Travelling to Khinalig...

Did it ever happen to you that you keep thinking about travelling somewhere and it just doesn't happen? It seems to you that you hear all the time about more people visiting the place but you don't go beyond planning...between my wanting to go to Khinalig and actual impromptu trip I graduated, got married and actually took with me there my almost five year son! Anyway enough about me...

Very first post on this blog talked about the road to Sheki...now road to Khinalig...

More than just pretty nature escorts you all the way...at some places it also boasts how grand and almighty it is...then when you think that you are almost there you find yourself in lowland but lowland on the mountains and you feel like there can't be a further place where people live as there are no villages on your way only nature very high up...then you pass a village and in astonishment you realize that its still not Khinalig you go further and here...I won't be exaggerating if I said that somewhere among the clouds you find village you have been trying to reach...Khinalig (2350 meter high from sea level)...I still haven't educated myself enough....as on how did these people that do not speak Azeri but language of their own (and not any language of ethnic minority but their own language) ended up so far from everyone else just on their own and so high up!!! With no proper road up until couple of years ago...and that's one of the first places to welcome snow...amazing...Road to Khinalig is very picturesque thus devoting this post exclusively to it...

No matter how many pictures I took it seemed to me that beauty still won't be conveyed...even though colours were the ones of winter...autumns and springs must be amazing...yes, must see...

31 December - New Year Holiday and Day of Solidarity of Azerbaijanis around the world...

Another year is gone and here we have already greeted new year 2011...Wishes do not change from year to year...they stay the same...no matter what year we greet...no matter who, what and where we are...we ask for the same...good health, peace, love, prosperity, happiness, joy...Happy New Year!!!

On 31 December Azerbaijanis also celebrate Day of Solidarity of Azerbaijanis around the world...solidarity is something very simple and very complex...simply talking it is respecting each other by default and greeting with "salam"...and I am not going into complex things today...will keep it simple :) Happy Day of Solidarity!!!

I am posting today two photos that touch my heart very much...my comments to the photos will explain why I am posting them but not other more obvious pictures for New Year and Day of Solidarity!!! Best wishes from Baku!!! Best wishes from Azerbaijan!!!

Azerbaijan is widely known as land of fire...gas, oil, east, south - this list can grow and each word would add some light into "why"s of this country...Picture of "təndir", tandoor. Another symbol, another traditional wealth. When "modern" life came, many households in Azerbaijan rushed to destroy their tandoors...tandoors occupied space and baking bread was quite complicated in this hot and "dangerously looking" by modern standards kind of ovens...and guess what...in a while it was obvious that numerous kinds of breads in endless supermarkets had neither taste or smell of granny's bread...people found themselves asking in restaurants with hope and nostalgia if they had traditional tandoor bread...thus tandoors are back...and actually one can find one in the very centre of Baku in its Old City...for New Year and Day of Solidarity I wish to all of us to have wisdom to be able to keep the balance between new and old, modern and traditional, to appreciate, cherish and respect the past and take it forward to the future...

Below picture inspires me to wish to all for us for New Year and Day of Solidarity to enjoy what we do and respect what others do - no matter what occupation; smile more often and try to keep that smile for longer...and yes...smelling bread would add you extra pleasure...believe me! :)

Last but not least...bread is symbol of prosperity and well-being in Azerbaijan: not to be left on the table if not eaten, if dropped respectfully taken from the floor, never put together with other waste but always separately...(belief says that no respect to bread, no prosperity in households...)...Have a prosperous New Year! :)

photos courtesy of stringer Tagi Jafarov...grateful for his friendship and work...

this is what I wrote about this day in 2008...

Children and peace...

Last couple of days I have been thinking that there is not much left until year end…everyday routine catches us…and here…days fly away...another year will be gone soon…

Today I want to mention peace…and children...in my post…

Children are future of this planet…it is proven by now that happier childhood means happier adulthood…and happier people mean happier planet…I hope next year brings lots of joy, happiness, laughter and smiles to all children around the world…I hope we adults remember to do our best so that it is the case...its festive season now and hopefully every child will get something as a present…maybe we all can play a role and present something not only to our own children but also to another child in need…I took below pictures in another miraculous place of Azerbaijan in Xinaliq this November…it must be very cold there now…but I hope very much and I am actually sure that these kids we met are happy enjoying warmth of their mothers and households…God bless each and every…

Below picture is not a very good one…but my favourite badge…fellow artist found it while walking in Venice and when saw my excitement gave it to me…I keep it as a great memory…When thinking “make love not war” I don’t only mean wars per se …very often people willingly or unwillingly upset each other with words…I wonder if the ones who upset feel better after…aren’t kinds words of praise and support much better?…last couple of weeks world is obsessed with discussions about who said what about whom…just like kitchen gossip in a bigger scale…come on…

Every child has a right to grow in peace…it is sad that lives of one might become victims of someone else’s politics…we hope and pray for peace in Azerbaijan and everywhere else in the world…although in ceasefire Azerbaijan again had victims this year…May they rest in peace...

I hope for a peaceful year 2011...

Lets get arty...II...Personal exhibition of Teymur Rustamov...

In Venice there was this slogan that said "I won't make boring art"...boring art? Does that happen? Can be boring for one, special for other...tastes differ as they say...In any case with contemporary art becoming more and more popular for many those who try to see or comprehend meaning hidden behind all! pieces of art things became more complicated...artists refuse to explain or explanations are even more confusing...I deal with this from the standpoint "I like it, I love it"...or "I don't really like it...I hate it"...often reading explanations do help and then I like going back and looking at piece again...Teymur says that his art speaks for itself...he doesn't like talking anyway...therefore prefers to exhibit his pieces and hopes that they would do the talking for him...or...his spouse :) In his exhibition "...yesterday, today, tomorrow..." that we opened on December 3 in State Art Museum in Baku and that will last until 31 December he presented to audience 20 sculptures, one interactive sculpture, two graphics and video art...I will post here couple of pictures (hope to update the website soon where we will have all pieces)...if you are in Baku take a break and visit the exhibition since venue, space, light, atmosphere all play a role...take children too so that they see that different grown-ups are engaged with different things and that they can also explore and find passion of their own...

Exhibition is open until 31 December...Baku, Azerbaijan...State Art Museum...11 Niyazi street...

"I will not make anymore boring art"...Venice...click on the picture to see it bigger...I posted this one so you also enjoy scene of Venice atmosphere...

"Modern" Buta by Teymur Rustamov...2010...Metal, copper, granite, glass 140x67x27 (cm) photo by Fakhriyya Mammadova Replica by Teymur Rustamov...2010...Bronze, granite 46x18x16 (cm)
Artist and piece looking at each other...they speak the same language you see

photo by Fakhriyya Mammadova

Openings are always crowded...ideally its good to socialize at the opening and then find time to come back and have time of your own with exhibits...

Lets get arty...

Time to write about food for soul... The question is where I begin from? Maybe I will have to write several posts on this subject let me start and see how it goes...

In 2007 when by a pure wish of heart and destiny my spouse Teymur Rustamov and I happened to be in Venice the trip coincided with Venice Biennale period...and it was the first time when Azerbaijan was taking part in Biennale as an independent country. While I was trying to get the flavour of Venice, Teymur who is a sculptor was trying to get the most of Biennale...we both knew that we wanted to go back to Venice, I wanted to have more walks in charming back streets of the place, Teymur wanted to see more Biennales (I loved the title of that Biennale which was “Think with the Senses-Feel with the Mind”)...These wishes went up to Universe :) and we came back and continued our lives...Teymur was busy with his art and then...he was chosen to be one of the artists to represent Azerbaijan in Venice Biennale in 2009. We were back in Venice...

Talking only about art part of the event it is about all latest trends in contemporary art and place to be for those who follow art closely. Since I am not an art critic I will stop here describing the Biennale. All I want to say that it is a great feeling to realise that your country is prosperous enough to participate in these feasts for soul and that its artists have peaceful minds and talent to be able to create and represent their art.

Teymur was participating with his multi-media installation “I TRUST” that, if I quote a curator of Azeri exposition in 2009 Leyla Akhundzada who is not with us unfortunately any longer and an art critic Teymur Daimi, “represents a projection of memory, consciousness and sub-consciousness of the author...” I don’t think I can actually describe the work...thus I will conclude here and post some pictures instead...You can see the installation in Azerbaijan State Art Museum next time you are in Baku. :)

We have just opened Teymur’s personal exhibition in Baku...following several posts would be devoted to art, exhibition and Teymur...

Season of olives...II...

Unfortunately due to time constraints (hate this argument by the way) I am not able to write about all seasonal fruits and vegetables in Azerbaijan but at least I have to mention the ones which my family is passionate about...meaning if saffron is my father’s passion then olives are passion of my father-in-law.

This year when I was helping to gather the harvest (not that I am a perfect tree climber but challenged myself as the best ones are of course at the very top) and was thinking what I am going to write about olives a thought came to my mind...Olive tree is not the best looking tree to my opinion...I was thinking that as if the tree is trying to get attention by not its looks but by its beautiful olives...(against the proverb that people meet others by their appearance not by their content if you know what I mean) also part of the tree that receives more sunshine offers bigger juicer olives...just like people longing for warm words trees also look for better and warmer sunshine...interesting...harvest always amazes me as a miracle of nature and makes me philosophical you see :) thus sharing with you...This year harvest was very good too and actually my father-in-law already prepared them for us and not only to enjoy and benefit. Grateful to him...and nature of course...

My earlier post on olives can be found here.

best ones at the top all very colourful and pretty best ones
shiny...aren't they beautiful... dropped the bucket when taking another photo, decided to photo this too before gathering olives back to the bucket :)

Art of cooking (if I may say :)...

Some readers might get shocked that many older people in Sheki continue to think that lamb is the healthiest meat and that the most delicious meals are prepared using melted butter. Let my granny rest in peace but she and her sisters would never have a second opinion about the above…

In the age when eating less is becoming more and more popular what you eat and how you eat meaning what goes well with what is very important in Azerbaijan…

Spoiled with numerous kinds of fresh and delicious fruits, vegetables and other, backed up by rich traditions and culture, prepared with kind hands and warm hearts of our grannies and mothers Azerbaijan can boast to have one of the best cuisines in the world…and yes, I am making this statement confidently.

Just as one example…Sheki has plov or (ash as we call it in Sheki) for each season (rice prepared in a way that I can’t really describe…rice that you can “hear” from far away thanks to saffron and magic used during preparation).

Today my post is devoted to a good friend Farida Sadikhova Buyuran who not only cherishes and appreciates Azeri cuisine but what is even more important conveys it to a wider audience via her colorful and wonderful website, AZ Cookbook – Food from Azerbaijan & Beyond, and soon to be published in USA cookbook. I respect passion she puts into her work and perfectionism and seriousness with which she approaches this task. I am sure her sunny and happy personality will shine through her book as it does now when we visit her website. I wish her good luck with publishing her book and many exciting projects in the future. Sending her our support from Baku I hope that she will get the same support in USA and everywhere else her book reaches. I have put the link to her website on this post but you can also find the link on the right side of this blog. Good luck to you, Farida!! The book will be a success I am sure.

Met via blogging we met in person in summer when Farida was visiting Azerbaijan.

First I wanted to edit the photo so that you could see only Farida and I but then I left the picture as it is :)

Sooo many things to talk about :)

What do I treat Farida to? No let me be honest here...what do I ask my mom to prepare for us? (I did the cake though :) Let's go traditional...let's have dolma (stuffed grape leaves). Dolma goes well with yogurt, melon or cucumber (go for Sheki white cucumber:) and summer salad.

Qurban Bayrami (Eid al-Adha) in Azerbaijan...

Azerbaijan is celebrating Qurban Bayrami (Eid al-Adha) this week. Most of people will be back to business only on Thursday this week.

Weather is very generous to us this week as well. Sun is shining brightly in many regions of the country. Leaves of the trees and waters of the Caspian shine so brightly.

Many families are spending their days together and enjoying the weather and each other's company.

Today many people also remember to be generous and share. Everyone who can afford slaughters sheep and shares meat with relatives, friends and most importantly with those in need.

We all pray and hope for peace and prosperity and thank for health, beauty, love, each other and for everything actually.

Sending you best wishes and lots of sun shine from Azerbaijan via below pictures, courtesy of good friend and talented photographer Tagi Jafarov.

Flag Day in Azerbaijan...

Always got amazed how flag is cherished in Turkey and the U.S. Maybe in other countries too of course...

Azeri flag was raised for the first time in 1918 when Democratic Republic of Azerbaijan was announced. Republic lasted for two years only. Since 1920 and until 80s the idea that Azerbaijan can't survive independently was slowly and surely sown into the minds and mentality of the nation...notions like pride and love for land, country, anthem, flag, language, each other were not only unpopular but almost forbidden...will never forget how I travelled to Turkey and saw flags on so many balconies and proud slogans everywhere in the city...I thought to myself «Wow, they are not shy to be patriotic and praise their country so proudly and openly»...travelled to the U.S. and saw how every child no matter where he/she comes from sings the anthem of their new country...pride for the country is taught from childhood...Fortunately nowadays more and more Azeris realize how lucky they are or we are to be from the country which is so rich in many ways be it natural resources, be it culture...and that we are the human resource of this country and the question is not «what Azerbaijan did for me?» but more «what I did for Azerbaijan?»...

Long live Azerbaijan! Long live its three color flag!

Season of crocus (saffron)...II

Now...its not only season of pomegranate but also saffron in Azerbaijan these days...This is one of the most popular subjects in our household too since my father has a big passion for saffron and as you know passions of parents create at minimum interest in their children too. Thanks to him who is never tired of spreading the knowledge accompanied with bulbs of saffron of course almost all our relatives and not only grow saffron in their gardens. He grows saffron in Baku and Sheki for pleasure and health and each season we all get fascinated with this the most gentle in looks and the most powerful in essence gift of nature.

Enough of words...let me share with you some photos. First I want to show you the photo that I took in my uncle’s garden in Sheki...this photo was taken sometime in September when there were no saffron flowers yet but even getting ready for its flowers it already looked beautiful...(see green at the background...)

I am thanking my cousin, Fatima Giyasli, who sent me below photos from Sheki...taken in the same garden...when saffron got ready and when they started picking it day by day...flower by flower...

everything is perfect about saffron...

picking flower by flower...

stamen by stamen...

Enjoy the season :)

Everything about pomegranate...

If figs and grapes are associated in Azerbaijan with its Absheron peninsular with tomatoes particularly with its village of Zira, saffron with village of Mashtaga, apples with another region of Azerbaijan Guba, nuts with Gabala, lemon with Lenkoran, white cucumber and white cornelian cherry with Sheki, potatoes with Gedebey, then when we see pomegranates we want them to come from Goychay. Since Goychay pomegranates with rich in colour and taste seeds are simply the best :).

Pomegranate season is taking off in Azerbaijan at the moment and all the markets are full of sweet and sour sorts of this fruit. Just like recognizing the most delicious melon or watermelon considers to be a task and challenge everyone here tries to master knowing which pomegranate to choose from all the ones which are offered (and said to be coming from Goychay :) in the bazaar is equally important. Good pomegranate would show in its skin...it would be ready to be cut...Grandparents and parents carry kilos of pomegranate to their loved ones. In addition to being served as fruit pomegranate is used in preparation and design of many dishes such as cabbage dolma, fish, gutab and many others. Pomegranate juice is good for renewing of blood (as we say here), immune system etc etc. People with diarrhea would boil pomegranate skin and drink the water...and get well of course.

In addition to all above pomegranate bears a philosophical meaning as well (this is East and everything has a philosophical background and meaning to it :). If I am not mistaken pomegranate is a fruit of wisdom. Fresco miniatures on walls of Sheki Khan Palace have pomegranate in many scenes. I couldn't find in my archive better photo than below one where you can see pomegranate tree painted on the wall of one of the rooms. You would need to visit the Palace to hear from museum hostess what meaning was given to pomegranate by our ancestors...

Please take a second and see my earlier posts here and here on pomegranate with pictures of trees in blossom...

Enjoy the season :)

Sheki Khan Palace with tales to tell...

Generous nature...

40,000 and even more visitors...

Looking back now to 2007 and trying to recall what I did during last three years in addition to making a career and having if any :) personal input to daily life of Universe :) (and if I don't mention family life) then writing this blog is one of the best things that I have been doing...

Sometimes though I am thinking to myself if this is really important, necessary, useful...writing about Sheki, writing about Azerbaijan, educating, informing, promoting, marketing, presenting Azerbaijan. So what that some people would at last hear or would know better about our "land of fire". Does this change anything? Does this make anything better? Anything better for and in Azerbaijan?

Classic and traditional Azeri person/family wouldn't praise himself/itself...he/it would wait for others to do so...I guess this applies to the whole country as well..there is a saying in Russian "скромность украшает человека" what translates as "modesty speaks highly of a person..."But isn't modern world all about presentation skills and information? Don't we study how to "sell" ourselves? How do I explain to a teenager from Sheki that she should speak louder and clearer and not blush as there are not many mature people that would recognize and care to notice capabilities hidden within...that if she can't articulate herself someone might/would do that for her and that presentation can be quite far from reality...somehow I can say the same about Azerbaijan...

Thus although maybe not much can change for/in Azerbaijan by information that I try putting on internet I hope to achieve even though partially at least one goal...that is that information would be accurate...who would do it better than local :) (word used to identify Azeris living in Azerbaijan comparing to foreigners that are temporarily in the country (the same word must be used in other places too :))

Today with this post I am thanking my all 40,000 (and even more by now) visitors who cared to visit, read and even comment on the posts. Are 40,000 many? Well if I compare to 6 billion :) but then I am writing in English...and also if I look around and see ten people and each and every is a unique individual...so I think 40,000 and more is good! :)

Thank you and see you! :)

this picture of another special place of Azerbaijan called Khinalig could be more convincing than words :) Courtesy of Asim Talib.

Summer will have to say good bye...

Septembers and very often Octobers are still quite warm in Azerbaijan...especially in Baku... Surrounded by mountains thats not always the case for Sheki but still many days are sunny and warm...But starting mid September there are more and more days with rain and wind and inevitably summer is replaced by autumn...by mild autumn though...by "velvet" season as we call it that is very pleasant after humid and hot summer..."velvet" season is when you still wear light cloths but you better have scarf with you in case weather decides to change its mind...we don't know how long this would last and every sunny day is accepted with joy and gratitude...

Today I want to share with you the photo I took on our boulevard...this sailing boat looked as cozy to me as cashmere weather of velvet season...it kind of conveys my today's mood of already anticipating relaxing weekend with hopefully good weather...

Be well...

20 September - oil workers day in Azerbaijan…

As a foreword let me start with telling that there have been cases when people that have never been and vaguely heard about Azerbaijan would ask questions like…“is that true that once one lands in Azerbaijan he/she smells oil right away?”…or “does oil really run down the streets in Baku?”…what to answer to questions like this? Just “no” or maybe it would be more fun to answer “yes” :)

A year or so ago I came across a modern art exposition of one of foreign artists who gathered the spills of oil in suburbs of Baku in her show room and made a story and exposition around this theme…I must confess that the smell in the room was the smell I knew and it was a very “native” smell :)

But let me mention in this post today that I am not sure about the smell one feels landing in Baku since I am used to it and won't be able to comment and also no, the oil does not run down the streets in Baku and never did.

Caspian suffers from pollution (just in case if you never heard before Caspian happens to be the biggest lake in the world) and some suburbs of Baku are still polluted too…But as I mentioned before things come in a “package”; thus oil comes with smell and radiation but transforms into strategic product and wealth....

Going back to oil workers day...People that are involved in production exploration exploitation etc and turning oil into strategic product are the assets of the industry and not only. I want to mention my father, Nadir Qiyasov, who is not only knowledgeable and experienced geophysicist but I would say talented professional who seems to know every inch of Absheron peninsula. He got his initial education in Oil Academy in Azerbaijan and he and his fellow students are/unfortunately by now many of them were precious assets of the industry and the country overall.

My post today is devoted to my dear father and to all oil workers of Azerbaijan who turn oil (definition of oil in Wikipedia - naturally occurring, toxic, flammable liquid consisting of a complex mixture of hydrocarbons of various molecular weights, and other organic compounds, that are found in geologic formations beneath the Earth's surface) to black gold and well-being of their country and people…

this is how oil exploration looked in early XX century...

late XX and early XXI century...

Things that make me smile...

Once in an airport in Italy we approached one desk which had a sign “will be back soon”…Of course we were not quite sure what “soon” meant exactly for the person who left the sign…we made a joke that if this sign were in Germany most probably the person would mention in how many minutes he/she plans to be back but since we were in Italy “soon” was good enough :) besides Azeris have quite a philosophical approach to notion of time anyway :)

Yesterday when I was driving home on one turn there was something like a sign seeing which it was more or less clear that there were construction works going on and I should choose another road…but no…I still decided to try…why? a) maybe they just forgot the sign there, b) maybe there is still some naaarrow road that I could use, c) maybe workers would agree to move their truck for a second :) so that I pass (last time this worked). So I drove and saw that it was not the case the road was completely closed. Behind and in front of my car there were many other cars with drivers who for above or some other reasons also ignored the signs and had to turn back now…You see…Does something like this happen in other places? Or people are so organized that they wouldn’t look for “just in case” opportunities and obey to the signs? Not the case here :) They should have made it impossible to drive in…making clear that they mean it! :)

Often I hear people around me complaining that this is Azerbaijan and everything is possible here (mainly accentuating the negative of course). But I think we shouldn’t ignore the facts that this is a) south b) crossroad of east and west c) country with complex history that left its impact on generations…and everything comes in a “package” you see :) I think you would agree that mentality, behavioral patterns and way of thinking is different if you compare south to north, east to west, big country to smaller country etc etc etc…we are all very similar and different in many ways and all unique and fun :)

Below photo I took in one of the parks outside Baku…I guess these are shoes of the gardener or some other worker (very neatly paired)…most probably he has different shoes that he is wearing on tiles (not to dirty them) and while taking care of trees etc…but he did not bother to take them with him but left there to come back later (quite typical too I would say) :) the scene made me smile and I thought I’d share it with you…Photo is called “I’ll be back”...hope it makes you smile too :)

Be well…

Sky and not only...

When driving to or from Sheki one can witness how climate zones substitute each other…it happens mildly naturally and very beautifully…if Baku area is a desert by nature (maybe nature played a little irony when creating areas like Baku and its suburbs…desert on its outside if I may say but so rich with natural resources in its depths...) starting from Shamakhi nature becomes greener then turns into rich forests of Ismailli and then there are Oguz, Gabala and Sheki competing to offer fresh air, tranquility and natural food products for people escaping the capital. Somewhere between Shamakhi and Ismailli we always make a last stop to enjoy air before driving in to industrious Baku. Unfortunately I didn’t take photos of beautiful forests that are getting ready for autumn but when we were closer to Baku and there were less and less trees I noticed that sky was very fascinating...it got me inspired to write this post, make some photos to share with you (excuse me for the quality I took the photos on my phone from the car window with my younger son sleeping on my lap:) and think to myself goodbye peaceful and lovely Sheki and hello hectic and ambitious Baku...

too big to capture on camera...

no matter how many photos I took it didn't seem enough to convey the beauty...

Ramadan...

Wishing you happy Ramadan from Sheki...photo a courtesy of Hema K...

Where is the best place to be for Ramadan holiday? Guess my reply would be..."yes, Sheki :))"...But honestly if you happen to be in Sheki for Ramadan holiday you would definitely get the spirit of the holiday. This year we are lucky to have a long weekend for Ramadan what means that many people could travel...including I (thus writing this post in Sheki :)...

I was not fasting but my parents were...Days in August are very long and it was amazing to see them and many other people not drinking and eating from early morning until around nine in the evening...and getting together for breaking the fast is always a great experience...(even though I wasn't fasting it is a great time to share)...

Tradition says that on Ramadan holiday everyone should help the poor ones, visit close relatives of those who lost their dear ones during that year...visit cemeteries and remember the ones that are not with us...and visit and wish happy Ramadan to all elderly and not only relatives and friends that have been fasting...Since we are in Sheki on our way to my uncle's house we saw many people that were on their way to visit someone else...here and there you would hear people wishing happy Ramadan to each other and my uncle tried to stay at home most of the day today since so many people are coming to visit...he in his turn together with my father went to congratulate their aunt who is one of the oldest in the family...last and not the least traditional bakery is made and shared with everyone who visits...great time to be together :)

Happy Ramadan and all the very best from Azerbaijan...:)

P.S. My earlier posts on Ramadan can be found here and here.

Expecting guests...

Traditional Ramadan sweet bakery (ovma)...

Traditional Ramadan kind of porridge (yayma) to everyone who comes...