existent in lets say XXII century...currently they are under big "pressure"...

Years passed…I grew up…saw other people…started analysing…now I can draw almost a clear line between what my dad used to say and what my country was doing…never phrasing its children in front of others and waiting for/expecting others to do it…and that does not happen very often…

Lately thankfully Azerbaijan started working on its PR and if I may say “marketing” but we are very behind and historically have missed the opportunity of creating THE image of Azerbaijan…left it to others to do???

To prove the above I have a rhetoric question: how many people around the world know that first (!) female (!) opera composer (!) in the Orient is lady named Shafiga Akhundova who is actually Azerbaijani and who is actually from Sheki...

Ms Shafiga Akhundova was born in 1924 in Sheki. She graduated from Baku Musical School and Azerbaijan State Conservatory. In 1972 (!) she composed opera "Maiden Rock" thus becoming the first woman to create opera in the East. Shafiga xanum is the author of wonderful songs "Leyla", "Happy Land", operetta "Our home, our secret" (1965), pieces for string quartet, dramatic plays "Aydin", "Farewell to India!" "What do you live for?" etc and music to children's plays such as "A tale of a clown", "Birthday of a rabbit", etc.

One might argue who cares about who knows/who doesn’t...but if we recall Maslow's hierarchy of needs then I guess everyone cares...

Today’s post is devoted to Shafiga xanum who turned 85 in 2009, to her amazing talent and to her contribution to not only Azeri culture but if I may say to world-wide one...

below photo was taken around two years ago in Sheki when my father-in-law, Aslan Rustamov (another gifted Shekili), went over to visit Shafiga xanum in her summer house...

Childhood - spring of ones lifetime...

Last three years or so Novruz is celebrated during quite a long time in Azerbaijan…around a week. Working mothers like I have a chance to spend more time with their little ones (what sometimes might seem more tiring than working:), to make amazing, funny and sweet discoveries…There is a saying in Azerbaijan “Uşaq olan evdə qeybət olmaz” what means “there is no gossip in homes where there are children”…it implies that children keep everyone so busy that women do not find time for gossiping (hopefully :)

Childhood is definitely spring of ones life time. Like spring...by the time you realize, notice and appreciate it, childhood is gone…the same thought comes to me when I observe the child, time flies and babies change so quickly…everyday they do something new and here the next day yesterday's something new is gone...spring in Baku is also very short...every day a new flower, another green tree and one wonders - when did all this happen...where was I looking...and then one day it is already summer...

In Russian they say “погода шепчет…” meaning weather is whispering me…I can not convey how beautiful the weather was for a couple of days this week in Baku, nature was definitely whispering beautiful songs of blue sky, warming sun, gentle breeze, bird songs and children laughter…song of awakening nature...spring…it was whispering “take a moment, notice me…”

Below I am posting photos that I believe will better explain what I mean above...these photos are taken by people who do notice spring :) These are my niece, Fatma Giyasova, who not only enjoyed but also took photos precisely for my blog while in Sheki during Novruz (let me thank you in public, Fatma) and Fakhriyya Mammadova whose eyes catch miracles easily and thankfully she shares her photos with us...

Shortly these buds will open up, tree will blossom, bear fruits...this will happen very quickly...do you know what I mean?...courtesy of Fakhriyya...
Bees are getting excited :) ...courtesy of Fakhriyya...

Springs in Absheron peninsular (where Baku is located) are so short...courtesy of Fakhriyya

This isn't snow...this is apricot tree in blossom..isn't this amazing...courtesy of Fatma...

Apricot tree blossoms...closer view...courtesy of Fatma

Its the way you make me feel...

One of main purposes of my blog is raising awareness about Azerbaijan…

Therefore as you would imagine when I get emails as below and as this one I am happy to see that the blog serves its purpose…

I also appreciate very much that people take their time and actually leave comments and send me feedback. It “fuels” my energy and makes me feel good what hopefully results in better stories and pictures :) Thank you! :)

_________________________________________________________

Hi Ayten

Recently I started a writing group here in the Blue Mountains west of Sydney, Australia. One of our projects was to find a country we’ve never been to, and make up a character who lives there! Fun, eh? I chose, just because I love the word, Azerbaijan. My character lives in Baku. I can’t tell you how useful your blog has been to me, it gives me an up-close-and-personal view of how daily life is lived in your town. I’ve read some of the tragic history too, which you would all have simmering away in your consciousness; but it’s lovely to see how celebratory your attitude is to everything. I think Azerbaijanis must be tough and resilient.

Thanks again

Alison Jones

Novruz holiday is knocking the door..."earth" Tuesday evening...

Today is last Tuesday evening when signs of nature are noted or celebrated as part of Novruz holiday.

Unfortunately last Tuesday I wasn’t able to write about wind Tuesday…I was thinking to write that they say that Baku means city of winds and this wind makes sometimes hot and humid summers a bit bearable but also makes winters much colder than thermometers show...They say that in the past, when the area of Baku was empty and there were less constructions to break the wind, people could actually stand on the wind…so strong it used to be…nowadays wind can get quite strong too…cold wind that comes from Caspian is called khazri (xəzri in Azeri, Khazar (Xəzər) is how Caspian Sea is called in Azeri) and warm wind is called gilavar. How poetic is this…

This Tuesday is evening of earth sign of nature…I guess the most important sign. I say the most important cause it was the first and main reason why people started to fight with each other…Earth said: “I will feed you and amaze you, all you need is to take care of me, love me and enjoy…but people thought that more they have of it better and started wars to occupy as much of it as possible in the meantime forgetting what they needed the earth for in the first place…”

Nowadays when traveling and moving around are usual state of living for many people, when quite often under asphalt and among skyscrapers one can’t even see the earth, belonging to some place is not even relevant. I remember my grandma who had to move to Baku since her health wasn’t allowing her to stay alone in Sheki. She was not able to hide that she hated buildings and asphalt of the city, she wanted back to her land where she could take deep breath and feel the earth…of course she wasn’t describing it that way, she simply wanted home…and we took her home so that she could spend her last spring there, feeling the earth under her feet…(last Tuesday evening of Novruz is the day to remember all who are not with us any more...)

This Tuesday evening is considered as the most festive…with candles on the table, dishes cooked and sweets prepared people are celebrating the awakening of earth…spring is coming and rejuvenating nature will bring hopes and love or hopes for love to everyone…

It is not easy to grasp all merits and not only of civilization and continue to remember and appreciate what is really important…Novruz helps us to do it.

Be well :)

click on picture to see it big and beautiful :)

Happy 8th of March!!! Post devoted to silent heroes (no actually heroines)...

Today is 8th of March, not just another calendar year, but also the day celebrated by some countries as Women's Day.

My post today is not devoted to emancipated, somewhat feminist women but to self-sacrificing, low profile, hard working women that mainly devote themselves to men and upbringing of their children then grand children and other family members...Above photo was taken sometime in 1940es in Sheki...all those women were/are mainly mothers, sisters and wives and after women if I may say so. They were/are mainly engaged in house chores and family duties and many of them did not even think (or maybe they did but never showed) that they should complain etc.

I remember my grandmother (also pictured above) who was ready to take care of us members of her family, days and days and do everything to please us, prepare something tasty and create comfort. When we went to Sheki in winter and weather was cold she was the one to prepare warm water and breakfast so that we wake up to beautiful smells and warm kitchen. Although she was the oldest she seemed to be the most energetic and proactive...I am thinking now that her energy must have been coming from her love and kindness to her family.

Another thought that comes to me is that those women were shy to come to the city as their heads were mainly covered and they did not think that they were as beautifully dressed or as "good" as urban women. It happens nowadays too and I always want to protect them and convince that it does not matter what they are dressed in, their inner beauty, kindness and giving nature means much more than polished nails or ostentatious looks...

They say woman stands for wisdom. The woman that you see in the centre of above picture (my great-grandmother) and many other women alike her were the core of the families and they "radiated" wisdom, kindness and love and wisely directed their families including men in a subtle or if necessary powerful way.

Slogan :) of my today's post is "let there always be women and let there always be wisdom" :)

Chocolates, flowers and perfume...

I think chocolate, flowers and perfume are the most popular products couple of days before and on 8th of March not only in Azerbaijan but everywhere where Women's Day is celebrated.

We are having beautiful weather in Baku which is singing beauty and love songs to all who want to hear :) Women look even more gorgeous as they feel and anticipate even more attention. Small or big gifts and flowers, chocolates and smiles are everywhere...:)

There are also always those who prejudice the purpose and date of the holiday etc etc...my personal opinion is that why to doubt? Isn't it better to have another occasion to celebrate life? ;) Women's day is on 8th of March but since this day happens to be Sunday this year, business women were congratulated on Friday and celebrations continue now :) I am not sure about other countries but we Azeris do not mind having long celebrations...I say its because we are southern country...maybe that is the reason we love music, dancing and women :)

Be well :)

P.S. attached photo is not mine but downloaded from internet...

Novruz holiday is knocking the door..."fire" Tuesday..."Od Çərşənbəsi"...

This Tuesday is the eve of "Od Çərşənbəsi" meaning "Fire Tuesday/Wednesday". The thing is that although it is called "Od Çərşənbəsi" we celebrate the eve not çərşənbə i.e. not Wednesday...anyway these are just technicalities :)

Fire...those who know the history of Zoroastrianism and know a bit about Azerbaijan might have heard that there is a zoroastrian pilgrimage in suburbs of Baku and that fire is somewhat sacred in this "odlar yurdu" i.e. land of fire i.e. Azerbaijan...this territory historically hid reserves of oil and gas that caused flames of fire and this was of course interpreted as blessing by superstitious people and capital by practical people...

Fire is another sign of nature that is celebrated during Novruz. Fire means warmth and comfort...I hope there is more warmth and comfort in our homes and hearts than anything else...

Unknown Azerbaijan...Khojaly (Xocalı) massacre...25-26 February 1992...

It must have been different historically but ever since Black January in 1990 carnations in Azerbaijan are only associated with grief and mourning...this graceful flowers "bend their heads" as it is said in one of Azeri songs as if apologising for human violence and trying to heal the "wounds" of those whose memory, heart and soul are in pain...

Once something is done that is it...it happened...what can be done after...words said, speeches made - but thats just noise...monuments erected, flowers put, events held - but thats just vanity...

I hope that Khojali massacre was the last violance to happen in the territories of Azerbaijan...words said and things done post factum just do not help...there is Azeri saying that says "hər şeyə əlac var ölümdən başqa"..."there is a cure to everything except death"...hopefully people of XXI century will be able if not to stop but at least decrease violance resulting in murders and terrorism not only in Azerbaijan but everywhere on this planet...may sound naive...but everything starts with a dream...

Unknown Azerbaijan...Khojaly (Xocalı) massacre...25-26 February 1992...

Khojali (Xocalı) massacre happened in 1992 when I was 16...I remember shock of ordinary people in Baku about how cruel people could be and how close, geographically, that cruelty was to Baku (although it would be enough to remember Black January of 1990)...

Khojali is/was a small town in Daglig Garabag (Nagorno Karabag) area of Azerbaijan that is currently occupied. This small little known town surrounded by mountains became an obstacle on occupant army's way and without thinking twice the army decided to "walk over" the population of the village thus clearing the obstacle i.e. village...I assume "strategy" was also to show to enemy i.e. Azerbaijan how determined the occupant can be etc etc...

Some people that survived came to Baku...That year my father and his team were helping out with food to 27 families that found refuge in one of the hostels in Baku...Dad was not talking about this with us children but I remember him coming home gloomy and tired after another visit to hostel and talking with mom in the kitchen...about destroyed lives, children that are left without parents, horror stories that he was hearing from people that made it...

17 years have passed...those children must have grown up by now...those kind of children/people exist in every war zone, people that have to pay the price with their lives, with lives of their children...people that become toys in hands of politicians and/or people full of endless hatred...

Each year on February 25 and 26 Azerbaijani people remember the victims and hostilities that took place in Khojali. Allah rəhmət eləsin...May they rest in peace…

Novruz holiday is knocking the door..."water" Tuesday..."Su Çərşənbəsi"...

When I think about four elements of nature the first thing I recall is The Fifth Element movie. If you have watched it at the end of that movie heroes need to "break" mystery and those were four elements of nature etc etc...

Anyway...today...is first Tuesday when we "acknowledge" approach of Novruz in Azerbaijan and this Tuesday is "water" Tuesday as we call it here. May sound confusing...Please read my earlier post on Novruz here so that you have some info on our tradition to celebrate beginning of spring...before we celebrate actual Novruz we start four or so weeks earlier by celebrating each element of nature every Tuesday...i.e. we may start thinking about sweets that need to be prepared for holidays, make fire or just start getting cheerful :) It is believed that in nature water is renewed first of all and then everything else...If you are in Azerbaijan and say spill water by accident don't get surprised if you hear people saying to you "su aydınlıqdır" meaning that water is purity and you shouldn't worry...or if many people want to drink water we say "yol böyüyün, su kiçiyindir" meaning that oldest people should be let to walk in/out first but water firstly is served to youngest (sorry for this hasty and awkward translation...) not sure if these beliefs have anything to do with Novruz but just so that you know :) Su çərşənbəniz mübarək! Happy Water Tuesday! :)

Unknown Azerbaijan...Turkmenchay treaty...10 February 1828...

Turkmenchay treaty has been signed as a result of 2nd Russia-Iran war between Russia and Iran in Turkmenchay village on 10 February 1828. Signing ceremony was attended by famous Russian writer A.S.Griboyedov and Azerbaijan's progressive figure A.A.Bakikhanov, who was interpreting at the signing ceremony. Initial treaty on dividing Azerbaijan between Russia and Iran was signed in 1813 and is called Gulustan treaty. (info taken from Wikipedia in Azeri)

As it is more or less obvious by now this was the only way to exist for small and rich Azerbaijan...its territory was divided into khanlıqs (territories ruled by Khans) and each khan preferred to be on its own, pseudo-independent, rather than unite with any other local khan...neighbours were big and strong...and Azerbaijan with Caspian Sea shore, no general goal and strategy, rich natural resources...no army.

Currently in ex Soviet Republic, Azerbaijan, reside around 8 million 700 people...I am not sure about number of Azerbaijanis in Iran, some data say around 20 million.

Movie review: Slumdog Millionaire

Every time I visit London I make sure I go to movies. Back at home we still have only one up to date cinema with London priced tickets and Russian dubbed movies…Lately I don’t even mind going to a movie alone, something that would seem weird to me before due to prejudices of youth…not any more. All I need is a movie and maybe a coke. Is this considered an advertisement? Well, don’t drink it. Its bad for your health. Does it balance now? :) Of course when possible I prefer going especially to romantic movies with my spouse who actually prefers fantasy and doesn’t like “girlie” movies at all but does not want me to go to cinema alone and would prefer coming along and “suffering” through the whole movie…Something to do with Azeri mentality that I don’t mind in this case actually :)

During my last trip I watched “Changeling” that left me paranoid and depressed for quite a while therefore this time it had to be something positive. I knew that I wanted to see “Slumdog Millionaire”. So I did…
Those who know me and saw the movie might have already guessed that I have wept the whole movie. It made me laugh too but mostly stroke again with discoveries about human cruelty and again cruelty, arrogance, ignorance and love, love, love :)

I have a dilemma. How do I bring up a child teaching him to trust and love people and at the same time not to believe to all he meets, sees and hears…

The movie is about real horrors that we know that exist but we don’t want to face/think/notice…one of the reasons being that we cant really change much about many things in life and prefer to be isolated in our own comfort zone…nowadays even sometimes getting extreme in this isolation…The movie proved once more Madagascar's King Julien's saying that some or many people think that “nothing personal but they are better than others” and what wise mentor tortoise from Kung Fu Panda used to say that “accidents are not accidental”…Actually destiny or as we call it here “qismət” is quite strong in traditions, culture and beliefs in Azerbaijan. Therefore main character’s often said “its destiny” is very understandable to me.

Older generations in Azerbaijan as anywhere else in former USSR grew with Indian movies. I wonder if this played some role in their maturing to kind and loving people. Indian movies always have a good ending, at least they used to, evil never wins, however it tries and happiness and love are constant winners. Another thing so comfortable about Indian movies is that they do not have intimate scenes which makes life of any Azeri family easier as usually men and women, brothers and sisters or different generations watch movies together and are able to watch the movie uninterruptedly without switching the channels for a while with guessed timing to go back to watching the movie or girls suddenly going to bring tea or starting to talk to each other etc – all these awkward things happening during intimate scenes of other movies, since mentality and tradition still do not “allow” watching all this collectively…

I wonder if we in my country would be once as brave and confident as those who shot “Slumdog Millionaire” to expose the issues of our country. I am not sure if we can afford it currently though. My wishful thinking hopes that maybe by the time we would afford it we won’t have those issues any longer…

Any Indian movie has dance in its script, many dances. It was great to see that movie makers did not compromise on this tradition and had it even so at the end of the movie when the story was over. I envied movie makers chance to capture so many issues in one movie speaking to the whole world at once. Bravo.

The movie brought big picture back to me, distancing me from annoying little nuisances of life reminding to be grateful, positive and loving no matter what I see or what I hear.

P.S. Edited and shortened version of the article here.

P.P.S. Today (22.02.2009) Slumdog Millionaire got an Oscar. Bravo!! Well deserved!! Congratulations to everyone in the team!! :)

Hippodrome...Bine, Azerbaijan

I am not sure about the regions but we have two hippodromes in Baku, one in the city and one in one of Baku villages, called, Bine (Binə). Although I am not personally into horse riding it is great to know that this is something available and quite affordable in Azerbaijan...Albeit it took me years to actually go and visit Bine hippodrome I am happy that I did go at the end and saw those graceful and truly beautiful horses. For those especially children who are at ease with horses experience is truly peaceful and full of harmony...something that I enjoy observing a lot.

Love is in the air...what can be better for children...

Getting to know the horse...

Thankfully horses have lots of space...